a/c line and coolant question (1 Viewer)

[jondoyle]

I am needing some help on my 97 Land Cruiser. Went to charge the A/C system since is was not blowing cold. During recharge, the A/C discharge line started hissing and leaking some coolant. Attached a picture to show leak. Question, what would cause this? Where do I start on diagnosing and fixing this issue? I want the A/C to be fixed but want to make sure I start in the right spot. Thanks all!

 

[Rusty Marlin]

How long have you been chasing a leak?
That's indicator dye showing where the leak is. It's not coolant.
It's usually UV light sensative to help you find the leak with a UV light.
The fitting should be pulled flat with an o-ring in a recess. The fitting is either bent, or loose; and it appears that the o-ring is missing.
I'd start there. I would also flush the entire system to remove that dye, its acctually a contaminant.
I would open every joint and replace all the o-rings, use Nylog lubricant on the o-rings before replacment. (thank you @flintknapper )
After flushing you will need to add the correct amount of PAG oil for 134a (see FSM).
Be sure to change the dryer.
Do you have a proper set of guages and a fish scale and vacuum pump?

 

[jondoyle]

How long have you been chasing a leak?
That's indicator dye showing where the leak is. It's not coolant.
It's usually UV light sensative to help you find the leak with a UV light.
The fitting should be pulled flat with an o-ring in a recess. The fitting is either bent, or loose; and it appears that the o-ring is missing.
I'd start there. I would also flush the entire system to remove that dye, its acctually a contaminant.
I would open every joint and replace all the o-rings, use Nylog lubricant on the o-rings before replacment. (thank you @flintknapper )
After flushing you will need to add the correct amount of PAG oil for 134a (see FSM).
Be sure to change the dryer.
Do you have a proper set of guages and a fish scale and vacuum pump?

Just started chasing it, bought it in January.
Well I feel dumb thinking it was coolant haha.
I will probably replace parts affected to be safe. O ring is in tact but obviously something cause it to fail.
I do not have proper gauges, fish scale, or vacuum pump, will need to grab those. Any recommendations on those appreciated.
Thanks for help!

 

[family80]

I have a vacuum from Amazon works well and orings you could get at most parts stores

 

[flintknapper]

How long have you been chasing a leak?
That's indicator dye showing where the leak is. It's not coolant.
It's usually UV light sensative to help you find the leak with a UV light.
The fitting should be pulled flat with an o-ring in a recess. The fitting is either bent, or loose; and it appears that the o-ring is missing.
I'd start there. I would also flush the entire system to remove that dye, its acctually a contaminant.
I would open every joint and replace all the o-rings, use Nylog lubricant on the o-rings before replacment. (thank you @flintknapper )
After flushing you will need to add the correct amount of PAG oil for 134a (see FSM).
Be sure to change the dryer.
Do you have a proper set of guages and a fish scale and vacuum pump?

^^^^^

Nothing to add to this. It is spot on.

Find out why the fitting is not fitting flat and then proceed with the rest of the above.

 

[jondoyle]

Thanks everyone!

 

[jpoole]

You can typically borrow all of the specialty AC tools that you need from chain auto parts stores.

I wrote out the parts and process that I followed when I did a full AC system update on my '97 1FZFE 80. You can find more detailed information following what's been laid out in this thread already. I compiled the following from experts on this forum, including ones that have chimed in here

FZJ80, R134A Air Conditioning System Rebuild How To

Thanks to the contributions of many very knowledgeable ih8mud contributors I was able to refresh the AC on my 1997 FZ 80. A few of those contributors surely saved me a lot of time, $$, mistakes and reworking. @flintknapper and @alia176 stand out in my mind though I'm sure there were a number...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jondoyle]

You can typically borrow all of the specialty AC tools that you need from chain auto parts stores.

I wrote out the parts and process that I followed when I did a full AC system update on my '97 1FZFE 80. You can find more detailed information following what's been laid out in this thread already. I compiled the following from experts on this forum, including ones that have chimed in here

FZJ80, R134A Air Conditioning System Rebuild How To

Thanks to the contributions of many very knowledgeable ih8mud contributors I was able to refresh the AC on my 1997 FZ 80. A few of those contributors surely saved me a lot of time, $$, mistakes and reworking. @flintknapper and @alia176 stand out in my mind though I'm sure there were a number...

forum.ih8mud.com

thanks for info, ill use this as well!

 

[Marvelicious]

How long have you been chasing a leak?
That's indicator dye showing where the leak is. It's not coolant.
It's usually UV light sensative to help you find the leak with a UV light.
The fitting should be pulled flat with an o-ring in a recess. The fitting is either bent, or loose; and it appears that the o-ring is missing.
I'd start there. I would also flush the entire system to remove that dye, its acctually a contaminant.
I would open every joint and replace all the o-rings, use Nylog lubricant on the o-rings before replacment. (thank you @flintknapper )
After flushing you will need to add the correct amount of PAG oil for 134a (see FSM).
Be sure to change the dryer.
Do you have a proper set of guages and a fish scale and vacuum pump?

Not to barge in on Jon's thread, but the UV dye is a contaminant? The sell PAG oil with dye included, are you saying it's not a good product? I'm about to get started on my own AC rebuild, and I had intended to use oil with dye, not because I expect leaks, but simply as a potential diagnostic in the future.

 

[flintknapper]

Not to barge in on Jon's thread, but the UV dye is a contaminant? The sell PAG oil with dye included, are you saying it's not a good product? I'm about to get started on my own AC rebuild, and I had intended to use oil with dye, not because I expect leaks, but simply as a potential diagnostic in the future.

You'll be fine IF you just use a PAG oil with dye in it. The percentage of dye to oil can be the trouble when folks/techs inject dye into a system. Too much dye can break down the lubricating ability of the oil.

Using 8 ozs of PAG with dye added is safe enough....as the percentage of dye has been considered (this assumes a newly evacuated and flushed system).

DON'T use things like A/C stop leak.

 

[Marvelicious]

You'll be fine IF you just use a PAG oil with dye in it. The percentage of dye to oil can be the trouble when folks/techs inject dye into a system. Too much dye can break down the lubricating ability of the oil.

Using 8 ozs of PAG with dye added is safe enough....as the percentage of dye has been considered (this assumes a newly evacuated and flushed system).

DON'T use things like A/C stop leak.

Yeah, that makes sense to me and is what I had assumed, but @jpoole 's post kind of caught me off guard. I can see how a general purpose UV dye added to the oil could be an issue (let alone stop-leak).

 

[jpoole]

but @jpoole 's post kind of caught me off guard

Did you mean Rusty Marlin's?

I would also flush the entire system to remove that dye, its acctually a contaminant.

If you did mean something I said caught you off guard let me know what it was, I'm curious.

 

[Marvelicious]

Did you mean Rusty Marlin's?



If you did mean something I said caught you off guard let me know what it was, I'm curious.

Yep, Lol. Apparently scrolling up was too complicated for me last night. Apologies.