About to plunge into JDM Cruiser nerd land... am I crazy? (1 Viewer)

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I like it.

I don't want to do a shackle reversal again. It came with a lot of headaches and I ended up having to get some crazy custom driveshaft built, and even then it bound up at full droop and had to be clearance. Pretty sure I can make a lot of good stuff happen with a good set of springs.

I appreciate the advice, looking forward to getting into this truck!



I have my own opinion of shackle reversals and I really, really do not like them on a Land Cruiser. I have done it, and it does improve ride somewhat - there are less small bumps felt and there is slightly better tracking on the highway.

However, there was a fad (my opinion) on these with the FJ40s and the downsides are not worth the upsides. I would not do one on any Land Cruiser, but again, that's my opinion.

And you're right, up travel is good for comfort, but down travel offers better 4 wheeling and 'balance' to how the truck performs. A lot of what's wrong with OME is the shocks are too short and I feel that the springs could be a few cm longer in many applications to improve shackle angle and ride; these are both things that can be worked around easily enough, though. The spring rates and free arch should also be adjusted a bit to load the spring more... and provide more down travel with decent up travel for comfort, but again, that's my own preference and I'm not going to tell ARB that they haven't got it quite right in optimizing their suspension systems for wheel travel and comfort.

Really, don't use a voltage converter for more than a stereo. Really, don't use one for more than a few things like a stereo... change that mindset.

Lights can have 24V bulbs installed, fridges run on 24V, winch motors and solenoids can be changed for 24V (and work better in any case on 24V)... there's very little that doesn't work better on 24V. .

Do some reading in the 70 series section on lifts and configurations, there's lots to read and find out. The front axle usually needs to go ahead a bit (20-25mm) and the shock lengths are not so much an issue as with the placement of the mounting points to optimized travel in the shock with how the suspension moves.

And, get out of your 40 series mindset. Park it. You're venturing in to 70 series Land now and it's a different beast in so many amazing ways and you can't compare back and forth, so just don't. It's the same (sort of) but not.

Just clear anything from your mind that you've done in the past with your 40 series and let it go. Sit on a rock near a river and meditate for a while. Find your space. Let anything 40 series drift in to your past and embrace a superior vehicle from the perspective of "the beginner's mind" and start all over again. (yes, really).

~John
 

divemedic

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I don't know why people are so finite on tire sizes. Saying "70's don't need 35+ tires period" is super obtuse. Maybe you do, maybe you don't. That's your call. I would recommend you wheel it a bit on 33's and see. If you go 35+ you'll need to shift the front axel forward.

In any case, here is a photos of my friend's 78 on 38's He has a custome coil setup.

image.jpeg


And another friends 74 on 37's. He did a LOA conversion with 2" lift leafs.

image.jpeg


Lastly a 30th Anniversary Ute on 35's.

image.jpeg


Here in Okinawa most 70 series get 35" tires minimum for the trails here. 33 and below are only good on Jimnys and similar small trucks.
 
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Messages
1,455
Hello,

A couple things.

If you are going on 35 in. tires, a lift and moving the front axle 25 mm (1 in.) forward will help. Search the threads on this section for details. Keep in mind that there will still be some rubbing, and maneuvering on tight spaces, such as parking lots, can be tricky. Ask me how I know.

The 1HZ engine is reliable and unstoppable but slow. Bigger tires will make it even slower, especially on pavement. Be it 35s or whatever size, it is worth remembering this about driving a Land Cruiser: "Welcome to life in the slow lane."

A low pressure turbo does wonders with the 1HZ. Heat and one's right foot kill engines. Do some research on turbo mapping, and try to stay with a low pressure (or low boost) configuration.

70 Series Cruisers are based on their 40 Series predecessors, but this does not mean that solutions/devices/parts that work on the former can be used on the latter. This includes suspension. ARB is a good choice, but that is just my opinion.

The FRP top will break if too much load is put over it. Steel deforms/bends under load but is flexible, and it is likely to recover its original shape. FRP composite is not; strong but rigid, it will break. Some use exoskeletons around the rear part of the top and put their roof rack over them, but this may involve drilling/tapping the body, which might be like chopping for some. Whatever the choice, FRP tops are hard to get, so it is better to be cautious.

Please confirm whether your gearbox is an H55F. It might be possible that your Cruiser has the R141 transmission, which is weaker. If you have a 141, it is better to be careful.

My two cents.





Juan
 
Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
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Slow is fine, I don't think I'll touch the engine on this first round. I'm so thrilled to finally score a diesel Cruiser, the last thing I want to do is blow it up.

It's looking like I'll be doing the 4:1 transfer case gears with the 10% underdrive. That should take care of moving the 35s. Suspension shouldn't be an issue. Atlas Spring is going to build the leafs from scratch. My real question was about the body. I didn't want to have to carve out the wheel wells for full stuff, which is why I am stepping down to 35s.

As far as the rack, I really just want to throw the tent up there. My original plan was to clamp onto the front and rear drip rails, but even that seems precarious. The rent/rack scenario may have to wait until the next round.


Hello,

A couple things.

If you are going on 35 in. tires, a lift and moving the front axle 25 mm (1 in.) forward will help. Search the threads on this section for details. Keep in mind that there will still be some rubbing, and maneuvering on tight spaces, such as parking lots, can be tricky. Ask me how I know.

The 1HZ engine is reliable and unstoppable but slow. Bigger tires will make it even slower, especially on pavement. Be it 35s or whatever size, it is worth remembering this about driving a Land Cruiser: "Welcome to life in the slow lane."

A low pressure turbo does wonders with the 1HZ. Heat and one's right foot kill engines. Do some research on turbo mapping, and try to stay with a low pressure (or low boost) configuration.

70 Series Cruisers are based on their 40 Series predecessors, but this does not mean that solutions/devices/parts that work on the former can be used on the latter. This includes suspension. ARB is a good choice, but that is just my opinion.

The FRP top will break if too much load is put over it. Steel deforms/bends under load but is flexible, and it is likely to recover its original shape. FRP composite is not; strong but rigid, it will break. Some use exoskeletons around the rear part of the top and put their roof rack over them, but this may involve drilling/tapping the body, which might be like chopping for some. Whatever the choice, FRP tops are hard to get, so it is better to be cautious.

Please confirm whether your gearbox is an H55F. It might be possible that your Cruiser has the R141 transmission, which is weaker. If you have a 141, it is better to be careful.

My two cents.





Juan
 

woody

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Toquerville UT
Good to know my 2 cents on the phone the other day is confirmed :)

I strongly considered 35's on my BJ74...would have likely necessitated a diff regear...and bumpstops/other adjustments. I validated my concern when the BJ74 was on the Metalcloak CTI during this year's EJS with my new OME lift and the worn 33" tires...when they maxed my suspension out, I couldn't fit my hand between the tire and the fenderwells, front or rear. (CTI score: 580) I can get them to rub at full lock when on the trails.

Testing the BJ74 ARB 4x4 Accessories -... - Brian 'woody' Swearingen | Facebook

CTI.jpg


Showing off how capable the rig is with 33's is fun...you cannot imagine the looks I got at EJS on the Vendor runs. :)

My limiting factor is NOT the tires...it's the potential body damage. I've come incredibly close a number of times, and thus far have one minor scuff on the body (recently)...that day changed my thinking a bit as to when to push the BJ74 and when to simply enjoy a day on the trails. Armor is your friend, but mistakes (or spotters you don't know/trust) will happen.

My wife drove it to EJS...topped 91mph on I-70. Replaced a head gasket not long thereafter. Rebuilt the turbo this week, just for fun. New "limits" have been put on what speeds to be driving at...

T-case gearing is on my list, and the Marks kit will likely happen sometime this year. Re-drilling the front perches for 1" of wheelbase is also coming (100 pushed to 101").

I've likewise been agonizing over RTT options and a cargo rack...I've got some ideas, but haven't dove into anything just yet. Likely a winter project.

IMO...do the springs and be amazed with what it does on 33's.

My setup: OME springs, Nitrocharger shocks, ARB lockers, ARB front bumper, 24v ComeUp winch, Metaltech sliders, TrailTailor rear bumper, 2.5" exhaust (with Magaflow muffler), 6mm wastegate shims, RCV front chromos, Aisin lockouts, 285 Cooper STT Pro's on MT 16" wheels.

Can't wait until you've got 'er home and have some seat time in :)
 
Joined
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Bah! Leave it to you to come in and crap on my dreams ;) ! It's gotta have 35s damnit! Ok, ok I will proceed with caution. Luckily we will be able to spend some time on the suspension and work out the kinks since we will be building the leafs from scratch (I can't say enough about Atlas Spring and I strongly recommend anyone on this forum let Fernando build you some leaf springs).

If budget allows, speed bumps may in the cards, if only to be able to really nail the suspension compression numbers.

I also don't want to trash the body. This rig has a few bruises on it already, which is good for me because otherwise I tweak out scratches and dings. One of the reason I want to make the tires happen is that once you have it worked out, the tires make it easier to tackle the big stuff. This lesson was learned going over the Rubicon after a rough winter with an XJ on 32s.

I'll definitely keep you and everyone else posted! I'm excited to get this thing in the driveway!

Thanks Woody!

Good to know my 2 cents on the phone the other day is confirmed :)

I strongly considered 35's on my BJ74...would have likely necessitated a diff regear...and bumpstops/other adjustments. I validated my concern when the BJ74 was on the Metalcloak CTI during this year's EJS with my new OME lift and the worn 33" tires...when they maxed my suspension out, I couldn't fit my hand between the tire and the fenderwells, front or rear. (CTI score: 580) I can get them to rub at full lock when on the trails.

Testing the BJ74 ARB 4x4 Accessories -... - Brian 'woody' Swearingen | Facebook

View attachment 1287053

Showing off how capable the rig is with 33's is fun...you cannot imagine the looks I got at EJS on the Vendor runs. :)

My limiting factor is NOT the tires...it's the potential body damage. I've come incredibly close a number of times, and thus far have one minor scuff on the body (recently)...that day changed my thinking a bit as to when to push the BJ74 and when to simply enjoy a day on the trails. Armor is your friend, but mistakes (or spotters you don't know/trust) will happen.

My wife drove it to EJS...topped 91mph on I-70. Replaced a head gasket not long thereafter. Rebuilt the turbo this week, just for fun. New "limits" have been put on what speeds to be driving at...

T-case gearing is on my list, and the Marks kit will likely happen sometime this year. Re-drilling the front perches for 1" of wheelbase is also coming (100 pushed to 101").

I've likewise been agonizing over RTT options and a cargo rack...I've got some ideas, but haven't dove into anything just yet. Likely a winter project.

IMO...do the springs and be amazed with what it does on 33's.

My setup: OME springs, Nitrocharger shocks, ARB lockers, ARB front bumper, 24v ComeUp winch, Metaltech sliders, TrailTailor rear bumper, 2.5" exhaust (with Magaflow muffler), 6mm wastegate shims, RCV front chromos, Aisin lockouts, 285 Cooper STT Pro's on MT 16" wheels.

Can't wait until you've got 'er home and have some seat time in :)
 
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
2,497
I've had 35s on my 74 for about 4 years now. Emu heavies, front axle moved forward 1".
Get a little rubbing but not bad. Wheels great with stock 4.11s and Marks 3.05:1 t case gears.
I got the 1.08:1 high range set, but if I were doing it again I would have gotten the 1:1 high range. I do some long highway trips and the truck is happiest about 60-65 mph. Oh, it'll go faster, but it's less happy about it. 4.11s and 35s would be just fine with the 13B-T, which I believe is similar in power to the 1HZ?

The 35s are definitely harder on wheel and knuckle bearings. I sure like the set up though.

28087542951_21285cbe9a_c.jpg
 
Joined
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The Ute on 35s is so awesome that it causes me physical pain to look at.


I don't know why people are so finite on tire sizes. Saying "70's don't need 35+ tires period" is super obtuse. Maybe you do, maybe you don't. That's your call. I would recommend you wheel it a bit on 33's and see. If you go 35+ you'll need to shift the front axel forward.

In any case, here is a photos of my friend's 78 on 38's He has a custome coil setup.

View attachment 1286196

And another friends 74 on 37's. He did a LOA conversion with 2" lift leafs.

View attachment 1286204

Lastly a 30th Anniversary Ute on 35's.

View attachment 1286207

Here in Okinawa most 70 series get 35" tires minimum for the trails here. 33 and below are only good on Jimnys and similar small trucks.
 

divemedic

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Joined
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Messages
1,892
The bar work was nuts. He had bits of sheet metal welded in to form "over fenders". I personally would do it as I feel it would flex and dent the truck up. But it's sexy regardless.
image.jpeg
image.jpeg

image.jpg
 
Joined
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Messages
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Yeah... See then you go and post that and everyone starts wondering how realistic a 4 door ute is here in the states. Nice truck... Bastard!

It seems like every ute that makes its way here is from the land down under and is beat to death. I checked one out a while ago and it was simultaneously the saddest yet most awesome vehicle I've ever driven, all for the low, low price of $17,000...

The bar work was nuts. He had bits of sheet metal welded in to form "over fenders". I personally would do it as I feel it would flex and dent the truck up. But it's sexy regardless.
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