'96 Taco front diff repair

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Joined
Feb 1, 2010
Threads
5
Messages
12
Location
N KY
I have the feeling that I have at least one bad bearing in my front diff. I just emptied the diff fluid, and replaced. The old stuff was funky and smelly, having been in there for 15 years and 150K miles... but the shavings on the magnet were very fine, no slivers, and did not seem to be unusual for the amount of miles. I don't use the 4WD[URL="http://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png"][URL="http://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png"][/URL][/URL] very often, and when I do it is only for very short duration, like maybe a 100 yards or less.

However, the last time I did use the 4WD extensively, I drove it about 15 miles, and the front diff overheated on the way home. I had to pull off the road and remove the front prop shaft to finish the final 2 miles to home or put up with a nasty scraping noise coming from the front end. The 4WD lever was stuck, and I could not get it out of 4WD, otherwise I would just shift out to 2WD. I suspect that the bearing problem had something to do with that shifting problem, as I shifted out to 2WD immeaditely after disconnecting the prop shaft.

Anyway, after getting it home, I put it up on jack stands. Turning the front diff by hand with the prop shaft taken off gives me a slight grinding noise/feeling... not smooth at all, but not locked up. The diff does turn, although not smoothly. I drained the fluid in expectation of seeing metal slivers... but there were none. So I refilled the unit and sealed it up... but I have not yet reinstalled the front prop shaft, as I want to take apart the diff and repair it.

I have never undertaken a repair of this nature but I am fairly mechanical and have a warm garage. I was wondering if there is any help on this forum as to what steps need to be taken to remove the diff, replace the bearings, setup the diff, then reassemble. A pictorial piece would be nice.

This is not a daily driver, so I don't mind having it torn down for a few weeks. I understand that setting up the repaired diff is tricky, so I am thinking about just doing the removal and reassemble and getting some experienced help with the actual bearing replacement (and whatever other repair might be necessary). If I were to take the diff out and deliver it to a mechanic, what might I expect to pay in labor to do the repair and setup?

Any help in this endeavor would be greatly appreciated.

Thx in advance...
 
Few things I missed - did the truck make the same noise without the prop shaft?

You couldn't physically shift the case out of 4wd or the dash light wouldn't go off?

Have you pulled the CVs and then turned the diff?

Is there any play that may warrant a bad wheel bearing?

I pulled and delivered a front diff for a bearing replacement.$70 in parts, $280 in labor. It hurt.
 
Hi All:

Since you've mentioned that this rig is not a daily driver, I'd say pull the front chunk (third member) and inspect it.

If the front diff is trashed, often an economical repair is to swap-in another good, used front diff.

If you want to learn how to set-up Toyota ring & pinions, check this out:

http://www.gearinstalls.com/

Good luck!

Alan
 
answers to questions about diff problem

Few things I missed -
did the truck make the same noise without the prop shaft? NO

You couldn't physically shift the case out of 4wd or the dash light wouldn't go off? I COULD SHIFT, BUT SHIFTER WOULD NEVER 'POP' INTO GEAR AND WOULD RETURN TO 4WD AND LIGHT WOULD TURN BACK ON... TRIED BACKING UP, ETC. TO NO AVAIL TRIED A NUMBER OF TIMES TO SHIFT IT OUT OF 4WD... I HAD A HEAVY LOAD OF SPLIT OAK IN THE BED WHICH MIGHT HAVE MADE SOME DIFFERENCE, BUT I THINK A BEARING PROBLEM PUT SOME LOAD ON THE DIFF THAT PRECLUDED IT FROM SHIFTING... I DROVE IT ABOUT A MILE THROUGH A FIELD IN 4WD WHILE GATHERING FIREWOOD... AND THAT IS WHEN THE SHIFTING PROBLEM STARTED... NORMALLY I ONLY USE 4WD FOR VERY SHORT (50-60 FEET) PERIODS AS I LIVE ON A STEEP HILL AND SOMETIMES NEED TO GET AROUND THE PROPERTY IN SLIPPERY CONDITIONS OR TO PULL SOMEONE OUT OF A DITCH :steer:

Have you pulled the CVs and then turned the diff? JACKED WHEELS OFF GROUND, HAD ASSISTANT HOLD ONE TIRE... THE 4WD SEEMS TO WORK WHEN I SHIFT IT IN (NO ENGINE POWER AND FRT PROP SHAFT OFF) AND HAND TURN THE FRT DIFF... HAVE NOT TAKEN ANYTHING APART YET

Is there any play that may warrant a bad wheel bearing? JUST SERVICED BEARINGS NOT LONG AGO... TACO DRIVES FINE NO NOISE IN 2WD, I HAVE DRIVEN IT ON THE INTERSTATE WITH NO PROBLEM IN 2WD WITHOUT FRONT PROP SHAFT

IT REALLY DOES SOUND/FEEL LIKE A BAD BEARING IN THE DIFF WHEN I TURN IT BY HAND

If you want to learn how to set-up Toyota ring & pinions, check this out:

http://www.gearinstalls.com/
THAT IS A GREAT site...
this site I found great pics of the diff...
http://www.gearinstalls.com/kent.htm

After further reading several places question the gear ratio... How can I figure the gear ratio without taking the diff apart? Any markings on the diff that I can see?

I might look for a boneyard replacement... '96 2.7 liter, std body... it also appears that maybe the 4Runner shares the same front diff???

I want my cake and eat it too... I don't want to take it apart and put it up on jack stands until I know what my cost options are... as I said it works fine in 2WD... I haul water with it... about 2100# (250 Gals.) at a time for my home... and it has been dry so far this fall... the 4WD is a luxury that I only use very occasionally... however when I need 4WD it is necessary.


thx again everyone for the input... :cheers:
 
Toyota didn't do a very good job of listing the gear ratio on a tag or anything, there are some websites that have some good info on breaking down the VIN and finding out that way. A third Gen runner diff will be the same thing so that's an option for ya. Sorry I can't be more help.

Sent from my detachment from reality.
 
There are a few different types of diffs they used too. Some early Tacoma's had manual locking hubs and some used the auto axle disconnect system. I suspect yours is the latter. Not being able to shift out of 4WD could be something with the disconnect actuator but it could have also been because of the load. If the rear tires were significantly flattened by the load and it was in a relatively high traction situation the difference in height front to rear could make it impossible to disengage 4WD with the lever. If it's not your DD I would take the diff out and have a look. As long as there isn't any issues with the actual ring and pinion repairing what you have would probably be cheaper than a used diff. And a used diff you won't know the history of either.
 
Usually you can identify gear ratios by the paint color on the pinion flange. You need the front to match the rear. So I'd check the rear if it were me and I were replacing the front. I'm not sure I'd care all that much what the old front was because it's much more important that it match the rear than match the old front.

Anyway,

Purple = 3.42
Pink = 4.10
Orange = 4.11
Blue = 4.30
Green = 4.37
Yellow = 4.56
White = 4.88

Those are the most common ratios. The paint will be on the end of the flange that will not be visible without separating the ujoint flange from the pinion flange.

You can also figure out ratio with the vin number. The ratio is also engraved on the ring gear.
 

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