A not so great way to add airflow (1 Viewer)

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Mar 12, 2018
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Location
Doha Qatar
So I love tinkering and convincing myself that I added power.

cold air = more oxygen = more power

I am a firm believer that a aftermarket air intake only adds power/torque if air temps are reduced. AFE is the only kit that I know of that takes air from the factory airbox location the fender well.

Additionally this intake takes air from two areas, first one from outside the fender (great place to get lots of debris and water I know bad idea, I understand especially with the fender cover removed, but that’s the only way to make good use of it)

second area is via a scoop that AFE offers that takes air from the grill.

Offcourse what’s the use of installing this kit without a tune and long tube headers. More air in with no headers is just not a good idea in my opinion.

my lc200 is already equipped with american racing long tube headers with 1 3/4 primaries and a 3 inch collector with 3 inch connecting pipes (no cats) stock muffler and tail pipe resonator


I am tuning the vehicle right now to maximize the “possible” gains.

let’s see how this goes.

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Looking forward to this. We need more threads like this branching out to different tuning topics.

It looks like it, but just to confirm this is on the 5.7L?
 
Isn’t it illegal though?
 
Isn’t it illegal though?

It is , but it’s only audible or distinguishable from stock at full throttle. They don’t inspect 2008+ cruisers for upgrades like they do on 100 series on top of that it’s not my daily driver. So I’m good.
 
I don’t see this doing much.

1) The air box is already sucking air from outside of the engine bay.
2) The throttle body is the limiting factor, and the harsh changes of direction that air path is taking isn't going to push more air past the throttle body.
3) I really hope you had a lot of dyno runs prior to this, and built some averages. It the only way to know really, as even sound makes things “feel” faster.

The long tubes and no cats probably did something small at WOT. But over here in the states where we need more mid range grunt to go up and down interstate hills, staying on a short tube usually give better torque numbers where we spend 97% of our time.

That said, I’m pumped though to see the outcome. The only way I learned about making big power was by testing and failing and testing and succeeding. I guess I’m more placing my bet, but I’d love to eat my own words cause it’s always fun to make more power.
 
I don’t see this doing much.

1) The air box is already sucking air from outside of the engine bay.
2) The throttle body is the limiting factor, and the harsh changes of direction that air path is taking isn't going to push more air past the throttle body.
3) I really hope you had a lot of dyno runs prior to this, and built some averages. It the only way to know really, as even sound makes things “feel” faster.

The long tubes and no cats probably did something small at WOT. But over here in the states where we need more mid range grunt to go up and down interstate hills, staying on a short tube usually give better torque numbers where we spend 97% of our time.

That said, I’m pumped though to see the outcome. The only way I learned about making big power was by testing and failing and testing and succeeding. I guess I’m more placing my bet, but I’d love to eat my own words cause it’s always fun to make more power.

ahh ok I see where your going with this , even if I’m throwing more air in it will still have to go through the throttle + intake manifold which could be limiting factors, understood.

+ this is not just for more flow it’s for lowering intake temps as well, well hopefully, since removing the fender cover opens up allot more space + the scoop. I am not certain this will lower temps I am just assuming ? Higher volume of ambient temps should therefore cool the air in the box more


man they had a big bore throttle body at the store should have got that as well ! That’s a test for another day.

btw you may have the wrong idea about headers !

Short tube more torque is the opposite man !

the longer the tube of the primary the more the torque is emphasized below peak torque, what you should be concerned about is header primary diameter.

these long tubes add a huge mid range torque boost especially with the collector and scavenger spike (no dyno proof unfortunately)
 
So I got it tuned

AIR FUEL RATIO (before tune): 11.4

AIR FUEL RATIO (after tune): 12.2

Rev limiter raised to 6250 RPM

Throttle map is linear

First WOT test:



Sound test:



I will be drag racing against a stock 5.7 LC200 both on and Offroad to see the difference

I will hopefully get it dynoed as well to see the nimbers
 
So I got it tuned

AIR FUEL RATIO (before tune): 11.4

AIR FUEL RATIO (after tune): 12.2

Rev limiter raised to 6250 RPM

Throttle map is linear

First WOT test:



Sound test:



I will be drag racing against a stock 5.7 LC200 both on and Offroad to see the difference

I will hopefully get it dynoed as well to see the nimbers

I thought that was MPH at first and spit out my coffee
Excited to see the gains, Is the harrop/TRD supercharger used where you are?
 
I thought that was MPH at first and spit out my coffee
Excited to see the gains, Is the harrop/TRD supercharger used where you are?
Ohhh yeah superchargers sell so well over here wheather that may be a magnoson stock kit or a harrop kit , people are starting to lean to the harrop here now.

my brothers 5.7 has a Harrop kit with the small pulley(@12 PSI) ported heads , .100mm overbore Wisco pistons and connecting rods , and methanol Kit . Stock cam.

Ill take photos of the setup and post it , hopefully I can convince him to get a test drive.

that thing smokes a Porsche 911 it’s insane. I need to see the zero to 60 and hp numbers on that thing.
 
There's some merit to the design. The front snorkel above the headlight is a configuration used by OEMs. Even if the bottleneck is elsewhere, incremental gains can be made. And definitely via your A/F tuning.

There's some strategies used in the location of the MAF with some of these aftermarket intakes. Either by pipe diameter or locating the sensor nearer the boundary layers of the pipe so flow is metered different at various flows. This can lean things out somewhat at high WOT and open loop.

Either way, the induction noise sounds good!
 
Also guys, please take into consideration the following: The climate here in Qatar currently is very hot and humid (95-100 night, 110-120 day time Fahrenheit) (humidity %60-80) weather usually stays this bad until wintertime, November-February ) I am not sure if this will sway or make results/gains less potent or not. I have read that climate changes can cause substantial variations in power however I have not done enough research to know for a fact or to know what extent the differentiation in ambient temps and humidity can influence hp and torque, this is a valid concern.
 
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Just for fun.




My wife’s ‘11 focus has the OEM intake in front and above the headlight. Sometimes, there just isn’t any better place to put it. I think the 200’s is not there for water ingestion. Make the right bow wave and you have a chance. Not always as some of us have found out, but a hell of a lot better than the front. But in Qutar, meh, just sand, so why not.
 
Just for fun.




My wife’s ‘11 focus has the OEM intake in front and above the headlight. Sometimes, there just isn’t any better place to put it. I think the 200’s is not there for water ingestion. Make the right bow wave and you have a chance. Not always as some of us have found out, but a hell of a lot better than the front. But in Qutar, meh, just sand, so why not.


Exactly! Just sand and dust. :)
 
Tested it at the dunes today,

Climate during test: 41 celsius 105 Fahrenheit, humidity 60%

Clutch fan was engaged because of the heat lots of whining noise from the fan, probably a good power loss from that. A/C was off though.

no feelable power gains

 
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Tested it at the dunes today,

Climate during test: 41 celsius 105 Fahrenheit, humidity 60%

Clutch fan was engaged because of the heat lots of whining noise from the fan, probably a good power loss from that. A/C was off though.

no feelable power gains




How does your AC work in the dead of summer? Car able to keep it cold inside?
 
When I used to race cars a lot I got into trying to prove popular mods were actually doing something.

The way to prove whether cold air intakes are helping or hurting are performed with a temp gauge, and a manometer. (both easy to come by)

The temp gauge is obvious. The manometer can be hooked up upstream of the MAF to check how much vacuum is produced at WOT. (because it's unlikely that either a CAI or the OEM intake is starving the engine at normal operating range)

Just compare the vacuum of the OEM setup vs the CAI. If the vacuum is reduced with the CAI then it proves there were improvements over the OEM setup.

In my experience, the OEM setups are sized larger than the engine can flow while being quieter.
 
A serious question for the OP, how long does the average 200 platform last over in your part of the world? Seems as though there is a lot of high revving in high heat.
 
A serious question for the OP, how long does the average 200 platform last over in your part of the world? Seems as though there is a lot of high revving in high heat.

I haven’t seen or heard of any 5.7 with problems here, but then again I don’t keep logs of every LC here so I can’t know.

I thrash it with comfort knowing it will last, I do always change oil much more often than what the factory recommends and also inspect coolant every other day.

On top of that full rebuild kits are inexpensive here, and part availability is insane, so even if I blow the entire block it’s not a big deal. Which is something I never have to worry about though.
 

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