Alignment help

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J

Jrod

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Threads
74
Messages
415
Location
Eagle, ID
I just installed Toyo at 2 tires in 275/70/18 and had the truck aligned. The passenger front tire is rubbing before I even hit full lock. I have an ironman lift and wasn't expecting rubbing.

The passenger front tire sits more rearward in the wheel well than the driver side - can this be fixed? Did they mess up the alignment?

There is no rub on the driver side.
 
That would be a caster adjustment. And I'm unaware of adjusting that aside from new uca or adjusting the height. Im not positive though....
 
Bump - alright, I know there are some folks on this board who can help me out.

Backstory:

I bought a set of 18" tundra wheels to install when my old tires wore out. After much research I determined that 275/70/18 was the safest size (fitment wise) to run in a 33" tire. I also installed 1.25 inch spacers to get some track width back and give it a better look ( I know my scrub radius decreased). Now I can't figure out why I'm running into clearance problems with the back side of the fender liner on the passenger side front wheel. Even when I removed the spacer I'm just barely clearing the fender liner. With any compression the tire will definitely make contact.

My caster was set at 1.7 on the passenger side, but it looks like the front wheel is sitting much more rearward than the driver side. When adjusting the caster eccentric the wheel should move fore/aft, correct? I don't know what it looks like when the eccentric is maxed out, can someone help? Here is a picture of the minimal clearance I have with the spacer removed.

Thanks guys!

photo.webp
 
The caster adjustment will move the wheel fore and aft slightly because the adjustment is made by changing the position of the upper control arm mounts. Is the camber OK?

I had mine aligned yesterday and my shop listed the caster specs as Min: 1.75 deg, Max: 3.25 deg.
They set mine at 2.40 (L) and 2.61 (R) (I am using aftermarket arms). It would seem that in your case more caster as the book suggests would make it worse. Seems odd for sure.
 
My camber is right about zero both sides, as is toe.
Good luck with it.
 
i am looking for some help on a related issue but can shed some light on this for you from a practical point of view. i fitted some 33" by 12.5 inch micky Thompsons to my land cruiser & they rubed there before & after the wheel alignment was done. if you remove the plastic inner guard you can bend the spot welded panel that the plastic protects flat & outwards against the arch. use some fish oil & underseal to protect & waterproof the new bend in the metal. then you can also use gentle heat like a paint striping heat gun to carefully re shape the plastic to match the modified panel underneath. this will give you a factory look to your small modfication.

Good luck.
 
I run as much negative camber as I can, with the OEM spec toe. With rigs that have this much body roll and over sized tires, when you go into a corner with positive camber the tire rolls onto the outside contact patch. The outside tire (with the majority of the weight) is going to be riding on the outer portion of the tread. This will cause a lot of understeer. With negative camber the outside tire rolls will roll and you will have 100% contact patch on the outside tire with the inside tire pulling in the direction you want to go in.

Just a thought, when you take your truck to a alignment shop and they put positive camber on it. There is a trade off with negative camber on these trucks, the tires bite much better and can increase the chance of a roll over, rather than the front end pushing, the front end grabs. It's very nice on twisty roads and daily driving. It also helps tire wear, assuming your toe/camber is set up correctly.
 
Nick can you post up the specs you are running?
 
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