AFM settings for 2.6 liter

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EVILSPOTTER

EVILSPOTTER

10 Year 15 Year
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Hi mudders! I haven't posted in a while, because I have been tied up with non-truck related stuff, but I still log on & lurk when I have a few minutes to myself. I want to ask the resident experts who have been screwing with their AFM's how their settings are working out. Several months ago I did a 2.6 liter stroker kit from LC engineering, since then I have been playing with the tuning to see what I can come up with. I went to our FAQ & read Tim Jenkins' tuning tips, & have also looked at LC engineering tech and various other web wheeling type tech info. So far it appears to me that a very small adjustment of the AFM wheel richens the mixture quite a bit, many of the settings I have found on the internet are overkill, including LC engineering's suggestion of 3-5 teeth. Currently I am two teeth rich, and am considering going down to one tooth. For guesstimation purposes I have been running each setting for 200 miles, reading plugs, installing new ones, changing setting & repeat test. The initial setting was LC's high end of the range, 5 teeth, moving down one tooth at a time to my present setting. I started rich to avoid a potentially dangerous overly lean condition. Also in order to protect my new o2 sensor I have installed a good used one for testing purposes. I have considered that the o2 sensor could be inaccurate, and I intend to use this setting for a little while longer because I feel that I am getting close, then I'll install the new one.


I did not go with the stroker because I was unhappy with 22re performance. I had an engine on the stand that would require crank, rods, pistons & camshaft. In this case the stroker was almost economically feasible, so we chalked up the additional parts expense as necessary experimentation.


So fellow Toyotaphiles, who has been fooling with their AFM?
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Thanks guys. I have to either F-with it or pony up for LC's meter & signal modifier. I do feel like I am getting closer though, and a local drag racer told me about a shop in San Antonio that charges $75.00 for two runs on the dyno with a wide band o2 sensor in the tail-pipe. I just want to get as close as possible before I go. Timing is easy to change on the dyno, the AFM adjustment seems to require some time for the computer to re-map, time that will not be available strapped to a dyno evidently.
 
Do you know or possibly can tell me/ us how only the difference in stroke felt to the rig?

Is that one mod alone drastic enough to be effective and worth it.

I have a feeling yes, but would like to know from someone who's done it.
 
Well, the kit that I got only adds about 200cc's & it wasn't cheap, but if you are replacing the rotating assembly anyway, then you get closer to "worth it". My truck was a good deal when I bought it, but since the SAS, dual cases, lift, lockers, underhood welder, winch........................ you get the idea, "worth it" is relative and highly subjective. That being said, at this point my rebuild cost $900 at the machine shop. My machinist charges the same price for BBB on any 22r. I spent $2200 at LC engineering for most of the parts in my rotating assembly & an EFI pro cam. Knowing what I know now, this can be done cheaper. I spent another $500 on things that I always replace anyway, like clutch water pump etc. A $3600 22r is no steal, and many people have already told me this, but that goes back to whether or not it is "worth it".
I think that at this point I am going to say yes, but. I am not finished finding the right tuning combo for this engine, and this should not be considered by people that do not like 22r's. I do like 22r's, and I was happy with 100 hp. I was happy with the total package, and I even think they look cool. My stock 275000 mile 22r has been tow rig, rock-crawler, and work truck.
At present I am close enough to what I feel is the right tune to have formed some initial impressions. I have noticed no noticeable improvement in torque off-idle. This surprised me. At 3000 RPM I have a noticeable increase in power over stock, that carries through 4500 RPM & then tapers off. I am pretty sure that I can blame the cam for that. A nice bonus is that before, I was unable to use my cruise control on even slight hills and now it works pretty well. My brother and I decided to experiment with this engine because we had never had a 2.6 and no one that we knew could tell us about them. At this early stage I feel that it looks promising, but in my 4runner it will have a very hard life, and eventually I will destroy it. At this point I think that it is worth it.
 
I'm thinking they're a Diesel crank but thats not been proven yet. IIRC the stroke is the same.

And I'll take dependability over POWA!! anyday. I know what you mean.
 
I don't know anything about toyota diesels, but this crank had additional material welded to the outer portion of the rod journals, and was reground to create additional throw. I have heard that Ted @ engnbldr can do this as well, and get you a better deal.
 
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