'96 4Runner diff drop question..

[mabrodis]

For those that have installed a diff-drop...how exactly did that work? I've seen the pieces in pictures, but haven't ordered yet, but while under the vehicle last night I realized the front driveshaft is *very* close to the rack/pinion steering...soo...how can you lower it unless you lower the rack/pinion also? Curious about that...

I'm piecing my lift together and want to get it all figured out ahead of time...likely going with Tundra coils in the front, FZJ80 coils in the rear, etc...

Thanks,
Mark Brodis

 

[FlatlandTRD]

...soo...how can you lower it unless you lower the rack/pinion also? Curious about that...

Because it doesn't actually lower it. It only pivots the front of the diff down, and angles the pinion upward. People claim it will save your CVs, but it's really just something to make you feel better. Don't waste your money. You'll only loose ground clearance, have to mod your skid, and you'll later take it out. If CVs start snapping, you've got other problems (i.e. skinny pedal finesse).

But otherwise your lift plans sound good. Of course we'll need pictures!

 

[mabrodis]

Huh...well thanks for the heads up...I didn't think it lost ground clearance since you could still put the factory skid-plate back on...but maybe that was with the 1/2" drop, versus the 1" drop ones...I did see the no-loss-of-ground-clearance thing mentioned on one of the listings...

What I'm really debating is whether I want to go with coil-overs (i.e. Sway-A-Way RaceRunner 2.5" likely) or just normal shocks (or OME front struts) and Tundra springs. I really like the coil-overs, just from the perspective of being rebuildable, adjustable, etc...but they are more expensive ofcourse...maybe would last longer...I don't have any visions of baja racing, but I've seen my brother's LR Discovery with some very nice remote resivour Fox racing shocks and you could jump that damn thing with no problems, it is insane how good those shocks are...I'd love to get mine to handle atleast some of that...

 

[Bighead]

Even with the 1" diff drop spacers you won't lose ground clearance or lose use of the stock skidplate. You will have to cut a few spots on the plate to make a room for the rotated diff.

As for the front suspension, I am running OME struts with Tundra coils and really like the ride both on and off-road. If you decide to go the coilover route, take a look at the Donahoe's also.

 

[FlatlandTRD]

Guess I should have been more specific, but as for lift, if you have the money go with coil-overs. I really like my progressive rate tundra coils though.

In order to notice any effective change at the CV, the diff needs to pivot 1.5" or more. FYI, if your inner boot fins are contacting even a 2" pivot won't change that (it's been measured and documented).

A 1" pivot requires 1" longer bolts for the front of the skid (i.e. lowering it!), and the rear mounts will now be at an angle requiring either spacers or to force them in. If you have to cut out structural support or part of the skid, just leave it off. But the skid will be lowered to maintain a safe clearance between the two!

The CVs are too close to the pivot point to notice/gain any benefit. But by rotating/pivoting your diff, you also change the pinion angle (which is why they are no longer recommended on '05-up=vibrations), you put more stress on the rear mount and bushing, more stress on the u-joints, and bring the diff closer to the x-member.

I don't get paid either way. But those selling the kits do, hence the reason they sound soooo beneficial. If you need more lift, look into a 1" or less BL. If you have to jump your junk, get something else. If you still have to jump, check out desert tech... http://www.ttora.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=186

I hope this is beneficial, just don't want others to fall into the same waste of time/money others have. If you really need to spend more money, buy polyurethane steering rack bushings ~$20.

 

[Mars]

Guess I should have been more specific, but as for lift, if you have the money go with coil-overs. I really like my progressive rate tundra coils though.

In order to notice any effective change at the CV, the diff needs to pivot 1.5" or more. FYI, if your inner boot fins are contacting even a 2" pivot won't change that (it's been measured and documented).

A 1" pivot requires 1" longer bolts for the front of the skid (i.e. lowering it!), and the rear mounts will now be at an angle requiring either spacers or to force them in. If you have to cut out structural support or part of the skid, just leave it off. But the skid will be lowered to maintain a safe clearance between the two!

The CVs are too close to the pivot point to notice/gain any benefit. But by rotating/pivoting your diff, you also change the pinion angle (which is why they are no longer recommended on '05-up=vibrations), you put more stress on the rear mount and bushing, more stress on the u-joints, and bring the diff closer to the x-member.

I don't get paid either way. But those selling the kits do, hence the reason they sound soooo beneficial. If you need more lift, look into a 1" or less BL. If you have to jump your junk, get something else. If you still have to jump, check out desert tech... http://www.ttora.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=186

I hope this is beneficial, just don't want others to fall into the same waste of time/money others have. If you really need to spend more money, buy polyurethane steering rack bushings ~$20.

Good info here...and basically sums up what I've read/heard/seen about diff drops. Just throwing on my x2.

 

[EggsnBacon]

I thought that the transfer case was slightly higher than the front diff, meaning that rotating it would decrease pinion angles, right? How were those measurements made on the 2" diff drop kit? Its hard to measure such slight angle changes without specialty tools. Also, my stock skid plate turned into aluminum foil a while ago so I'm having a custom one built by Redline Landcruisers, thankfully I wont need to worry about that. What is recommended? Should I just swap the hubs out for manuals to get some more reliability? I'm running about 3" of lift on the toytec coilovers on stock lower control arms and am trying to get some TCF uppers. I am trying to find better cv boots so they wont rip anymore, and have a 1" diff drop kit to put in. Will these mods be enough for reliable axles or should I break down and start saving for a long travel kit?


Like everyone else in the world, I want to eventually do an SAS but I think thats a ways off.

 

[XT Toyota]

Diff drop as mentioned is a waste, many have tried it and then simply removed it as it's useless for long term solution(s).

 

[theferg]

I've got an '02 4Runner with the Tundra coils and Bilstein 5100s up front and LX450 coils in the rear. I also have Sonoran Steel rear swaybar relocation kit and SS adjustable rear panhard bar, extended brake lines, and SS 1" diff drop kit.

I initially didn't install the diff drop kit but I did end up putting it in in an attempt to track down a front end vibration, which was thought to possibly be the angle of my CVs as they made a bit of noise when we were checking the truck out with it up on a lift. I didn't bother with putting the whimpy stock skid plate back on and went straight for a budbuilt skid. Anyway, the vibration ended up being out of balance tires (which took me back to discount tire 3 times to actually finally get it right...) and the noise from the CVs was just the rubber boots (greased the outside of them a bit and they quieted down). So, what I'm trying to say is, I've got the 1" diff drop in and its just fine, but I'm 99% sure it was just fine without it. You really don't lose a whole lot of ground clearance. The kits are only ~$25 bucks and super easy to install so no big deal either way (just keep your stock parts you take off in case you wanna go back LOL)

As for the tundra coils/shocks vs coil overs: I thought about it a lot but at the price of coil overs, plus new UCAs I woulda been about 75% of the cost towards a SAS which is ultimately what I would like to do with mine. Obviously if you're gonna be desert racing or jumping your 4runner custom IFS is the way to go.

Anyway, guess I'll be done rambling for now... LOL

-Ferg-

 

[XT Toyota]

I too have CV "fin" noise but just end up dealing with it. I wanted to use grease or lube but unless it is PTFE the debris that collects on the lubricant will prematurely wear out the boots as it slowly "cuts" through the rubber. I run 33X9.5X15's and tried to balance the tires with wheel weights and it never was satisfactory. Try balancing beads as they will compensate for wear and debris in the tread blocks and result in a "balanced tire" most all the time.

 

[EggsnBacon]

I got it for 20 bucks, Ill just throw it in when Im putting the skidplate on.