A/C compressor purchase options and system replacement (1 Viewer)

[dranven]

While driving my '97, the a/c suddenly shut off along with my dash gauges and windows. I pulled over to a gas station to inspect the engine bay and didn't see anything obvious. I started it again and the belt started making a terrible noise and smoking in the engine bay. From the look of it, it seems the a/c compressor clutch seized and the belt was still trying to turn via the crank pulley causing the smoke.

I've never worked on an a/c system, so that has me a little concerned; however, after reading THIS THREAD, I feel a little more confident if I take my time.

For compressors, there are many places that claim to sell the Denso OEM part for as little as $200, but some have bad reviews. Any recommendations on where to source a reliable part or any other advice before I tackle the system as a whole?

Thanks!

 

[JoeW]

For my '96, I got my compressor, expansion valve, receiver drier and condensor from Rock Auto, all parts were denso, they fit great and have been working flawlessly since.

I did the compressor, exp valve and drier at the same time due to my compressor leaking from every seal and I figured, while i was in there I should do everything else. After I got it charged, i found a pinhole leak in the condenser. AC is nice and cold now.

compressor- 4711166 (471-1166)
expansion valve- 4752005 (475-2005)
receiver drier- 4780503 (478-0503)
condenser- (477-0554)

 

[mattg141]

Toyota dealer online.

1994-2002 Toyota A/C Compressor 88320-60580-84 | McGeorge Toyota Parts

1994-2002 Toyota part # 88320-60580-84 - A/C Compressor

parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

verify the correct part. McGeorge has really good prices.

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, i had the same thing happen to me last month. I bought a "Denso" reman form Napa, with dryer. Both were crap. The dryer had the wrong port bore sizes and locations, the compressor came less the valve and with the pigtail. Valve was no problem, once I (finally) removed my old one, after breaking one bolt and three extractors. (I now have a drill press) The pigtail was an inch too short and I had to create a new one.

Lessons learned:
(1) You get what you pay for. The loss in time the crap parts cost me would have paid for a Toyota part and beer. (x12)
(2) Regardless of what the paperwork that ships with the compressor says, you don't need oil. (I have plenty to spare, if you're within driving distance)
(3) There are only two Toyota O-rings currently in use; the compressor replacement needs one of each (dealers stock them)
(4) The dryer doesn't use either of the two O-rings Toyota keeps in stock that are currently in use. Toyota dryers ship with the two O-rings it needs.
(5) The LP/HP lines to the compressor and the dryer all use the same mounting bolt now. (I'd replace them)
finally,
(6) It's money well spent to have someone else evacuate and pressurize the system. The parts replacement is a job.

 

[dranven]

Thanks guys. So far I've got on the list:

- A/C compressor / clutch assembly (note: McGeorge only sells these separately)
- Expansion valve
- Dehydrator
- Condenser
- Evaporator core

McGeorge (or any other Toyota dealer) is much more expensive than Rock Auto for example, and Rock Auto is claiming Denso parts. Unless I'm misunderstanding, they're supposed to be the same part. I'd like to avoid overspending if possible. Is the consensus that the parts are indeed not the same? Looks like @JoeW had a positive experience with his.

@Malleus, for those o-rings, are you talking about a set like THIS? Also, regarding point #5 you made, I'm assuming you're talking about the nuts 88375 from the diagram?

I can't seem to locate those by part number. Any guidance?

 

[1972FJ55]

The Denso brand parts are extremely reliable, and it will come assembled with a full system charge of oil. I think the four bolts being referred to are the ones holding the plate to the compressor where the hoses attach and yes, they can be a bear. Whichever compressor you buy will come with a shipping plate and you'll need to remove the plate from your original and put it on the new one. Also for O-rings, use Santech kit #MT2580.

 

[SNLC]

These guys have not done me wrong yet.

Cheers

 

[COYS]

For my '96, I got my compressor, expansion valve, receiver drier and condensor from Rock Auto, all parts were denso, they fit great and have been working flawlessly since.

I did the compressor, exp valve and drier at the same time due to my compressor leaking from every seal and I figured, while i was in there I should do everything else. After I got it charged, i found a pinhole leak in the condenser. AC is nice and cold now.

compressor- 4711166 (471-1166)
expansion valve- 4752005 (475-2005)
receiver drier- 4780503 (478-0503)
condenser- (477-0554)

Thanks to the homey @NorCalFJ100 , I sourced the following parts. Top is Rockauto. Bottom is from densoproducts which turns out to be sparkplugs.com that is an authorized denso dealer.

The denso expansion device and evap core are backordered with no eta from denso.

Do any of you have Toyota part #s handy for the two O-rings and the four bolts that need to be replaced? Part #s always helpful.

Thanks.

 

[lumbee1]

I installed Denso compressor ($200 rock auto), dryer ($15 ebay), and expansion port ($20 ebay) back in 2013. The compressor came preoiled with clutch installed. My evap core bolts for expansion valve were galvanized into place and I had to purchase new tubes from the dealership. Evap needed significant cleaning but was reinstalled as is. I didn't touch the condenser.

 

[Malleus]

Thanks guys. So far I've got on the list:

- A/C compressor / clutch assembly (note: McGeorge only sells these separately)
- Expansion valve
- Dehydrator
- Condenser
- Evaporator core

McGeorge (or any other Toyota dealer) is much more expensive than Rock Auto for example, and Rock Auto is claiming Denso parts. Unless I'm misunderstanding, they're supposed to be the same part. I'd like to avoid overspending if possible. Is the consensus that the parts are indeed not the same? Looks like @JoeW had a positive experience with his.

@Malleus, for those o-rings, are you talking about a set like THIS? Also, regarding point #5 you made, I'm assuming you're talking about the nuts 88375 from the diagram?

View attachment 2417723

I can't seem to locate those by part number. Any guidance?

First:
@1972FJ55 is correct, those are the bolts that gave me fits; to be more correct only one of them, but hey, you've got to get all four out...

Second:
1) No, that O-ring kit isn't what I was referring to; that looks like the compressor O-ring kit, which is for the internals. The LP/HP O-rings are not sold in a kit, in bulk, that I know of. Just go the the dealer and get them. They won't cost more that $5 for the pair. Bear in mind though, that they are different sizes.

2) The bolts in point 5 are not the nuts in your diagram, those are for the bleed screw valves. The bolts I was referring to in point 5 are the LP/HP hold down bolts.
LP/HP hose ends to compressor: 91662-60632 (x2)
DRYER: 90119-06553 (x2)
(these are on parts diagram 87-18, page 2) (ignore my comment about the four bolts being the same part number; it's changed again; the part numbers I cited are what's in the catalog today)

FWIW, the most important point I made was number 1.

As a further aside, the dryer O-rings are green, the LP/HP hose end connections to the compressor are black. The color used to mean something (black for natural/nitrile rubber, green for Viton, red for nuclear applications...), but apparently that went out the window with Chinese sourcing programs; they're all black now. Given that these O-rings have to seal hydraulic fluid (which is what is cruising around in there), they should be Viton. I'm told they all are.

 

[COYS]

Just wanted to report back that the two denso backordered parts are now shipping to me. if you want in, may be worth swiping that paypal account.

 

[COYS]

First:
@1972FJ55 is correct, those are the bolts that gave me fits; to be more correct only one of them, but hey, you've got to get all four out...

Second:
1) No, that O-ring kit isn't what I was referring to; that looks like the compressor O-ring kit, which is for the internals. The LP/HP O-rings are not sold in a kit, in bulk, that I know of. Just go the the dealer and get them. They won't cost more that $5 for the pair. Bear in mind though, that they are different sizes.

2) The bolts in point 5 are not the nuts in your diagram, those are for the bleed screw valves. The bolts I was referring to in point 5 are the LP/HP hold down bolts.
LP/HP hose ends to compressor: 91662-60632 (x2)
DRYER: 90119-06553 (x2)
(these are on parts diagram 87-18, page 2) (ignore my comment about the four bolts being the same part number; it's changed again; the part numbers I cited are what's in the catalog today)

FWIW, the most important point I made was number 1.

As a further aside, the dryer O-rings are green, the LP/HP hose end connections to the compressor are black. The color used to mean something (black for natural/nitrile rubber, green for Viton, red for nuclear applications...), but apparently that went out the window with Chinese sourcing programs; they're all black now. Given that these O-rings have to seal hydraulic fluid (which is what is cruising around in there), they should be Viton. I'm told they all are.

View attachment 2418014

So to install all these parts...

I need also these OEM bits + o-rings? What's the qty and part numbers for the o-rings? Just trying to be reference friendly for others. thx!

(3) There are only two Toyota O-rings currently in use; the compressor replacement needs one of each (dealers stock them) part #?
(4) The dryer doesn't use either of the two O-rings Toyota keeps in stock that are currently in use. Toyota dryers ship with the two O-rings it needs. What if it's a denso dryer? part #?
(5) The LP/HP lines to the compressor and the dryer all use the same mounting bolt now. (I'd replace them)
finally, LP/HP hose ends to compressor: 91662-60632 (x2) and DRYER: 90119-06553 (x2)

 

[wfd175]

When I upgraded my system to 134 I replaced all components except the lines. I used Nylog Blue on all the connections. Don’t know if it helped, but I broke every connection and switched all the o-rings to green from 4/93 oem. Didn’t have one leak when I pulled it down with the vacuum pump. Been 2 years.

I did buy two boxes of assorted green o rings from o Riley
As I swapped them out, I matched them
Up with like kind thickness and diameter.

The point is while you have it apart, try the nylog blue. Read it in another thread. I think it was good advice

 

[Schmutz]

Hey guys, I'm revisiting this thread because I suddenly find myself looking at AC. Mine recently quit working. Just spent two afternoons with a mate who does AC. We discharged and evacuated the entire system, recharged and did a step-by-step troubleshoot. So far all fingers point to the Expansion Valve (TXV) -it seems to be blocked. Of course I can order a Denso replacement from Rock Auto, Amazon or elsewhere. BTW, thanks for the part numbers above as a reference.

Here's my question: if I'm replacing only the TXV -do I need any gaskets or O-rings for that exercise? (Provided I can unbolt the sucker ) Thats the tid-bit of intel that I'm struggling to confirm. TIA for your help