Did they do a freon sniff test inside the cabin? Mine had a leaky evaporator. Whole dash had to come off.
AC Temp 56 degree after shop diagnosed and recharged it
- Thread starter Infinity00
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
We did talk about testing there and at the back but I saw them put it on the lift and only check the outside the vehicle. Then they ran it into their garage door as they were backing out!
Anyway, I asked them to evacuate it again in a month to see if there was lost Freon in that time frame - since it was low again this year - down to 0.7 lbs from a normal of 1.8 lbs.
@ceylonfj40nut did you diagnose it yourself or find a good shop who found it? What were your symptoms? I can’t believe last year I was getting 47 degrees and this year the new shop is telling me 57 degrees is good! I guess I should have been happy. I was going off my ac thermometer showing it should be colder.
Anyway, I asked them to evacuate it again in a month to see if there was lost Freon in that time frame - since it was low again this year - down to 0.7 lbs from a normal of 1.8 lbs.
@ceylonfj40nut did you diagnose it yourself or find a good shop who found it? What were your symptoms? I can’t believe last year I was getting 47 degrees and this year the new shop is telling me 57 degrees is good! I guess I should have been happy. I was going off my ac thermometer showing it should be colder.
Last edited:
Bought a AC sniffer nose from Harbor Freight. It detected the Evap. Worked pretty well cheap as I recall.
No one has asked what the gauges are reading? So, what are the gauges reading? That's pretty important. Good rule of thumb for the highside would be double the ambient temp plus around 10%. So 90 degrees would put you around 190 to 210. Low side should be 25ish to 45ish.
- Thread starter
- #25
I’m going to try to check that today, and pull the glove box off. I did notice the condenser fan and the compressor are coming on every 15 seconds or so, and when I put my hand on the condenser after driving for 30 minutes both top and bottom were hot. The bottom less than the top but still warm. How big of a differential should there be?
I finally got the FSM, but it leaves some things out like the differential temps at top and bottom of condenser but maybe that is something people just learn about as they work on these...
I finally got the FSM, but it leaves some things out like the differential temps at top and bottom of condenser but maybe that is something people just learn about as they work on these...
- Thread starter
- #26
Before starting the vehicle I pulled off the caps from the low and high side. The low schrader valve is leaking. The dye they put in is around the valve stem and I can see bubbles in the dye. One of the shops replaced this schrader valve twice so I think I’ll order a toyota one. The high side schrader valve is fine.
The static readings are close to equal at 100 psi (before I started the vehicle):
**********************************************************
And BELOW are the readings once I start the car - on cold recirc with ambient temps around 88 deg F it cycles between 40-60 psi on the low side while maintaining ~185-200 psi on the high side. FSM calls for 14-16 kgf/cm^2 which I calculate is 200-227 psi (Corrected from earlier calculation that was wrong). My 185 psi reading would be too low in that case, maybe a problem with the compressor?:
any help here is appreciated!
*********************************************************
Cycling between that reading and this one every 15 seconds or so
The static readings are close to equal at 100 psi (before I started the vehicle):
**********************************************************
And BELOW are the readings once I start the car - on cold recirc with ambient temps around 88 deg F it cycles between 40-60 psi on the low side while maintaining ~185-200 psi on the high side. FSM calls for 14-16 kgf/cm^2 which I calculate is 200-227 psi (Corrected from earlier calculation that was wrong). My 185 psi reading would be too low in that case, maybe a problem with the compressor?:
any help here is appreciated!
*********************************************************
Cycling between that reading and this one every 15 seconds or so
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #27
I’m not seeing or hearing anything move when I’m changing between recirc and outdoor button. Do I need to fully remove the piece behind the glove box to get at this flapper? Meaning, remove the screws, not just drop the glove box down, or can I see it by just pulling the glove box off? I’ll pull off the entire covering to get a better look at it but I don’t think it’s working. There is no change in the volume of air when I press that button. On other cars, the air gets stronger and colder when I press recirc to the on position
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #28
I called Lexus to get a part number on a Schrader valve for the low side that is leaking. They confirmed it's the entire hose that needs to be replaced. Since this will be my third universal Schrader valve replacement, I'm thinking it's time to replace it with OEM hose. Before I do that I'm wondering, has anyone had luck with the universals NOT leaking?
Entire hose is expensive $342 from Lexus, part # 88710-6B021 but I've found it for $170 through toyota
Entire hose is expensive $342 from Lexus, part # 88710-6B021 but I've found it for $170 through toyota
- Thread starter
- #29
I took off the glove box and the plastic surrounding the blower so now I can see the flapper you’re talking about and the different servos. Everything is working properly. I’ve attached a picture so other people know where to look.
- Thread starter
- #30
Set to recirc the flapper door is blocking the incoming fresh air and is open to the car’s interior:
When set to fresh air the flapper door rotates down to open it to the outdoor air:
When set to fresh air the flapper door rotates down to open it to the outdoor air:
- Thread starter
- #31
I found out the place testing my GX AC doesn’t have a gas leak detector, just a UV light.
So I got one and a black light to look around. I found some dye but not much, near a fitting by the back side of the passenger wheel, when I pulled one of those clips off. It’s slightly corroded on the thin line.
So I got one and a black light to look around. I found some dye but not much, near a fitting by the back side of the passenger wheel, when I pulled one of those clips off. It’s slightly corroded on the thin line.
- Thread starter
- #32
Using the gas detector is an art from my limited experience, sometimes it seemed like it got set off by a small breeze. But I believe I definitely have Freon coming out of the vents. And maybe the rear drain. I haven’t found the front drain yet as I was doing all this is the dark.
