A little sight seeing on Ophir Canyon Trail

[spressomon]

I returned to Reno last week from a fishing trip to pleasantly learn Sam had my SpressoWagon done with the rear suspension mods that had grounded it for the better part of a month. And it was ready to be picked up. Jack was my chauffeur. Thanks Jack!

Although I've had some great trips this year the Kimberley Kamper hasn't made it out of the garage for more than a one day outing. That one day was the BBCNN Bass Camp run. The run where my CV blew-up and it's internal parts grenaded all over Highway 359 south of Hawthorne instead of carrying me to Bass Camp with some of you!

With our run of hot temps last week I figured I'd sure like to find someplace to explore and camp at a higher and hopefully cooler elevation. Surprisingly Sandy was interested in the same so when given that kind of nod I get in gear fast .

Although I've explored a number of mountain ranges around the Toiyabe Mountain range, mostly with Jack and Darcie and even once at Berlin-Ichthyosaur with Jack, Darcie, Rusty Dan and Joanne (I think that was the trip your front diff decided it had another plan Dan...right?), I've only been up a couple trails on the east side of the range heretofore. Since a good swat of this range is protected by Wilderness status there are just a couple trails that run up and over the range.

Ophir Canyon trail is one of just two trails that run up and over the Toiyabe crest. It met my "higher elevation" goal with its namesake pass a little over 10,100'; surely it would be cooler up there! And Ophir Canyon trail has been on my list of trails and places to check out for some time. And since we only had 2-1/2 days for this trip this would be the ideal time to do it. Otherwise I might have been on the BBCNN Deer Valley run.

With the SpressoWagon 100-Series back up and rolling I hitched the KK, loaded the fridge along with our two dogs, Rhone and Sieg, and headed over to Renown to pick up Sandy at 2:00PM with Berlin-Ickthysaour State Park in our gunsights for Friday's camp spot.

As we headed south of Middlegate we could see the thunderhead clouds building rapidly in almost every sector of the sky. Dark brooding clouds. Along with one of those oh so familiar Nevada head winds. The kind that makes you put down a little extra grip on the steering wheel. I know you know what I'm talking about; especially you trailer towers .

We slid into Icky and were only one of 4 campers in the park. I backed the KK into a somewhat protected camp site and we made camp as the wind started to blow and rain drops threatened.

 

[spressomon]

After a slow and subsequent late dinner, thanks to some slow burning charcoal...I'm about done with trying to get along with charcoal grilling on these forays and headed back to much quicker and more reliable propane for searing the steaks...we finally ate dinner in the dark before quickly drifting off to sleep in a very quiet and peaceful setting.

Before sunrise on Saturday with just enough light to make me think about morning cappuccinos I slid out of bed, unzipped the all-to-loud zipper door on the KK (hmmm...someone needs to invent a quiet zipper ) and donned my mesh head gear.

Oh yeah...I forgot to mention the gnat problem . The darn gnats weren't this bad in Alaska! And its been a couple of decades, and none camping all over Nevada, since I'd seen gnats this bad! Bad enough we had to use netting over our hats pretty much anytime we were in camp and outside the KK. But the good news, in addition to both of us having the foresight to actually throw the head netting in the LC, was the lack of skeeters. Every cloud has its silver lining .

Since we ate late the night before we decided to just wrap Trader Joe's Chicken and Green Chile burritos in foil and let the Land Cruiser do the cooking for an early lunch or maybe late breakfast. Yeah I think they call that brunch . After enjoying our cappuccinos in the un-gnat-infested KK we headed out of camp for higher elevations.

The bulk of the photos, including the above three, were taken on Saturday July 30th.

Below is a photo of a White Admiral butterfly (my 'sis figured out what it was ).

 

[spressomon]

Originally we planned to camp at Ichthyosaur State Park on Friday night, pull up camp Saturday morning and then camp higher near the pass on Saturday night. But even though we awoke to calm perfectly clear skies it was obvious we were in a hot summer late afternoon/early evening storm pattern.

And weathering out a storm with lightning, wind, rain and maybe more was probably something I would have done in my twenties but thank God for Sandy's decision to leave the KK set up for camping at Berlin one more night too...otherwise I'd have a few more stories to tell about this trip .

For once I didn't throw caution to the wind and I actually listened and let her make the decision. More about this sage advice down thread a bit .

So we stuffed our lunch atop the Land Cruiser's radiator, loaded the dogs up, and headed for sites unseen by us up to this point. We stopped at the main fossil site within the park and even though they were not open for a couple more hours it was still neat, especially for Sandy since this was her first time getting educated about Ichthyosaurs, to peak through the windows at their fossils as well as admire in awe the life sized mural outside the main building. Quite impressive and if you haven't been you need to get there soon!

 

[spressomon]

The drive up West Union Canyon from Berlin-Ichthyosaur campground is scenic but non-technical. The trail tops out just under 8,000' on its way over to the Reese River Valley, NSR 21 and the Yomba Indian Reservation. After crossing Clear Creek and taking the easterly turn from NSR 21, at the junction with the road that heads west to Ione, we headed up NFS/NFD 017 that would become the Ophir Canyon trail. The Ophir Canyon trail, up to the pass, can be done in two wheel drive and with a passenger car: No technical driving here. But what it lacks for technical challenges it makes up for in scenery and high lofty views of the Reese River Valley, Shoshone range, Paradise range and even views, on a clear day such as this, all the way to the Sierra mountains!

About 1/2 way up to the pass you'll come into a nice thick and old Aspen grove fed by a prodigious spring at Ophir Wash. As you climb higher be sure to take the time to look back! Its an incredible view. The wildflowers, in shades of pink, purple, white, yellow, orange and blue were bursting all over both sides of the trail. Once again we hit a trail at peak wildflower bloom completely by happenstance.

 

[locrwln1]

Foot tapping...

I assume Kingston Summit was still snowed in also?

Really need to get back out there. Sounds like leaving camp set up in Icky was a good thing.

Jack

 

[spressomon]

My original plan was to go up and over Ophir Pass and then head north to Kingston Summit and then head north to where the trail connects with Hwy 50 at Austin Summit. However the snow field across Ophir Canyon Trail, just over the pass, kept us from fulfilling that goal.

I surmise there's probably more snow on Kingston; however I think they grade that no?

 

[spressomon]

The trail kept climbing through different vegetation zones, including Pinyon Pine and Juniper trees and the thick Aspens at Ophir Wash area. The day started out with nary a cloud anywhere on the horizon but as the day wore on those oh so beautiful big fluffy white clouds...the kind we used to lay in the grass and stare at when we were kids...kept building. It was obvious now, if not yesterday, we were in a summer storm pattern. But the air temp was refreshing and I kept nagging Sandy about not having the Kimberley Kamper in tow! A little of that went a long way .

There are numerous side jaunts, former mine explore trails I'm sure, to be explored all along the upper reaches of this trail. Some of which head into stands of Mountain Mahogany and/or Pinyon Pine mini-forests. Camping opportunity at the higher elevations make this area super attractive when the summer temps sore down low. I marked several of these prime camp site locations on my Lowrance HDS-5 gps for future reference.

 

[spressomon]

Although, typical for me it seems after returning from most trips, I wish I'd taken photos of this, that or any of the things I didn't capture, outside of my mind, of the entire trip. A photo of either Sandy or me with our gnat protective headwear would have been precious. As would have been the dark brooding clouds from Friday. But even as it was it seemed like I was stopping about every 1/4 mile to take a few more shots. It was THAT kind of scenic beautiful!

We continued our climb up Ophir Canyon Trail, stopping for photos and to let the dogs out for a break here and there. Sieg got a little pre-hunting season workout trying to keep up with us, from behind, on the climb. It settled his ass down in a hurray...as you dog owners know!

Once at the top of the trail, at Ophir Pass, we stopped to take in all the scenery and to bask in the wonderful high altitude air so often found at 10,000' and above. And those Trader Joe's burritos tasted fine too!

At this point you are on the very northern boundary of Arc Dome Wilderness, the largest wilderness area, by acreage, in the State of Nevada. There were numerous signs including a USFS sign depicting a top-less jeep with a "NOT RECOMMENDED" for the next portion of the trail! My second original intention, since we didn't have the KK in tow, was to drop down into Big Smoky Valley, hit Carvers for some bug bomb spray , head south to check out the southern area of the Toiyabe range including Peavine before coming back to our camp at Icky from the south.

But a snow field covering the trail about 100-yards down from the pass interrupted that plan on this day! I have to admit, and I even told Sandy, it was challenging for me to turn around without at least breaking out the shovel. But it was the smartest choice!

We kicked around the top of the pass for well over an hour taking in the upper 60-degree temps, light breeze, pillowy clouds and bug-free zone. It seemed even the bugs had a hard time breathing at this elevation .

 

[spressomon]

After basking in the thinner mountain air at Ophir Pass we turned around and headed back down. But remember I mentioned the numerous spur trails for future campsites? Much to Sandy's chagrin I just had to check a few out. And I'm glad I did as there are great places to camp between 8000' and the 10,109' Ophir Pass (and actually a little higher than the pass too!).

Naturally I kept up the banter about not having the KK in tow as thinking about camping up high just kept eating away at me. Strange how some unknown force sets me up like that...because as the day kept wearing on so did the thickening and darkening of the clouds!

We could see, towards the west especially, similar to the day before, storm clouds were taking over the sky. Once back in camp the distant drum beat of distant thunder sent Rhone looking for a safe haven. And finally he had enough and found safe haven in the Land Cruiser!

The black clouds eventually surrounded us. And what I thought was a missed opportunity to camp at the higher environs became a wide grin on Sandy's face. The ceiling came down above us, kinda right where I wanted to camp, and barked loud thunder and appeared to pour down rain in between big gusts of wind. I thanked Sandy for making the best decision of the day. I think she was relieved but she didn't gloat .

But from our camp at Berlin-Ichthyosaur we had just enough rain to mess the truck up; and the wonderful covered picnic tables they provide allowed us to sit out...and curse the gnats along with wishing, for the only time since moving to Nevada in 1996, for a bug bomb!

Although the rain quit and eventually cleared off I was hoping to get to sleep by the pitter-patter of rain. Funny how that goes...a couple years ago, while on yet another Explore Nevada trip with Jack & Darcie, I thought I had enough rain while camping and exploring to hold me over for at least a decade or three .

If not for the gnats it would have been a perfect "10 on a 10" score weekend! And even at that our bug netting headgear kept them mostly at bay.

Get out there...way out there!

 

[spressomon]

More photos...

 

[spressomon]

And a few more...

 

[spressomon]

A few more photos including a photo of one of the Sage Grouse we saw back down on the road that bisects the Yomba Indian Reservation...of all places!

And an espresso puck signature showing "I was there". Maybe a few million years from now somebody will ooo and ahhh over the fossilized remains of that espresso puck! Not quite in Ichthyosaur's league!

 

[spressomon]

And a couple photos from the entrance to the park...

After cooking up lamb chops and broccoli rabe (I thought of you Jack... ) with a glass or three of nice red wine and leftover Trader Joe's Cannolis for dessert from the night before we crawled into bed to yet another blissful night's sleep in wild Nevada! Totally quiet.

Sunday morning we packed up, after cappuccinos of course, and headed home to much hotter temps. Oh to be back there camped somewhere under Ophir Pass!

 

[spressomon]

One last thing to add: Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park has to be one of the best, if not the best, parks in our state. Clean, well kept, nice large covered picnic tables, ground water spigots seemingly every 100', super clean and totally unstinky restrooms, again a short walk from any camp site in the park, nice elevation (~7,000') and more. And for only $15 per night (out of state campers pay $17 per night) its a super bargain especially noting most of California's state run campgrounds are $45 per night and more! And they're not as meticulously cared for/managed like Berlin-Ichthyosaur!

So especially in light of our state government revenue issues its wonderful to see Nevada's commitment to camping. to the workers and our legislature that keep parks like this a priority for all of us campers!

 

[CV Kurt]

Great story! Love the photos!

-- Kurt

 

[locrwln1]

Great pics. That area is definitely on my list of places to revisit, I have only touched on it and has much more to offer.

Glad you were thinking of me when you were eating broccolli. As far as I am concerned the only good broccoli is a dead broccoli.

Jack

 

[rusty_tlc]

One last thing to add: Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park has to be one of the best, if not the best, parks in our state. Clean, well kept, nice large covered picnic tables, ground water spigots seemingly every 100', super clean and totally unstinky restrooms, again a short walk from any camp site in the park, nice elevation (~7,000') and more. And for only $15 per night (out of state campers pay $17 per night) its a super bargain especially noting most of California's state run campgrounds are $45 per night and more! And they're not as meticulously cared for/managed like Berlin-Ichthyosaur!

So especially in light of our state government revenue issues its wonderful to see Nevada's commitment to camping. to the workers and our legislature that keep parks like this a priority for all of us campers!

I have found all of the Nevada State run campgrounds to be of a higher caliber than you normally find. Basically on-par with what Spresso describes. There are only a couple we have never camped in.

 

[450 DUDE]

Looks like another success! Killer pics! I could almost smell the fresh NV sage air.
ken

 

[WILLD420]

I have found all of the Nevada State run campgrounds to be of a higher caliber than you normally find. Basically on-par with what Spresso describes. There are only a couple we have never camped in.

I'm passing this thread along to the right people so kudo's will go to the people at Berlin.

 

[spressomon]

I'm passing this thread along to the right people so kudo's will go to the people at Berlin.

Thanks Will! They are most deserving of all recognition based upon what we saw and experienced last weekend. Top notch!