I have completed the speaker/amp install and wanted to do a brief write-up for anyone else that is looking to upgrade speakers while adding an amp to the factory head unit. There are a few things that I had to go back and re-work (which meant taking the seats out and taking apart the center console again). Overall I am VERY happy with the results even though an audiophile would find faults. The Polk Audio DXI 6500 components scream with the amp and sound MUCH better than the stock system could have ever dreamed.
Here are a few thoughts from the install:
Parts:
PAC SOEM - T Line-Out-Converter from post #2
Precision Power (PPI) PC4400 amp (50 watts x 4 RMS - clean old school power)
2 sets of POLK DXI 6500 component speakers (6.5"woofers, 1" tweeters and passive crossovers)
2 Esoteric Y adapter RCAs
50 ft spool of Monster Cable 16-guage insulated speaker wire
(Here at AMAZON)
Various butt and spade connectors
- I ended up tapping into the front left output speaker wire from the factory amp. I then attached that wire to the factory sub wire at the amp (I had removed the factory sub years ago when input my cb speaker in it's place). I then simply tapped into the sub wire where it comes off the factory harness under the center cosole. I grabbed it before it plugs into the black "sub box" (blue and white wires). From there I only needed about 14" of speaker wire in order to reach the LOC that sits under the seat by the amp.
- I only used a 2 channel LOC. I used two Y adapter RCAs in order to attach the two outputs from the LOC into both FR and RR RCA inputs on the amp. I can then use the FR and RR gain to adjust the fade...if needed.
- Since I was mounting the amp under the driver's seat and my keyless fob has been missing for years, I decided to go ahead and remove the black alarm box as it was of no use. At the time, I didn't know that I also needed to switch some connections by the left foot kick plate in order to have the truck start again...I thought that I had a dead battery the first time I tried to start the truck after the amp install. I am attaching a pic of the two connections that I switched in order to bypass the starter interruption that occurs when the black box is disconnected. Once I switched these connections, life was good and I was very relieved to have mud to utilize in finding this solution. Btw, I had the RS9000 box.
-Make sure you have a VERY good ground for the amp! I had some noise after the initial install (at first I thought it was the LOC) and had to take everything apart to sand the ground area down more (I should have done a better job the first time...I knew better). My ground for the amp is under the center console. I have no complaints about the LOC. It is serving my needs perfect!
- Component speakers are the way to go! The passive crossovers combined with the amp's active crossovers in the amp add a great deal of flexibility and the separate woofer and tweeter increase performance.
- Even though I am sure sound quality could be better, I chose to mount then tweeters for the front in the same location as the factory dash tweeters. I may at some point change this but I just couldn't decide on a location in the door that I was happy with and therefore didn't want to drill 2" holes until I thought about it more. I guess that another benefit of this will be the lack of visible components to wandering eyes as many will then correctly assume that there is an amp in the truck. The rear speakers do have the tweeters mounted near the woof and aimed up. The more I think about it, I may just mount the front tweeters on the black plastic cover for the by the side mirrors. I figure that I can use some SUGRU and get them mounted up good without having to drill anything. I will be able to point them at the driver and passenger directly (will probably use the -3db setting on the passive crossover to start.
- I ran all new speaker wire and although it was tedious, I think it was better than running wire all the way back to the factory amp location and connecting it to the the factory output wires from there. I used a cheap 50 ft spook of Monster cable wire that I got on amazon. I liked this wire as it was not only twisted but came in coated in a plastic sleeve of protection. These new wires were bigger as well so maybe they will be better for the higher wattage that the amp is pushing (I really don't think there will be a difference since I am only running about 50 watts RMS to each speaker.
Here are the pics:
#1 - Factory amp where I tapped into the Front Left Speaker output and combined it with the wires that run to the sub.
#2 - Here are the two connections that you need to switch if you remove your black alarm box (truck will not start until you switch these). They have blk and white wires leading into the plugs.
#3 - Rear door speakers with tweeters. There is no metal behind the panel where these tweeters are mounted. That was nice as I only had to drill the 2" hole in to the panel for the flush mount kit from Polk...very easy to install. Speaker did not need spacers but did need a larger hole than stock.
#4 - Front door speaker. I did use the spacer that came with the speakers to enable the magnet to clear the window rail. I did not have to make the hole any bigger to fit the speakers up front. There is about 1/4" gap between the grill and the side dash when the door is closed
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