AC compressor pulley bearing replacement insitu?

[YEP YEP AHA]

Hey, I’m looking to replace my AC Compressor Pulley Bearing without removing the Compressor. Looks like I may have to remove the baseplates, front Left wheel & splash guard… maybe the f#cking radiator! Has anyone done this before? Couldn’t find anything on YouTube for the 200 series specifically so I’m thinking not… Any help would be appreciated. Ta, James

 

[Boston Mangler]

Hey, I’m looking to replace my AC Compressor Pulley Bearing without removing the Compressor. Looks like I may have to remove the baseplates, front Left wheel & splash guard… maybe the f#cking radiator! Has anyone done this before? Couldn’t find anything on YouTube for the 200 series specifically so I’m thinking not… Any help would be appreciated. Ta, James

Sidenote: did you buy the parts already?

I have a brand new OEM assembly I bought with plans of replacement, but my issue ended up being the PS pump, so I have the compressor pulley/bearing brand new sitting in a box on shelf

 

[GrouchyTech]

Hey, I’m looking to replace my AC Compressor Pulley Bearing without removing the Compressor. Looks like I may have to remove the baseplates, front Left wheel & splash guard… maybe the f#cking radiator! Has anyone done this before? Couldn’t find anything on YouTube for the 200 series specifically so I’m thinking not… Any help would be appreciated. Ta, James

Access from underneath. Remove the front skid and front left tire. Remove the drive belt, the 2 rear bolts, the 2 front nuts, then remove the 2 studs with an E4 socket. You should then be able to til the compressor nose-down and back a little so you have access to remove the pulley and swap everything over.

 

[kcjaz]

You can remove the pulley/clutch w/o removing the compressor. I’ve done it but I also had the radiator out which I’m sure made it easier but wouldn’t be necessary. Don’t loose the magnetic clutch spacer shims when you pull the pulley/clutch off. The will be one, two or three of them and you will need them put back exactly the same way or the clutch will not work.

 

[YEP YEP AHA]

Sidenote: did you buy the parts already?

I have a brand new OEM assembly I bought with plans of replacement, but my issue ended up being the PS pump, so I have the compressor pulley/bearing brand new sitting in a box on shelf…

Hi, I haven’t bought any parts yet. Bearings I can get just about anywhere I reckon and they are relatively cheap.

I forgot to mention, I have the 2010 200 series GXL with the 4.5L twin turbo diesel engine (1VD-FTV)

Not sure if that changes the suitability of the parts you have on hand re: compatibility with my car?

Most peeps on YouTube suggest replacing the whole compressor as the pulley bearing might be knackered coz the compressor internals are knackered…

It’s a lot of work to go digging in there to replace a bearing when that might not be the root cause… but worth a shot if I can fix the AC for ~$20 and my time.

What is the PS pump?

 

[Boston Mangler]

Hi, I haven’t bought any parts yet. Bearings I can get just about anywhere I reckon and they are relatively cheap.

I forgot to mention, I have the 2010 200 series GXL with the 4.5L twin turbo diesel engine (1VD-FTV)

Not sure if that changes the suitability of the parts you have on hand re: compatibility with my car?

Most peeps on YouTube suggest replacing the whole compressor as the pulley bearing might be knackered coz the compressor internals are knackered…

It’s a lot of work to go digging in there to replace a bearing when that might not be the root cause… but worth a shot if I can fix the AC for ~$20 and my time.

What is the PS pump?

Ah. Disregard, mine is petrol variant

PS = Power Steering pump

 

[GrouchyTech]

Don’t loose the magnetic clutch spacer shims when you pull the pulley/clutch off. The will be one, two or three of them and you will need them put back exactly the same way or the clutch will not work.

This is some very good advice!

 

[YEP YEP AHA]

Access from underneath. Remove the front skid and front left tire. Remove the drive belt, the 2 rear bolts, the 2 front nuts, then remove the 2 studs with an E4 socket. You should then be able to til the compressor nose-down and back a little so you have access to remove the pulley and swap everything over.

Hey Grouchy, appreciate the super detailed instructions… having brained those for the past 15 mins… it sounds like I want to loosen the rear two bolts holding the compressor in place but only remove the lower bolt so I can then use the upper bolt as a hinge or pivot point yeah… the compressor is fairly weighty so I wouldn’t want it dropping down too far unsupported and left hanging under it’s own weight for fear of damaging refrigerant lines or anything else… Am I on the track? Not familiar with E4 sockets but just googled them & will buy a set…. I take the studs if not removed will prevent the downward rotation you are talking about? Could I not just slide it off the studs & then rotate downward?

Any additional clarification you can provide would be appreciated.

 

[YEP YEP AHA]

This is some very good advice!

Thanks KC… Most YouTubers speak of this also! I will be careful!

 

[YEP YEP AHA]

Ah. Disregard, mine is petrol variant

PS = Power Steering pump

Ps Pump ! (Face palm !!)

 

[GrouchyTech]

Hey Grouchy, appreciate the super detailed instructions… having brained those for the past 15 mins… it sounds like I want to loosen the rear two bolts holding the compressor in place but only remove the lower bolt so I can then use the upper bolt as a hinge or pivot point yeah… the compressor is fairly weighty so I wouldn’t want it dropping down too far unsupported and left hanging under it’s own weight for fear of damaging refrigerant lines or anything else… Am I on the track? Not familiar with E4 sockets but just googled them & will buy a set…. I take the studs if not removed will prevent the downward rotation you are talking about? Could I not just slide it off the studs & then rotate downward?

Any additional clarification you can provide would be appreciated.

Edit: I just saw that you have a diesel. I have no experience at all with how those engine accessories are laid out, so what I’ve told you might not apply at all

Yes, the stud removal makes it so you are able to move the compressor to a location where it’s easier to remove the clutch assembly. I can’t remember if there’s enough room and slack to slide the compressor off the studs without removing them, but they’re typically easy to take out—sometimes they even come out with the nut. You could use a bungee or something similar to hold the weight of the compressor off the refrigerant lines.

 

[YEP YEP AHA]

Edit: I just saw that you have a diesel. I have no experience at all with how those engine accessories are laid out, so what I’ve told you might not apply at all

Yes, the stud removal makes it so you are able to move the compressor to a location where it’s easier to remove the clutch assembly. I can’t remember if there’s enough room and slack to slide the compressor off the studs without removing them, but they’re typically easy to take out—sometimes they even come out with the nut. You could use a bungee or something similar to hold the weight of the compressor off the refrigerant lines.

Thanks again grouchy. After further investigation… I think my Compressor clutch coil might be cactus… I’m not very good with sparky stuff but will try work out if it is that! At the end of the day… I’m going to have a crack at this and just wing it… but defs want to pinpoint what the actual problem is before I go diving in there… I’m sure your advice will help a lot despite difference in experience / model etc

 

[YEP YEP AHA]

Hi All. Thought I’d post an update now that the work has been completed. I spent the best part of 3 days hanging upside down in my engine bay… had to train my right hand to hold my mobile phone in camera mode & a camping head torch at the same time whilst wrangling circlip pliers in my left hand trying to dig those bloody circlips out that hold the pulley & AC mag clutch coil in place… before that though… I had to remove the radiator fan & fan shroud to gain adequate clearance & access to the AC Compressor pulley. Had to break the fan shroud in half to get the bugger out… did not want to remove the top radiator hose as I wanted to avoid opening up the cooling system… although, the radiator overflow hose & tank had to be disconnected & pushed out of the way so I could dig the fan shroud out… managed to snap the tiny radiator overflow port coming out of the top of the radiator when attempting to remove the overflow hose… there was enough of a stub left though to reconnect the hose… it should hold!! I was lucky enough to not need a bearing puller to get the ac compressor pulley off as the bearing was totally knackered! Once the serpentine belt had been removed… the pully basically fell off once it’s retaining circlip had been removed… there were tiny steel balls everywhere! It’s a wonder this thing did not blow up long before I got to it… Long story short… I replaced the coil, the pulley & the mag clutch with a new one. This comes as a kit for VDJ200 (1VD-FTV engine). Toyota Part # 88410-6A100 (Description: CLUTCH ASSY, MAGNET)… The spigot that is actually the nose of the AC compressor body got pretty banged up by my old failed ac pulley bearing but seemed good enough to attach the new pulley to… I did that & put everything back together & tried the AC but still no joy (AC light flashing intermittently in cabin & no AC)… it should be noted that I found my AC coil in pretty bad shape… it was completely cooked as the pulley had been rubbing up against the coils housing, no doubt resulting in the excessive heat due to friction which cooked the coil… The coil’s electrical conns had been melted off too! I was not aware at this stage that there are also some… TBC

 

[YEP YEP AHA]

… continued… fuses buried up under the front passenger side glove box area that had blown when the ac mag clutch coil got fried… had I known to check and replace the blown 10A AC Ignition fuse… my AC probably would have been fixed at this point… But having tried manually turning my ac clutch plate by hand and not being able to… I was convinced my ac compressor was locked up and in need of replacement… I managed to get my mitts on a new AC Compressor which unfortunately already comes complete with the coil, the pulley and clutch so now I have a spare set of these parts which I will likely chuck on eBay… (Refer DENSO part #: 447280-0055) for the AC Compressor C/W Mag Clutch, Pulley & Clutch plate…

 

[YEP YEP AHA]

This YouTube vid does a good job of explaining what bits need to come off in order to replace the AC compressor on a 200 series Landcruiser:

 

[YEP YEP AHA]

I got a progressional / mobile AC technician to de-gas my ac system before I worked on it & the same bloke to re-gas the system once my work was done! I now have to wear a jumper in the car when running the ac! It is bloody cold which is good coz Melbourne is hot as hell right now!

 

[YEP YEP AHA]

I also replaced my Condensor @ the same time upon advice from the AC Tech that helped me… that was $275 for a decent after-market one… Made in Taiwan… (Refer to Jay-Air Part # CN6040J) the compressor I managed to get for $850…