97 FZJ80 Rear brake overhaul

[Otamiway]

I am about to overhaul my rear brakes

Cryo Power Slot rotors
OEM tear pads
E-Brake overhaul package

All OEM parts courtesy of Beno

Pics and details to follow



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[Marcus1983]

I am about to jump into the same project. I am curious -- was the Ebrake package something you put together or did Onur have a set list of recommended overhaul parts? I was planning to tear everything apart to see what I needed to replace.

 

[Otamiway]

I am about to jump into the same project. I am curious -- was the Ebrake package something you put together or did Onur have a set list of recommended overhaul parts? I was planning to tear everything apart to see what I needed to replace.

I started with this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/135349-parking-brake.html

Then I looked at my rear ebrake to see what i needed. Then I called Onur(Beno), put together a lest and ordered the parts I needed.

He may have saved the list.

Stu

 

[OGBeno]

I started with this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/135349-parking-brake.html

Then I looked at my rear ebrake to see what i needed. Then I called Onur(Beno), put together a lest and ordered the parts I needed.

He may have saved the list.

Stu

Saved just for you Stu.

 

[Otamiway]

Saved just for you Stu.

Thanks Onur.. I have a feeling that you will need that list soon

 

[Otamiway]

Pictures of the rotors I am going with.







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[IanB]

Nice rotors! I had a set cryotreated in the past (new OEM sent out for cryotreatment), I had lots of issues with warping and going through pads in 20,000kms or less on that car. Those rotors never let me down, and pads started lasting much longer.

 

[Otamiway]

So over the weekend I started the over haul. Since my rig was from the north east I armed myself with a cut off wheel and a can of PB Buster.

Dismantling the e-brake shoes were routine.

Tip - If you ate not familiar with the setup, do one side at a time using the other side a reference

Dismantling the cable linkage required surgery.



Cutting off the inner cable. Note the broken pivot housing bolt (dont forget to order 4 of these just in case)



What's left of the inner cable



the bullet shaped pin (on the right side of the picture) holds the outer cable to the lever



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[Otamiway]

More pictures

The old lever and inner cable with spring




The New lever, boot, lever housing and inner cable with spring



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[Otamiway]

So everything went back together nicely.

I now proceeded to re-install the outer cables.

Who knew there was an e-brake equalizer?? Needless to say it rusted solid.

So I called Beno for more parts.


Left side



Right side



Center - equalizer


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[Otamiway]

I also realised that the frozen equalizer caused the right side e-brake shoes to be eaten down... So yes i order a set from Beno..

Since I have to go back in there, I am also rebuilding both rear calipers..

I will post a combined parts list soon.

 

[Blackdog]

While you are in there

While you are in that deep you might as well go ahead and pull the axle out and replace the outer axle seal. You just put a LOT of money into the new brake set-up. I had to replace all the same parts two weeks ago because a six dollar axle seal leaked diff-juice all over my pads, shoes, rotor....... The axle seal is TOO easy to replace not to do it as a precaution. If one were to leak all over those nice new rotors and contaminate them...I would be sick for you.

 

[Otamiway]

Thanks Blackdog

Thats a great idea. I should do a repack as well to complete the rear end job.

Since my intention is to do the complete front rebuild next, birf, bearing, seals, rotors etc, its only prudent to button up the rear properly.

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[jamisobe]

Repacking the bearings and changing the rotors on the rear is much easier than the front.

Im surprised that you went with the cheap organic pads after dropping the cash on those sweet rotors. The main advantage of the slotted rotor is even wear with the more aggressive pads that would otherwise cause OEM rotors to groove rather quickly. Especially with the cryo'd powerslots. You'll get 5Xs the longevity of OEM rotors and you could also take advantage of the pad life/increase in performance provided by premium semi metallics or metallics. Not as big of a deal on the rear though.

 

[Otamiway]

Thanks Jamisobe.

Great points on the use of high end pads.

I have run this combo before with great results albeit a different truck.

I intend to run the same combo up front (100 pads)

I can always switch.
Stu

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[Otamiway]

Update :
Finally got around to installing the rear caliper rebuild kits from Beno. After having the brackets and calipers sand blasted, i painted them with black caliper paint and installed the rebuild kit. Everything went together with ease. I used a friends vacuum brake bleeder. It was so easy to use.
I also replaced the e-brake shoes and the Equalizer pieces. Now I have killer e-brakes.
Note: If your e-brake is not performing as you would like, check that the equalizer is moving like it should. This is where the cable from the cab meets the cable that run the length of the axle

Pictures below

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[Otamiway]

Pictures











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[Wheelingnoob]

Anyone know if CDAN has this same list for the rear e-brake parts? My rear e brake is non op. Looks like they seized on and the break shoe material got totally removed (pre my ownership).

 

[Otamiway]

Anyone know if CDAN has this same list for the rear e-brake parts? My rear e brake is non op. Looks like they seized on and the break shoe material got totally removed (pre my ownership).

He should have the same information....same company different locations.

GL

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[photomike]

What pads should be run with these rotors? Are they that much better than OEM?

I have the regular PS rotors on our V70 and like them very much. Found the cryo'd LC rotors for $120 ea.

Cheers,
Mike