Almost done on my complete build/restoration - Had to pull 2H engine out - Need Advice

[duncanrm]

I guess what I told my friend the other day "I don't want this vehicle to be the thoroughbred racing horse, I want it to be the stubborn mule that may not get there fast, but will carry my equipment and never stop going".

That is a nice setup on the injection pump. I will probably make something similar. How does it feel? Does it feel solid when you push/pull it?

The cable feels good.. it becomes second nature after a while.. there is three drawbacks of moving to a cable that you need to be aware of:

1. You lose the overfuelling position on "START".. no big deal, I've never needed it. My 2H fires up easily in all weather
2. The 2H is capable of running backwards.. if you stall the 2H in a forward gear and then roll backwards with the clutch out your engine can start in reverse.. potentially setting your air filter on fire. Its never happened to me, as with all competent manual drivers as soon as a stall occurs I'm onto the clutch and brake simultaneously.. but do keep it in mind
3. You lose the EDIC Low Oil Pressure Shut-off function. I've repurposed the original Oil Pressure Switch that used to feed the EDIC to make it drive a loud buzzer in my cab.. just as good.

I like your mule analogy.

 

[vincent85]

The cable feels good.. it becomes second nature after a while.. there is three drawbacks of moving to a cable that you need to be aware of:

1. You lose the overfuelling position on "START".. no big deal, I've never needed it. My 2H fires up easily in all weather
2. The 2H is capable of running backwards.. if you stall the 2H in a forward gear and then roll backwards with the clutch out your engine can start in reverse.. potentially setting your air filter on fire. Its never happened to me, as with all competent manual drivers as soon as a stall occurs I'm onto the clutch and brake simultaneously.. but do keep it in mind
3. You lose the EDIC Low Oil Pressure Shut-off function. I've repurposed the original Oil Pressure Switch that used to feed the EDIC to make it drive a loud buzzer in my cab.. just as good.

I like your mule analogy.

Sounds good to me, as long as you are a experienced and aware driver. If I ever started to roll down a hill, my first instinct would be to push in the clutch and or brake anyways. I don't really see this being a issue unless you are not experienced, or not maintaining situational awareness.

On a side note, when it starts rolling how long would it take for the vehicle to engage backwards and be catastrophic do you think? I am trying to set a benchmark in my mind.

 

[duncanrm]

On a side note, when it starts rolling how long would it take for the vehicle to engage backwards and be catastrophic do you think? I am trying to set a benchmark in my mind.

It wouldnt take much at all.. it would have to be quite a steep hill as well I suspect.

You sound like you react to a stall exactly the same as me.. I dont think its ever going to be an issue for you.

 

[chappohj47]

I would probably get the motor running and drive it for a while before putting the turbo on it too just incase some thing happens

 

[ozcrusier]

I would get the injection pump checked with injectors because it needs to be set up right for the turbo plus it will help with fuel consumption with your planned trips.

 

[vincent85]

I would get the injection pump checked with injectors because it needs to be set up right for the turbo plus it will help with fuel consumption with your planned trips.

You hit the nail on the head, but my question is what people say setup the injectors/pump for the turbo, what are they talking about. What adjustments to the injectors/pump can I even do? All I can do to the injectors is clean them out and makes sure they are delivering equal fuel to each cylinder, but the pump I can adjust the fuel correct? Is that what you are speaking of?

 

[vincent85]

Not really.. not without dissasembling.. and thats a very specialised task. If the engine was running prior to this project it should be clean enough inside.




The fuel delivery of most diesels is controlled by a cable to the injection pump.. the 2H is a bit different. The 2H has a butterfly in its intake manifold, and a vacuum hose either side of this butterfly runs down to the injection pump. The vacuum differential between these two hoses is used to control the fuel delivery.. the vacuum differential acts on a round leather diapragm that is connected to the Fuel Rack.. the diaphragm pulls the fuel rack, a spring allows it to return.

• High vacuum differential between the two hoses (throttle butterfly closed) - the rack is drawn back to the minimum fuel delivery position
• Low vacuum differential between the two hoses (throttle butterfly wide open) - the rack is pushed back by a spring to the maximum fuel delivery position

This leather diaphragm is known to rupture and your fuel delivery doesnt work correctly.. Google "2H diaphragm replacement" there's lots of references and threads on how to do it..

It looks like this:

You said replace the diaphragm which I agree, but after thinking about it, with the added pressure with the turbo will these "leather diaphragms" be okay? Will this be a issue? Do I need to reroute the vacuum lines going to the injection pump in any way, because of the turbo?

 

[RufusTheDufus]

... with the added pressure with the turbo will these "leather diaphragms" be okay? Will this be a issue? Do I need to reroute the vacuum lines going to the injection pump in any way, because of the turbo?

The diaphragm is a differential pressure sensing device. It detects very minor differences in pressure at the throttle plate. It's a load sensing mechanism that directly modifies the position of the fuel rack in the pump. It will be fine. The pressure from the turbo works on both sides of the diaphragm at the same time, i.e. almost neutral difference. It's not like you're airing up a tire. Don't change the routing of the vacuum lines because of the turbo. Do put good hose clamps on them at both ends.

There's nothing inside the injection pump that you can service at home in your garage other than the diaphragm.

You asked about setting up the pump/injectors for a turbo. This is not something you can do yourself. An injection pump shop can change the fuel delivery rate and/or pressure delivered by the injection pump to make use of the extra air your turbo is force feeding the engine. Setting the injector's opening pressure to match the pump delivery rate is a good idea.

The inline pump on the 2H doesn't have the ability to do boost enrichment. (or boost compensation, i.e. more fuel on boost vs. off.) So anything an injection shop will do for a "turbo setup" will be a compromise to get you the best fuel efficiency and performance. Or they could go to the performance end of the spectrum if you want. Just be sure you're clear with them.

 

[ozcrusier]

Vincent best to get it looked at by a professional IP outfit if you want reliability and fuel consumption. As above it's not cheap my 1hdt pump was $1800 after it started leaking fuel.

 

[handcannon]

The diaphragm is a differential pressure sensing device. It detects very minor differences in pressure at the throttle plate. It's a load sensing mechanism that directly modifies the position of the fuel rack in the pump. It will be fine. The pressure from the turbo works on both sides of the diaphragm at the same time, i.e. almost neutral difference. It's not like you're airing up a tire. Don't change the routing of the vacuum lines because of the turbo. Do put good hose clamps on them at both ends.

This is a slight hijack as it isn't about Toyota. Instead it's Nissan, a Nissan SD-22 to be exact. The SD-22 is a 2.2 liter four cylinder diesel motor that was imported into the states for a very short time, 1981 to 1983 I think. It uses the exact same type of diaphragm/pressure compensation to operate the rack in the inline IP. Although Nissan uses a different name, it has an EDIC system also. I picked up a 1981 SD-22 to put into a 1973 Datsun 620 series pickup.

My question deals with turbocharging this type of system. I have not decided for sure I want to turbo it, but am getting all the info I can anyway. So far all info says that the SD-22 is not turbo friendly because of the diaphragm/pressure compensation operation of the IP. Since Toyota used this system for several different diesel motors I'm interested in how turbos were successfully added aftermarket to them.

I have searched this section of Mud, to no avail, on how this type of system has been successfully turboed and have come up with nothing. Since you alluded to turboing a 2H I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction for this info, links, web sites, etc. I not looking for this thread to be hijacked, just links, or whatever, PM'ed to me.

Thank you.
Don