About to do timing belt and water pump replacement (1 Viewer)

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Clifton NJ
Hey people!
With all the free time I decided to start replacing the timing belt (with all the accessories from timing belt kit) and water pump. Since its an involved task and lots of things have to be removed, is there a list of other parts that I might as well replace while I'm at it? My truck has 200k miles and id rather start replacing things, especially if its something small and cheap that otherwise would be a pain to replace on its own. I don't have a record of repairs done to it, so I don't know whats new and whats been sitting there since factory.
Thanks!
 
I just did mine, here is my opinion and experience:

Parts:
- asin kit from amazon (wp/tb and all gaskets and o rings
- serpentine belt (don't remember if this was part of the kit)
- thermostat and O ring
- serpentine idler pulley
- serpentine tensioner pulley (measure what's on your car and get the right outside diameter for your vehicle. Amazon said I got the one compatible with my 2004 but it was too small @90mm, i needed the 100mm one.
- serpentine fan support pulley
- denso radiator off amazon as I found pink crystalized goop when I got the fan shroud off
- upper and lower hoses
- 3 gallons pink coolant

I also did spark plugs, cleaned my throttle body with carb cleaner and cleaned my MAFS while it was all apart. Also did F&R diff fluid and xfr case with synthetic gear oil since the car was laid up a couple of days waiting for the radiator.

Not a bad job if you have the right tools and a good space. No need to raise the car as the AC bolts that go into the fan support can be reached from the drivers wheel well on the ground with a universal and long extension.

I watched the great video on youtube twice just before and wrote down all the torque values in advance.

I didn't need the breaker bar/engine crank method to get the balancer bolt loose as I have a 900 ft-lb IR cordless impact that got it off. I also did a bit more disassembly than he did in the video just to get stuff out of my way (hoses, etc)
 
when you reassemble don't forget the trapezoid little critters can find a home behind your timing cover, youll see it when disassembling.
 
Seems like it is about a ~$600 job (parts only). Is that about right?
 
This is the best thread that I used and contributed to:

As noted above, get the parts to replace the sepentine belt tensioner and belt. You literally take it off and is beyond annoying to put an old part back on.

Since you're up on the miles, you might think about cam seals as well. I couldn't find a good how-to and am at half your mileage so I didn't try.

Hit me up if you run into issues.
 
Seems like it is about a ~$600 job (parts only). Is that about right?

you can do it for more or less depending on mileage. personally for me I always recommend doing the water pump when you do your second timing belt due to mileage, first belt at the 90k mark its more of a personal call if its not leaking. higher mileage it cam be recommended to replace the cam and crank seals since its really not too much labor involved in replacing them
 
This is the best thread that I used and contributed to:

As noted above, get the parts to replace the sepentine belt tensioner and belt. You literally take it off and is beyond annoying to put an old part back on.

Since you're up on the miles, you might think about cam seals as well. I couldn't find a good how-to and am at half your mileage so I didn't try.

Hit me up if you run into issues.


I did the water pump and timing belt job on mine with 193k at the time and did not change the cam seals...truthfully I did not even think of it lol! The good news is they are not leaking as of now at 208k and she's running like a top woo! They are at the top of the engine so unless there is a high pressure oil jet aiming at the seal, I can't see it leaking unless it has been damaged.
 
Thanks for the info folks. I’m getting ready to do mine soon as I just got the belt with water pump kit. I also got the t-stat and a gallon of fluid.
 
You reminded me that I want to do this also. I just received the t-belt kit and t-stat/oring, and any little tools I might need. I'm just waiting on the brake pads to do that job at the same time. I did the idler and serpentine belt earlier but given the recommendation to replace the alternator, I'll probably order brushes and bearing to pop in the old one if I can get the parts. Also, one person mentions replacing the steering pump. Maybe there's a rebuild kit out there.

What is the fan support? I saw someone had purchased that too. Is it necessary?

Here's what I bought in no particular order, hope it helps someone else....


Amazon:
For T-Belt Job
Aisin TKT-021 Timing Belt Kit with Water pump $171.77 (some people have had the WP leak, Onur stated it is an aisin in Q&A so I'm not worried)
Toyota Thermostat 90916-03100 $24.50 (always buy toyota thermostat!)
Toyota Themostat Gasket 16346-50010 $6.25
Schley Lexus Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool SCH64300 $65.23
Toyota FIPG 00295-00103 $16.26

edit: added a part
Aisin FBT-002 fan support $113

For Brake Job
Front Rotors Centric Premium 120.44127 $57.81 (for 2)
Akebono Brake Pad Kit ASP976 $63.57
 
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The fan support is the thing that the fan is attached to, that looks like a water pump (on most vehicles), it is one of the 3 bearings that the serpentine belt spins. The other 2 being the tensioner and the idler. All 3 of mine felt like cheap dry skateboard bearings at 115k miles, very different from the new replacements.
 
Cool, thanks. I added it to my list shown above
 
Nice. Definitely do the fan support during this job as it is buried pretty deep in there.
The idler and tensioner pulleys can be replaced by just pulling the belt. (Protip, idler pulley bolt is left hand threads, idler is normal)
 
Getting ready to do this soon as well (quarantine projects) lol. Can anyone think of any tools that made the job easier? anything as simple as a basic handle tool i should make sure to have?
 
I didnt have one, but the tool mentioned above to hold the crank pulley would have saved at least an hour or 2 of trying to scrounge something together to hold it still while I put torqued the bolt back down. (I used a 2x6 with a couple of grade 8 bolts through it that got badly bent, but I was able to max out my torque wrench at 180 ftlbs and give it a bit more too. I did use a breaker bar and engine crank method to loosen it which is always scary but effective!
 

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