98 5vz-fe loud tapping/knocking advise needed

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Joined
Apr 16, 2002
Threads
31
Messages
145
Location
So. Calif. (Moreno Valley)
Howdy Folks.

I need some help on finding a loud tapping/light knocking sound coming from my newly purchased 1998 4Runner for my soon to be, first time driver, son. A little back ground on me, I am a former automotive tech with lots of skill's (or so I thought), lots of tools and a shop at my house.

I bought this REALLY clean 1998 4Runner with 178,000 miles cheap from a used car lot becuse of this engine noise. The car runs great with good power, no mis fires and it did NOT overheat on the 30 mile drive home. I have no service history on the vehicle other than a sticker under the hood indicating that the timing belt was changed about 6 months and 5,000 miles ago and a super clean motor on the inside, more on that later.

The noise doesn't start until the engine has been running for a few minutes. The noise is a very loud ticking, nearly on the verg of being a knocking sound. It sounds like its coming from towards the rear of the engine about in the middle or a little towars the drivers side. It sounds like its coming from above the rods and below the valve train. I Know, its weird. The noise completely goes away at 1,000 rpms if I put it in gear and load the engine. In neutral if I raise the rpm's the noise is still there, but a lot less.

In the last two days of owning this thing, this is what I've done thus far, in this order.

1. I pulled the oil pan, screen and windage tray. All 6 rod bearings were tight in every direction. I pulled one rod cap and both the bearing and journal looked great. The crank thrust looked good. No obvious signs of problems. There were only 6 flakes of metal in the bottom of the pan and no sluge or signs of abuse or neglect.
2. I inspected 360 degrees of the flex plate and seen no visable signs of cracking, from what I could see.
3. I pulled both valve covers and measured the valve clearance on all 24 valves. All valves were within spec. All cam lobes looked great as did all gears. No obvious signs of problems.
4. I made sure the timing belt was timed correctly.
5. I changed the oil and filter to 10W-30. I cut the filter open and found another 6 flakes of metal in the filter media.
6. I put the engine back together.

The only thing left to inspect is the pistons, wrist pins, small end of the rod and rings. I know this series of engine can be a little noisey, this single tick is more than that.

Does anyone have any ideas on what to check before I pull the thing out and blast it apart?
Is there any guru's that you know of on this series motor whom I could ask their opinion?

I could get a used engine and install it, but this engine (and vehicle) is SOOOO clean inside and out and well taken care of that I hate to replace it. If used is the way to got, where is the best place to buiy used?

Thank You in advance for your help

Randy
ntoracn@yahoo.com
Riverside, Calif.
 
I use mid grade or high test to eliminate engine knock in my Tacoma with same motor. As soon as I run 97 octane it starts knocking again. I would try this and see if it helps. If not, you're over my head. :-)

When I first purchased the vehicle (new) they recommended that I run mid to high test fuel in it for this reason.

At $3.25/gal (today's ATL price) for mid grade, this is not an easy proposition for a young driver who doesn't have a thick wallet. But, it might very well be the source of your knock. I hope it is, because it's an easy fix.

S
 
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I use mid grade or high test to eliminate engine knock in my Tacoma with same motor. As soon as I run 97 octane it starts knocking again. I would try this and see if it helps. If not, you're over my head. :-)

When I first purchased the vehicle (new) they recommended that I run mid to high test fuel in it for this reason.

At $3.25/gal (today's ATL price) for mid grade, this is not an easy proposition for a young driver who doesn't have a thick wallet. But, it might very well be the source of your knock. I hope it is, because it's an easy fix.

S

Thanks for the advice, I wish it were that simple. I'm gonna keep digging.
 
Saw the vid. Hope you didn't bust your camera - lol.

I'm perplexed. These are notoriously noisy motors already but I've never heard that noise in mine before.

I must transfer you to Level 2 technical assistance. Hold please....
 
My last trick is ti disconnect the torque converter and the drive belts to see if that eliminates the noise. That will pretty much issolate the motor by itself and if the noise continues, the noise has to be coming from something inside.
 
I unbolted the torque converter and removed all the drive belts and I still had the noise. That pretty much eliminates everything except for something deep inside the motor. I'm gonna have to pull the motor and rebuild it or find a good used motor to install. I'm a little bummed, but that's the chance I took when I bought it
 
Sorry to hear about the extra work. It sounds like it won't be too hard for you though. I hope you'll post up what you find.
 
I had bought one a while back and it developed an intermittent tick and only after it warmed up for say 20 minutes at least.
Your video sounds a bit louder than mine did but I can relate to the tick sounding as though it was clsoe to the top end valve train but a bit lower. i would listen from the bottom and it sure didn't sound like a bottom end tick either.
I changed from the Mobil 5W30 synthetic the previous owner had and just put in the Toyota regular 5W30 which is Esso as far as I know.
I even thought, well the timing belt was changed on mine so is that the problem in that a strip was loose and hitting something or what??
I jumped to the next conclusion for me... mine was intermittent and if the engine blows up I will most likely buy a used complete engine from a wrecker and put it in. i think $1000 buys a wreckers engine with a warranty and that seems a bunch less than tearing down an engine, the cost of a new set of gaskets, bearings, rings, machining cylinders and so on.
You have really went in pretty deep already..good on ya!

So maybe it is a small end rod bearing ... but the cost to find out is basically a rebuild cause if you are in that far.. :)
I thought of my own ..well an exhaust leak can tick, timing belt wacking something, stuck valve train component, an injector even, a cracked or broken ring ???

My next step was going to figure out the frequency of the tick to see if it was equal to the engine rpm, half , quarter or what as that may isolate certain components as well. Perhaps just on a compression stroke, an exhaust stroke or ??? Maybe put a timing light on to see what it is in synch with which cylinder.

At any rate mine came and went.... hoping it was just a stuck lifter .. it might come back again I don't know. I was going to check compression numbers wet and dry, maybe borrow a borscope and try to get a visual inside the cylinders for any abnormal wear or marks on the liners...
I am going to sleep on your tick as putting the load on it sure seemed to calm it. hmmm :hhmm: wondering which way the thrust is and how does that change what ...
 
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Randy
another thing i learned is that if I give the VIN# to my local Toyota dealer they can search to see if it has been serviced by any other dealers in my state/province. Not sure what service program your state dealers utilize but you might be able to get a history of what it was in for and where?
Also a Carproof or CarFax report can tell you where it has been registered and any insurance claims if done above board. Not a 100% thing but can lead you to something.
I also look at the owners manual if it came with as often the original purchasers name and even address is written in it somewhere or a receipt for something with a date and or location it was purchased at.
Is there a dealer name or tech name on the timing belt changed sticker?

Thicker oil may not be the answer if something is gummed up and not getting enough oil pressure. ie a lifter. I know you said it was super clean but...
I would maybe drive it some, go on a half day highway trip and let the thing run. Could blow up but maybe it will quit ticking.
 
Randy
another thing i learned is that if I give the VIN# to my local Toyota dealer they can search to see if it has been serviced by any other dealers in my state/province. Not sure what service program your state dealers utilize but you might be able to get a history of what it was in for and where?
Also a Carproof or CarFax report can tell you where it has been registered and any insurance claims if done above board. Not a 100% thing but can lead you to something.
I also look at the owners manual if it came with as often the original purchasers name and even address is written in it somewhere or a receipt for something with a date and or location it was purchased at.
Is there a dealer name or tech name on the timing belt changed sticker?

Thicker oil may not be the answer if something is gummed up and not getting enough oil pressure. ie a lifter. I know you said it was super clean but...
I would maybe drive it some, go on a half day highway trip and let the thing run. Could blow up but maybe it will quit ticking.

Thanks for your reply. This one isn't going to fix itself. My son and I pulled the motor out today and I'm hoping to blast it apart tomorrow to finally find once and for all what the noise is. I'm thinking its a bad wrist pin. We shall see. I'll let you guys know what I find.
 
At $3.25/gal (today's ATL price) for mid grade, this is not an easy proposition for a young driver who doesn't have a thick wallet. But, it might very well be the source of your knock. I hope it is, because it's an easy fix.

S

I understand your pain. I've begun fueling up at a half-tank, and alternating between low and high grade, saving about 3 bucks a tank total versus buying straight mid-grade.
 
Well its completely apart. Its a complex little motor with alot of nice pieces. This motor rebuild would NOT be for a beginner. The good news is I found someone had installed two new cylinder heads. The bores still had the factory crosshatch patern through all/most of the bores and there is no ridge. The crank and bearings looked good as did the rods. The bad news is, when it overheated, it scuffed two pistons pretty bad. There are also some "hot spots" on the cylinder walls.

I need to get the stuff to a machine shop for cleaning and inspection. I will then have to weigh my options on what I'm gonna do.

I took some pictures during the tear down, mostly for hose and wiring routing. I may try to document the assemble, since most parts will be cleaner than coming apart and I won't foul up my digi camera. More to come.
 
The bores still had the factory crosshatch patern through all/most of the bores and there is no ridge. The crank and bearings looked good as did the rods. The bad news is, when it overheated, it scuffed two pistons pretty bad. There are also some "hot spots" on the cylinder walls.

I need to get the stuff to a machine shop for cleaning and inspection. I will then have to weigh my options on what I'm gonna do.

More to come.
Well I'm certainly curious as to what conclusion you arrive at on this tick. Piston slap then? I would think this would be worse when cold and reduce when warm..??
I assume at least 2 new pistons at this point and how far do you go on the rebuild?
Keep us posted please and good luck! :cheers:
 
I was going to suggest water pump issues, but sounds like it may be more complex.

Good luck,

BTW, check the AC idler pulley as they go bad if you run through a lot of mud...
 
I have the 5vze as well...
mine is making a very slight tick...
but thought it was likely the valve adj.

On different note...

my pos dd, Daewoo Nubira, recently developed a loud ticking just like heard in yer clip...
seemed to quiet down when on throttle, under load...
* and the engine didn't start ticking until it warmed up some

and of course I was thinking of the worst thing first...
before looking for the simple stuff. doh

Come to find out... was an exhaust leak off the exhaust manifold.

Just sayin'... cause sometimes we miss the simple things.
 
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