Alternator bracket help- Broken bolt🥺 (1 Viewer)

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Aug 10, 2021
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Dallas
My Cruiser is a 1999. I got it at auction few weeks back knowing it needed alternator, starter and radiator.

I’ve been stumped with trying to remove broke bolt from the lower alternator bracket hole. I drilled it out enough to try using a extractor tool.. it also broke off in the hole! I’ve got several hours in on this an im getting nowhere.
My question.. is the bracket replaceable or is it part of the block? It’s hard to tell..
Also any suggestions for clearing the hole would be nice.
Thanks Ed

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Grind it down flat, use a cobalt drill bit to drill a hole through it, then find a long bolt and matching nut to secure the alternator in after.
 
What has worked for me before is to find a nut with a inside hole diameter of similar size as the bolt shaft that is stuck. Place on top of the broken bolt and weld in the nut hole till it is full and ensuring weld connects with broken shaft. Let it cool. Then use a socket wrench to turn it out.
 
Grind it down flat, use a cobalt drill bit to drill a hole through it, then find a long bolt and matching nut to secure the alternator in after.
Thanks. I did in fact grind it down smooth but didn’t get a pic of it. I’ll try a kobalt.. I’ve broken 3 titanium bits at this point trying to drill thru. The extractor bits that broke off in there are hard steel. Sucks..
 
Titanium bits aren't gonna do it, i used cobalt milwaukee bits and it chewed through anything. Start out small to get a pilot hole and progress up, you got room to stick a drill in there and get at it i assume? If you're lucky maybe the more you drill the looser the bolt will get and push it right through the other side.
 
When you drilled the hole in the bolt...did you drill it all the way through? In other words there is a hole in the backside of the bolt?

IF so, I've used a 'C-Clamp' before to push a stuck 'spiral' extractor out of the bolt. By inserting a small piece of cut off drill bit in the back side and small socket on the front side....I was able to push the extractor enough for it to lose it's bite. Only has to move a small amount to break free. If you didn't drill all the way through, please disregard.

If the cobalt drill doesn't work for you and you don't feel like spending a couple of hours with a diamond burr, it might be worth a try if there is space to do it.
 
Titanium bits aren't gonna do it, i used cobalt milwaukee bits and it chewed through anything. Start out small to get a pilot hole and progress up, you got room to stick a drill in there and get at it i assume? If you're lucky maybe the more you drill the looser the bolt will get and push it right through the other side.
Yes, I have enough room. I broke 3 Milwaukee bits but I’ll pick up some Kobalt and update. Thanks so much
 
What has worked for me before is to find a nut with a inside hole diameter of similar size as the bolt shaft that is stuck. Place on top of the broken bolt and weld in the nut hole till it is full and ensuring weld connects with broken shaft. Let it cool. Then use a socket wrench to turn it out.
Works all the time. I tried to use easy outs and never worked well. Broke a couple. Never gone back.
 
This is a minor issue, don't sweat it, get the right drill bit and bore a hole through, you're lucky it's in a free spot down low, and the bracket is a pass through bracket, imagine this is broken inside a bracket that doesn't pass through like this and in a tighter spot. Get some grade 8 bolt or higher and secure it and call it a day, something like this

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Yes, I have enough room. I broke 3 Milwaukee bits but I’ll pick up some Kobalt and update. Thanks so much

Just in case there's any confusion, it sounds like you're talking about the brand Kobalt whereas @FxFormat seems to be referring to cobalt coated bits. Kobalt branded titanium bits will break just like the Milwaukees.
 
Ok so I’m not an expert but I’ve always made a living fixing and making things. The two most important things are 1) wear glasses. Never take them off. As you use increasingly harder tools they are generally more brittle and small little flakes can pepper your face when they break. 2) If you got the time take all the time in the world. Soak it every 8 hours for 2-3 days with a penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster are my faves) alternate localized heat/cooling. Tap it a lot with a small hammer and punch to try to induce shock, etc.



Outside of that perhaps consider ordering a quality centering bit. It’s what machinist use to start holes on center. Also a quality left handed drill but. Either solid HSS, solid Colbolt (not the brand), or solid carbide. Welding nuts, etc as suggested is tried and true if you have access to that. If you can turn the threaded female hole to a male stud of the right diameter go that route. If all else fails can you take that part off and to a machinist? I imagine removing the radiator might be worth the added access at this point?
 
Also. The one last extractor worth trying is the splined type. These have straight splines that are driven into a through hole of a specific size. I’ve never seen an affordable set but they tend to work better than easy out/spiral style for me.
 
I had the exact same thing happen. I drilled through the bolt and ended up snapping my extractor as well…. My heart dropped as I felt it break. But after what felt like hours (and probably was) I ended up drilling through that and put in a bolt with a lock washer on the other end. A VERY tight fit for it, but you have a little space in front of the AC lines (I think they are) to get the nut in there.

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