AHC with LC suspension-how is the ride?

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superdawg

superdawg

10 Year
Joined
Feb 27, 2014
Threads
17
Messages
114
I have a stock 2000 LX470 with 182k on it. I am the second owner. I recently bled the AHC fluid and added 4 turns to the front torsion bars. The ride is much improved. I am waiting on the delivery of the Techstream software to fine tune the suspension.

After bleeding the fluid, I was in such a hurry to test drive the LX I backed into my truck in the driveway.....At least it was minor damage *&^%%$! to the truck. The LX came out unscathed.

I am interested in putting in stock LC torsion bars and coils and keeping the AHC. I want the higher ride height as normal (high mode for a stock LC) but I don't want the ACH riding on high all the time. I have looked at several threads of persons that have done this and they seem to be carrying substantial weight (bumpers/spare tires/camping boxesover a stock LX.

I have read the AHC in the Nuetral position carries about 40% of the weight and the torsion bars/coils carry 60%. If I install LC bars and coils they will carry 100% of the weight. In that situation, with a stock LX and no aftermarket gear, will the AHC make the ride rough? If that is the case, is there a way to soften the AHC without adding extra weight?

Riding at the high position all the time would probably need a Slee dif drop. I am running 265/70/17 tires. I wish I would have bought the 285s.......
 
Have you looked at the slee AHC override module? Even if you install heavier tb's and springs, you will have to adjust the height sensors or install the slee override, if you want to achieve lift and keep the ahc operating normal. Do you plan on hauling additional weight often?
 
TXLX100 said:
Have you looked at the slee AHC override module? Even if you install heavier tb's and springs, you will have to adjust the height sensors or install the slee override, if you want to achieve lift and keep the ahc operating normal. Do you plan on hauling additional weight often?
Click to expand...

Hauling additional weight will not happen often. This is my wife's rig and is "Soccer mom, swim mom and Mall Rated". Occasional trip to the snow and a dirt road here or there. What I want is the smooth AHC ride and a 2" or so lift. If I had the ability to raise it another 1.7" temporarily by flipping a switch, that would be great.

QUOTE: You should read this thread on lifting the normal height of a AHC rig.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ahc-sensor-adjustment-for-lift.60848/
It is my understanding all you would be doing by swapping the TB and coils would be lightening the load on the AHC even further out of spec.

I agree.

What I don't want is to ride all the time on the high mode, raise the neutral pressures too high and shorten the life of the globes.

I think there probably is a combo of the right torsion bar adjustment and right coil/trim packer that would net a 2" lift and the right neutral pressures on the globes. Trial and error + Techstream = good ride?
 
superdawg said:
I agree.

What I don't want is to ride all the time on the high mode, raise the neutral pressures too high and shorten the life of the globes.

I think there probably is a combo of the right torsion bar adjustment and right coil/trim packer that would net a 2" lift and the right neutral pressures on the globes. Trial and error + Techstream = good ride?
Click to expand...

Note: I'm no expert, just been doing a ton of research since picking up my LX...
I believe you're on the right track. But the one thing that threw me in your original post was "I am interested in putting in stock LC torsion bars and coils and keeping the AHC." The stock TB and coils in our LX's (or AHC LC's) are significantly softer than a stock (non-AHC) LC. I've read on here that the LX won't even support it's own weight on just the TBs and coils. So my concern/thought would be with essentially a non-AHC LC suspension PLUS AHC shocks you'd end up with a barely-functional AHC and poor suspension performance otherwise.
I think adjusting the position of your AHC sensors will accomplish what you want without changing the torsion bars or coils.
 
Anyway you do it (slee override or adjusting sensors), the AHC "shocks" will be extending. For all intents and purposes, you will be running it in high mode all the time. If you want to keep the pressures down while driving in high mode all the time and not adding a bunch or weight, I think a mix of cranking the LX torsion bars and perhaps slightly stiffer springs or a spacer in the rear plus and alignment.

If you want to keep the AHC ride quality, achieve lift, and not hauling a lot of weight.... Why not just go with 33's and the slew override? Then you can ride in normal mode and be comfortable and flip a switch when you need the lift. Not the "cool" full time lift but may meet your needs and wants.
 
MontanaLax said:
Note: I'm no expert, just been doing a ton of research since picking up my LX...
I believe you're on the right track. But the one thing that threw me in your original post was "I am interested in putting in stock LC torsion bars and coils and keeping the AHC." The stock TB and coils in our LX's (or AHC LC's) are significantly softer than a stock (non-AHC) LC. I've read on here that the LX won't even support it's own weight on just the TBs and coils. So my concern/thought would be with essentially a non-AHC LC suspension PLUS AHC shocks you'd end up with a barely-functional AHC and poor suspension performance otherwise.
I think adjusting the position of your AHC sensors will accomplish what you want without changing the torsion bars or coils.
Click to expand...

I was originally thinking the the LC suspension would do all the work of supporting the vehicle and if the AHC fizzled out big time, I would only have to add regular shocks to get to standard suspension. Less expensive in the long run.
 
TXLX100 said:
Anyway you do it (slee override or adjusting sensors), the AHC "shocks" will be extending. For all intents and purposes, you will be running it in high mode all the time. If you want to keep the pressures down while driving in high mode all the time and not adding a bunch or weight, I think a mix of cranking the LX torsion bars and perhaps slightly stiffer springs or a spacer in the rear plus and alignment.

If you want to keep the AHC ride quality, achieve lift, and not hauling a lot of weight.... Why not just go with 33's and the slew override? Then you can ride in normal mode and be comfortable and flip a switch when you need the lift. Not the "cool" full time lift but may meet your needs and wants.
Click to expand...

I like the idea of 33s but I just bought a set of 265s (31.7") recently :(

I think I could try playing with the front LX torsion bars and maybe a 30mm trim packer in the rear coils would be cost effective and keep me occupied for a short time. I am interested in how close I could keep the neutral pressures in spec with that setup.

thanks all for the advice and ideas.

Tom
 
I have a 2000 LX w/140k on the clock. I am in a similar boat, system is functioning fine right now, but old springs have my neutral pressures out of whack. I have considered new springs or spacers, but I really just want to get something simple and reliable in the long term in there so I have decided to convert to standard springs and shocks, not have to worry about it again. I'll keep you posted on how I like the results once I get it in.


...via IH8MUD app
 
Replace the springs, and crank the t-bars to get back to neutral pressures. That's a cheap intermediate step to reduce the work done by the system. New rear OEM springs for the AHC system are $70 ea.
 
super90 said:
Replace the springs, and crank the t-bars to get back to neutral pressures. That's a cheap intermediate step to reduce the work done by the system. New rear OEM springs for the AHC system are $70 ea.
Click to expand...

I like the look of the 1.5 OME lift but am concerned the wife may revolt if I take the AHC ride away. I have read it is fairly stiff/sporty if you are without add on bumpers/etc. For now, I will try to get a 1.5" lift from tweaking the torsion bars.

For the rear OEM coils, that looks like that is a price from Amayama. Any other more local (not UAE) sources that are close to that price? I may try those and later add a coil spacer if I need to.

Keep the ideas coming. I do appreciate it.
 
I have the 1.5" OME on my other truck and it's fine. Just don't get the super stiff shocks.

Rear Oem AHC springs can be bought for that price from any of our favorite folks that give discounts. In my case I just happened to purchase through Toyota of Dallas.
 
super90 said:
I have the 1.5" OME on my other truck and it's fine. Just don't get the super stiff shocks.

Rear Oem AHC springs can be bought for that price from any of our favorite folks that give discounts. In my case I just happened to purchase through Toyota of Dallas.
Click to expand...

Robert,

That is good to hear about the 1.5 OME. Any recommendations on softer shocks should I go that route?
 
superdawg said:
I like the look of the 1.5 OME lift but am concerned the wife may revolt if I take the AHC ride away. I have read it is fairly stiff/sporty if you are without add on bumpers/etc. For now, I will try to get a 1.5" lift from tweaking the torsion bars.

For the rear OEM coils, that looks like that is a price from Amayama. Any other more local (not UAE) sources that are close to that price? I may try those and later add a coil spacer if I need to.

Keep the ideas coming. I do appreciate it.
Click to expand...

I really encourage you to read all the posts you can about AHC lift. Maybe you already understand this and just misspoke in this highlighted quote above...but with AHC, the ride height is not accomplished by spring height and/or stiffer spring; it is set via the the sensor position. The sensor tells the suspension what level it should be at and the hydraulics put it at that level. You then adjust springs(crank torsion bars, new rear springs/spacers) to get your neutral pressures in line. The only way your going to get a lift via spring is the scenario of non AHC springs/torsion bars on your stock weight AHC cruiser...then you could see a bit of a lift from the springs...but that's only because the system can't manage to get down to the specified height because the springs are supporting too much weight...and the suspension performance will suffer. I personally don't know how bad it will be, but from what I've read, you definitely won't be able to go down to Low anymore and I can't see how it would work well.

So, from what I have researched your options are...
1. Ditch AHC and go to traditional lift.
2. Adjust height sensors for a slight lift and adjust torsion bars/add spring spacer to bring neutral pressures back in line. You will definitely get much closer to proper numbers with stock AHC bars/springs than with non-AHC bars/springs unless you are carrying extra weight...in that case it seems the stock non-AHC springs/bars work well...although I haven't actually seen techstream numbers...
3. Buy Slee override...and run in high all the time. Still need to adjust springs/bars as above to get neutral pressure in line.
4. Forget the coolness factor and stick to stock height...if you do tweak height, keep it to a minimum. Besides that "coolness factor" there is absolutely no reason to have your vehicle lifted with your tire size. The main reason for a lift on any vehicle is to clear larger tires...since 33s fit with no lift, unless you're planning on 35s the only real reason is additional breakover angle/belly clearance. Since you have that clearance at the push of a button with AHC, it again just becomes an "I like the way it looks" thing. So if you can get beyond, that , best choice becomes to just worry about getting your neutral pressures in line an having your AHC perform as well as possible.

As always, just my humble opinion. It's your vehicle and you should do to it whatever makes you happy....
 
super90 said:
I have the 1.5" OME on my other truck and it's fine. Just don't get the super stiff shocks.

Rear Oem AHC springs can be bought for that price from any of our favorite folks that give discounts. In my case I just happened to purchase through Toyota of Dallas.
Click to expand...

I didn't realize that the springs could be bought that cheap. I had Internet searched for them and not found anything, I assumed that they would be as expensive as the non AHC springs. I may just have to call toyota of Dallas...


...via IH8MUD app
 
codertimt said:
I really encourage you to read all the posts you can about AHC lift. Maybe you already understand this and just misspoke in this highlighted quote above...but with AHC, the ride height is not accomplished by spring height and/or stiffer spring; it is set via the the sensor position. The sensor tells the suspension what level it should be at and the hydraulics put it at that level. You then adjust springs(crank torsion bars, new rear springs/spacers) to get your neutral pressures in line. The only way your going to get a lift via spring is the scenario of non AHC springs/torsion bars on your stock weight AHC cruiser...then you could see a bit of a lift from the springs...but that's only because the system can't manage to get down to the specified height because the springs are supporting too much weight...and the suspension performance will suffer. I personally don't know how bad it will be, but from what I've read, you definitely won't be able to go down to Low anymore and I can't see how it would work well.

So, from what I have researched your options are...
1. Ditch AHC and go to traditional lift.
2. Adjust height sensors for a slight lift and adjust torsion bars/add spring spacer to bring neutral pressures back in line. You will definitely get much closer to proper numbers with stock AHC bars/springs than with non-AHC bars/springs unless you are carrying extra weight...in that case it seems the stock non-AHC springs/bars work well...although I haven't actually seen techstream numbers...
3. Buy Slee override...and run in high all the time. Still need to adjust springs/bars as above to get neutral pressure in line.
4. Forget the coolness factor and stick to stock height...if you do tweak height, keep it to a minimum. Besides that "coolness factor" there is absolutely no reason to have your vehicle lifted with your tire size. The main reason for a lift on any vehicle is to clear larger tires...since 33s fit with no lift, unless you're planning on 35s the only real reason is additional breakover angle/belly clearance. Since you have that clearance at the push of a button with AHC, it again just becomes an "I like the way it looks" thing. So if you can get beyond, that , best choice becomes to just worry about getting your neutral pressures in line an having your AHC perform as well as possible.

As always, just my humble opinion. It's your vehicle and you should do to it whatever makes you happy....
Click to expand...


Codertimt,

I have bought a Slee override, but am contemplating put it on my 07 LC with AHC… My tires have about 10k left on them (rig is at 76k), and I just don't know what angle to turn. Should I ride with the AHC in High all the time…? Or should I buy one tire size up form stock, and just ride in Neutral and Hi sometimes….

Would you happen to have any insight on what the max tire size that can fit with an AHC in Hi 24/7? And what would fit in Neutral 24/7?

I'd appreciate your opinion.

Thanks!
 
codertimt said:
I really encourage you to read all the posts you can about AHC lift. Maybe you already understand this and just misspoke in this highlighted quote above...but with AHC, the ride height is not accomplished by spring height and/or stiffer spring; it is set via the the sensor position. The sensor tells the suspension what level it should be at and the hydraulics put it at that level. You then adjust springs(crank torsion bars, new rear springs/spacers) to get your neutral pressures in line. The only way your going to get a lift via spring is the scenario of non AHC springs/torsion bars on your stock weight AHC cruiser...then you could see a bit of a lift from the springs...but that's only because the system can't manage to get down to the specified height because the springs are supporting too much weight...and the suspension performance will suffer. I personally don't know how bad it will be, but from what I've read, you definitely won't be able to go down to Low anymore and I can't see how it would work well.

So, from what I have researched your options are...
1. Ditch AHC and go to traditional lift.
2. Adjust height sensors for a slight lift and adjust torsion bars/add spring spacer to bring neutral pressures back in line. You will definitely get much closer to proper numbers with stock AHC bars/springs than with non-AHC bars/springs unless you are carrying extra weight...in that case it seems the stock non-AHC springs/bars work well...although I haven't actually seen techstream numbers...
3. Buy Slee override...and run in high all the time. Still need to adjust springs/bars as above to get neutral pressure in line.
4. Forget the coolness factor and stick to stock height...if you do tweak height, keep it to a minimum. Besides that "coolness factor" there is absolutely no reason to have your vehicle lifted with your tire size. The main reason for a lift on any vehicle is to clear larger tires...since 33s fit with no lift, unless you're planning on 35s the only real reason is additional breakover angle/belly clearance. Since you have that clearance at the push of a button with AHC, it again just becomes an "I like the way it looks" thing. So if you can get beyond, that , best choice becomes to just worry about getting your neutral pressures in line an having your AHC perform as well as possible.

As always, just my humble opinion. It's your vehicle and you should do to it whatever makes you happy....
Click to expand...


Codertimt,

I did have the general idea of how AHC worked but you explained it much better. I will do a minimal investment in dialing in the AHC ride and if that doesn't look like it is going to work well, I will go to standard LC suspension. Thank you for taking the time to explain the finer points.

Tom
 
Can anyone tell me if the P/N for the rear springs on a 2000 LX470 is the same as a '06-'07 LC w/AHC. The parts guy at my local Yoda dealer didn't even know that 100 series LC was ever available w/AHC.


...via IH8MUD app
 
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