My freon (or whatever it is) is low. The clutch won't engage so the freon will add. How can i manually engage the clutch, or how should i approach this problem. Thanks!
john
john
adding freon100 series
- Thread starter John Lunstroth
- Start date
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Not sure but I have always heard that if you need to add freon, you should first be looking for a leak to repair.
Good luck.
Good luck.
When I fill it, I let the engine run while I do it, then I drive it around for 10 minutes and let it sit for 5 more usually.
Not sure if that helps at all
The reason your compressor won't engage most likely is because you have no system pressure sensed by a pressure sensor located while looking at the condenser in the right bottom corner. So you have leak and need to find it, simple right, no... I just had the same problem and found an AC line going to my rear air with a pin hole. The hole was located on the liquid line (small line) positioned above the frame rail on the right rear passenger side. I attempted to find the leak using Nitrogen and soapy water but never made it back that far. As most people donn't have a tank of nitrogen sitting around you'll want to us an alternate method. If you use this method you need to go over every inch of the line with the soapy water.
I ended up vacuuming the system down ( if you don't have a vacuum pump you could by one off amazon for $80.00). Surprisingly the vacuum held which didn't make sense so I charged the system and added a dye charge. I still couldn't locate the UV dye at night and it wasn't until I was doing a tire rotation that I saw the oil leaking out of the line above the rear frame rail in back of the pass tire. The line was pain to get out as I needed to drop the muffler and shave about an 1/8 inch of this little rubber bumper that appears to prevent the body from hitting the frame in extreme situations. I also found that when I tried to remove the bolt form the Rear Evaporator that the bolt head just sheared off. I used an 8mm bit to drill the shank out and the original threads were still in place so I didn't need to tap it.
I ended up vacuuming the system down ( if you don't have a vacuum pump you could by one off amazon for $80.00). Surprisingly the vacuum held which didn't make sense so I charged the system and added a dye charge. I still couldn't locate the UV dye at night and it wasn't until I was doing a tire rotation that I saw the oil leaking out of the line above the rear frame rail in back of the pass tire. The line was pain to get out as I needed to drop the muffler and shave about an 1/8 inch of this little rubber bumper that appears to prevent the body from hitting the frame in extreme situations. I also found that when I tried to remove the bolt form the Rear Evaporator that the bolt head just sheared off. I used an 8mm bit to drill the shank out and the original threads were still in place so I didn't need to tap it.
You can fool the pressure sensor to think there is enough pressure by jumping the two leads inside the plastic connector. I wouldn't do this for any length of time as you will damage the compressor if it runs without the refrigerant (which has oil in it for lubrication.) But maybe you can do it for a few seconds to make sure your compressor isn't broken. The compressor doesn't have to run for you to charge/discharge the system.
Before you jump the pressure switch you best get a set of gauges and verify pressure. The switch is surely not a high failure item. My bet is you have no R134. If you don't have gauges you could also pull the cap off the high pressure port and depress the schrader valve to see if any refrigerant comes out if you don't have gauges of course.