94 Prado 1KZ-TE Fuel Injector Pump (4 Viewers)

[dspy8083]

Hello All! My first post here, I'm Daniel and I live in the Chicago area. I am doing a motor swap and decided to put in a new fuel injector pump, despite my old one having no issues (the might as well's will kill you).

Anyways, I noticed the same part numbers (22100-67070) have different accessories in comparing my original to the new one; electronic vs. mechanical/throttle activated. I would like to add some power and don't doing some mods, as well as I'd prefer to be dependent on scarce parts in the USA.

Does anyone here know of a thread, manual, or info that goes into detail on switching over from the electronic fuel injector pump to the mechanical one? I've been searching and I am not coming up with good results. Or, am I better off swapping all of the electronic sensors/solenoids over to the new pump?

Thank you again!

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Something is not right with that new pump. -67070 should be an EFI pump. Your new pump is a mechanical pump and the ID tag looks fake to me. Or rather, it looks unbranded (though carrying Toyota and Denso part numbers). I'm guessing it's made with Chinese parts if it's an ebay wonder, but maybe it's made in the USA with Bosch parts. The cover plate and governor adjusting arm do not look like Denso parts to me.

People swap manual pumps in to get rid of the ECU and other electrical EFI components, and to be able to tune the engine for more performance. To buy a new fuel injection pump just because you feel like it is an odd choice, these things rarely go wrong.

I take it you mean that you '...prefer [not] to be dependent on scarce parts in the USA'. Any imported diesel parts are going to be scarce, so I am not sure it makes a big difference which way you go.

To me it sounds like you'd be better off sticking with your old pump, but if you want to try the conversion, I found this thread on MUD after searching for a few seconds: 1kz-te to mechanical pump - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1kz-te-to-mechanical-pump.487667/ A three second glance at the two pumps can tell you that you're not going to get the electrical components from your original pump to bolt into the new mechanical pump.

 

[dspy8083]

Something is not right with that new pump. -67070 should be an EFI pump. Your new pump is a mechanical pump and the ID tag looks fake to me. Or rather, it looks unbranded (though carrying Toyota and Denso part numbers). I'm guessing it's made with Chinese parts if it's an ebay wonder, but maybe it's made in the USA with Bosch parts. The cover plate and governor adjusting arm do not look like Denso parts to me.

People swap manual pumps in to get rid of the ECU and other electrical EFI components, and to be able to tune the engine for more performance. To buy a new fuel injection pump just because you feel like it is an odd choice, these things rarely go wrong.

I take it you mean that you '...prefer [not] to be dependent on scarce parts in the USA'. Any imported diesel parts are going to be scarce, so I am not sure it makes a big difference which way you go.

To me it sounds like you'd be better off sticking with your old pump, but if you want to try the conversion, I found this thread on MUD after searching for a few seconds: 1kz-te to mechanical pump - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1kz-te-to-mechanical-pump.487667/ A three second glance at the two pumps can tell you that you're not going to get the electrical components from your original pump to bolt into the new mechanical pump.

Thank you for the input. Yes, I meant to say I do not want to rely on scarce parts here in the US, if at all possible.

I have been reading up on some of the resistor mods for timing and fuel pressure on the electronic pump.

If I decide at some point to go with this mechanical one, how exactly does the throttle cable attach, any pics or manuals on this setup? -Do you know if there is a crucial syncing of my TB to the fuel injector pump cable adjustment?

For the time being, I just want to get the truck running well with this new motor, top intercooler (and fan), 5 row radiator, turbo with slightly more pressure (12-15psi?). I don't want to jump right into the mechanical pump now, not until I understand all of the adjustment/setup details.

 

[dspy8083]

Correct, I don't want to rely on scarce parts not available in the USA.

Considering the new motor, top intercooler w/fan, 5 row aluminum radiator, upgraded turbo; I want to get it running right then maybe look to add more power beyond the 12-14 PSI I am looking to run currently. If I stay with the original Electronic pump, I will likely do the resistor mod for timing and/or fuel. I want to take a conservative approach and not ruin anything.

Later on, once I fully understand all of the details of the mechanical pump conversion (which I know little about right now), then I'll seek more power/boost.

How exactly does the mechanical linkage of the mech. pump sync with the throttle cable? And, how to adjust it properly so it's in sync?

*Yes, the new pump is an Ebay wonder!

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Have you looked through the thread I posted? 1KZs and EFI diesels are not my thing so I can't give specifics, but you'll need to run a conventional cable-type accelerator pedal, a cable and some sort of support. I would imagine you will have to either source these used, or fabricate them.

Also, your new injection (not injector) pump does not have a boost compensator, so is not really suitable for the application. Without this, you'll either be under-fuelling when on boost (so will see little benefit from the turbocharger), or will be over-fuelling off boost with black smoke.

 

[dspy8083]

Have you looked through the thread I posted? 1KZs and EFI diesels are not my thing so I can't give specifics, but you'll need to run a conventional cable-type accelerator pedal, a cable and some sort of support. I would imagine you will have to either source these used, or fabricate them.

Also, your new injection (not injector) pump does not have a boost compensator, so is not really suitable for the application. Without this, you'll either be under-fuelling when on boost (so will see little benefit from the turbocharger), or will be over-fuelling off boost with black smoke.

thank you for your input, much appreciated.

 

[Tigris]

Welcome to the forum
Not to persuade you away from the mechanical route, many folks had done it and had the results they after. There is something to be said about the reliability a property installed mechanical system can bring.

That being said, and just my opinion, the EFI system of the 1KZ-TE is beyond robust enough save for the issues triggered by the common ECU capacitor failure. If delt with properly the electronic injection system's reliability is on par with that of the mechanical's if not even more so giving it's relative simplicity. This is that time when the electronically triggered injection technology became thoroughly mature without going overboard chasing efficiency, emissions control, and responsiveness above all else like the case in more modern diesel systems, injection pumps and common rails alike.

An electronically metered injection pump lends itself better for mild tuning than a mechanical one, broadly speaking. If I were you, I would have my original pump refurbished myself or by a reputable service with OE parts, have that ECU recapped, rebuilt my injectors and never look back.


Cheers!

 

[dspy8083]

Welcome to the forum
Not to persuade you away from the mechanical route, many folks had done it and had the results they after. There is something to be said about the reliability a property installed mechanical system can bring.

That being said, and just my opinion, the EFI system of the 1KZ-TE is beyond robust enough save for the issues triggered by the common ECU capacitor failure. If delt with properly the electronic injection system's reliability is on par with that of the mechanical's if not even more so giving it's relative simplicity. This is that time when the electronically triggered injection technology became thoroughly mature without going overboard chasing efficiency, emissions control, and responsiveness above all else like the case in more modern diesel systems, injection pumps and common rails alike.

An electronically metered injection pump lends itself better for mild tuning than a mechanical one, broadly speaking. If I were you, I would have my original pump refurbished myself or by a reputable service with OE parts, have that ECU recapped, rebuilt my injectors and never look back.


Cheers!

Thanks Tigris. I have decided to keep my original Electronic Pump in this install. I have returned the mechanical pump. I appreciate the advise!

 

[Tsvigo]

if you ever need a mechanical pump, built for 1kz. i do custom built to suit. but if your car is automatic transmission and ur in w.a. it is better bring it to me and i will work it out. the pump although it is chinese pump. it is not the correct pump for 1kz engines.

 

[Triplefat]

Welcome to the forum
Not to persuade you away from the mechanical route, many folks had done it and had the results they after. There is something to be said about the reliability a property installed mechanical system can bring.

That being said, and just my opinion, the EFI system of the 1KZ-TE is beyond robust enough save for the issues triggered by the common ECU capacitor failure. If delt with properly the electronic injection system's reliability is on par with that of the mechanical's if not even more so giving it's relative simplicity. This is that time when the electronically triggered injection technology became thoroughly mature without going overboard chasing efficiency, emissions control, and responsiveness above all else like the case in more modern diesel systems, injection pumps and common rails alike.

An electronically metered injection pump lends itself better for mild tuning than a mechanical one, broadly speaking. If I were you, I would have my original pump refurbished myself or by a reputable service with OE parts, have that ECU recapped, rebuilt my injectors and never look back.


Cheers!

Hey could you speak more on this ECU capacitor failure? I think I may be experiencing that now with my 95 KZJ Prado. My pump leaks out the top sensor and has been gradually been getting harder to start until it sudden won’t start and doesn’t seem to be pulling fuel. Was debating rebuilding or ordering a new pump

 

[Tigris]

Hey could you speak more on this ECU capacitor failure? I think I may be experiencing that now with my 95 KZJ Prado. My pump leaks out the top sensor and has been gradually been getting harder to start until it sudden won’t start and doesn’t seem to be pulling fuel. Was debating rebuilding or ordering a new pump

Hi there,
You injection pump leak is likely unrelated to potential capacitors' failure. The symptoms you are describing point in the direction of an air leak into the fuel circuit. I would start by doing the simple and cost effective things first: replace the rubber fuel lines under the hood and under the vehicle. If that doesn't solve it, consider replacing/reinstalling the fuel filter and replacing the primer, the water drain pitcock, or the O-rings on it.

Addressing the fuel leak at the top sensor is clearly a early step as well. Air can get in if fuel and pressure can get out.

Failing capacitors in the ECU can certainly cause intermittent hard starting issues among many other things, and replacing the caps preemptively is never a bad move, but my money is on you having an air leak into the system.

Cheers.

 

[Tsvigo]

Hi there,
You injection pump leak is likely unrelated to potential capacitors' failure. The symptoms you are describing point in the direction of an air leak into the fuel circuit. I would start by doing the simple and cost effective things first: replace the rubber fuel lines under the hood and under the vehicle. If that doesn't solve it, consider replacing/reinstalling the fuel filter and replacing the primer, the water drain pitcock, or the O-rings on it.

Addressing the fuel leak at the top sensor is clearly a early step as well. Air can get in if fuel and pressure can get out.

Failing capacitors in the ECU can certainly cause intermittent hard starting issues among many other things, and replacing the caps preemptively is never a bad move, but my money is on you having an air leak into the system.

Cheers.

His one is not just fuel leak. He mentioned gradually hard start and now won’t start.It is more than that…. If injection pump will never have problem, all the diesel repair pump shop needs to be closed down.

 

[Tigris]

Thank you @Tsvigo. Correct, obviously there could be other issues at play other than a fuel leak, in fact that is likely the case as we all know that one issue can participate another. Time will also take it's toll on everything.

I am aware there could be issues with the ECU, the spill valve, wiring, seals on the injection pump and on and on. It's just that based on the limited description of the symptoms I am just trying to go through this logically and methodically, starting with the more likely cause of hard starts with the least cost to address. Should everyone with a KZJ78 check their ECU for bad caps? Absolutely. Is an injection pump an item that requires periodic checks and or maintenance, of course.

@Triplefat,
You asked for more information on the ECU capacitor failure. Here is my input on that. This is something that worth looking into no matter if you have issues or not, and it can certainly trigger a hard start/no start conditions, but check the integrity of your fuel delivery system first. Let me know if you have any questions