1kz-te to mechanical pump

Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
47
Location
Bristol,UK
Hi All, I have a KZJ78 with a 1kz-te enging buit I concerned about ecu failure and reliability, I have another KZJ70 with a damaged bottom end and whanted to fit the non electonic pump onto the 1kz-te engine.
The pump is quite a simple swap over but what electonic problems will I have and links with the autobox ecu?

Can I just unplug the ecu or will I have to keep it in with some of the sensors connected to keep other thing going?

Thanks in advance.
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
The Auto ECU is part of the Engine ECU.
So you will lose control of the auto.
However there are aftermarket controllers for the auto (A340)
Or you can make a manual contoller and switch using diodes. Crude but it works.
There are some Toyota Crowns which ran the 1uzfe V8's that had a spererate ECU for the auto.

Persoanlly I would go for the aftermarket controller....
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Update, I am now going to go manual pump...
Its a hybrid 2LT / 1KZTE
Shop down here in NZ does them, min 18psi boost.
As mine is auto i need to keep the lift cable to the auto and the TPS.
I will run the factory ECU to control the auto.
It will throw out error codes for the engine, but should not effect the auto operation...
If I get issues then will get an aftermarket auto controller....
I like my auto...
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
At this time, I really like my auto....I give it heaps and heaps...
Smoother than a manual and from what I have seen lasts the distance.
I like the ability to quietly walk over obstacles then if required nail it...
The manuals seem to have clutch / flywheel issues..
At the end of the day its personal choice...
Also $$$$
 
Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
38
Location
MM, Philippines
There is a bit of power difference between the 1KZ T and 1KZ TE and as far as I know,most of it is from the pump.
I would leave the pump in there till it fails and then worry about it.
Plenty of them do 3-400000klms on the same pump.

same sentiments. s

kbushnz; if you push thru with your plan(electronic to manual pump) please post it up.
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
I will be defiantly doing the pump over xmas...
I have pushed the electronic one as far as I can..
I want to take advantage of my 3 inch exhaust, intercooler and up the boost past 14 psi.
The new pump wont be set to the same points as the factory 1KZT units...
As its a hybrid the guys who make them up also do some other internal mods which help it flow better..
Guys who have done it already report back that it really wakes the old girl up and they report better MPG.
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Well its started, manual pump has arrived and I have the linkages from a 2LT engine.
So this avo I removed the battery boxes and inner guard to make some room for the pump swap out.
Also gives me some room to seal up a factory joint in the fire wall that leaks when it rains.
Sunday its pump out...
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Well Started yesterday and made room for the pump removal.
Battery boxes out and inner guard.
IMG_4737.jpg

Today I removed the old pump. Had to make up some tooling to press out the taper / keyed shaft.
Prick getting to the back bolt for the pump....Gunna have trouble getting to it while I set its timing.
Plenty of room when its gone...
IMG_4738.jpg

Below is a pic old v's new.
Before the new one went it I added some connectors to the Tacho sensor and fuel cut valve.
IMG_4739.jpg

Fitted up no problem...Even all the hoses reached.
The spill hose from the injectors was shortened a bit and I had to adjust the tube from the pump to reach / align with the hose.
All the injector pipes fitted as before.
IMG_4740.jpg

Once I had it mostly together, well enough to run :mrgreen: ... Primed pump....
Put on battery and after about 10 turns she fired into life....Phew it works.
Next step it to tidy up wiring and install throttle cables..(Going to need to do some fabrication for this bit.
But done enough for today.
However I think I will have a box to drop next year :cry: , trans oil leak coming from bell housing....Changed that seal when I did the head some 6 years ago....
So looks like its coming out again. Should have enough room to move box back as opposed to last time when I pulled out the motor.
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Still running the 1KZTE injectors...But they are the same p/n as the 1KZT in toyodiy.com
And I believe the injectors are set the same... As its still the same motor..Displacement etc etc
Pump cost me all up $1500 NZD...inc the cost of the donor pumps.
I still have my original pump....
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
1KZT pumps are a very rare breed down this part of the world. In fact I would say there are none in NZ or Aussie.
I believe the 1KZT pump only went into Europe...And its hard to get up there.
So some of the diesel shops have developed / modded pumps from earlier engines like the 2LT...And some are starting to use a Mitsi pump.
Physical differences unknown as we cant compare. Specs for setting up on test rig are similar but the shops down here tweak them for running more boost (18-20 psi) and better fuel curve and flow.
Advantages over the electronic pumps...(my opinion)
Fully adjustable, more power ! reliable, no electronics to get wet and they tend to run a bit more economic on the diesel (weird eh... But I think the EFI pumps are set more for emissions control than power)
Parts available and cheaper.
The electronic pump parts particularly the spill valve cost upwards of $700NZD....
To play with them you need to add an aftermarket chip, which typically cost $1500AUD.
Also the ECU for the pumps can fail with age typically the capacitors.
So for those who want to squeeze some power out of the engine the mechanical pump is the way to go.
And you can tweak it to what you want / driving style.
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Well as I am on late shift this week, I have had the opportunity for a play.
Have fabricated the throttle quadrant. (needs a tidy up, gee I love having a welder )
Had to modify the 2LT unit..
Add 50mm so the arm is lower and inline with pump.
Add 35mm to the clip on rod length so it gets full movement.
Then graft it onto my intake manifold using the locations for the factory manual pump (European models).
Now its time to change over the throttle cable and put on the adjusting mount.
After that a feedback cable to my TPS and transmission lift cable.
IMG_4743.jpg

Also make the coolant hose that was used on the original throttle body shorter.... Gets in the way of the rod.
Purple arrows show the attach points used and also had to adapt one of the stays for my intercooler install as it used that factory quadrant mount.

Hopefully get a bit more time on it tomorrow
 
Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Messages
45
Location
Australia - Tasmania
Still running the 1KZTE injectors...But they are the same p/n as the 1KZT in toyodiy.com
And I believe the injectors are set the same... As its still the same motor..Displacement etc etc
Pump cost me all up $1500 NZD...inc the cost of the donor pumps.
I still have my original pump....

Ah cool, my old man was trying to tell me they're different!

That's not a bad price for the pump, it's about what it cost me to get my electric one rebuilt
 
Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Messages
45
Location
Australia - Tasmania
Where was it rebuilt? Last time I asked on someone elses behalf ,I was told only Toyota could supply them at about $2500 exchange for the 90 series

I got it done here in town at alberts diesel, I'm not sure if he tweaked it at all. I originally got told it was going to cost me around $1k, but the main body was stuffed so it ended up costing me $1.5. I also believe I was one of the first people to have my electric pump done there as they'd only just got the machinery & training to do it.

I didn't price one out from toyota because I figured it wasn't worth it and probably was going to take too long. I could have sent have sent it to a place in adelaide and got it done for $1.5k and that was a fixed price with anything that looked slightly worn would have been replaced
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Bit of an update.
Been working on powering the fuel cut solenoid.
I found a spare round plug in the wiring loom between the battery and inner guard.
Has one big fat white wire (Batt + all the time) and one red wire (Batt + when key on run....not acc) So this red wire should power the fuel cut off solenoid. Will track its fuse back later....
Not sure what it was meant to drive.....But the white batt power all the time could come in handy to tap into...
However connected in the Red wire to fuel cut....and not enough grunt to drive solenoid, it didn't have enough to drive a std relay. Rats...:mad:
So will run a wire from inside with a hidden switch to hinder any thievish behavior...

Did a bit more in the last few days... Fixed a leak in fire wall, only been there 10 years but while it was in bits..........No more puddles on the floor when it rains.
Also reduced the length of the hose between the head and block.
IMG_4766.jpg

Just cut down the original one....and used its existing bends to my advantage.:)
Now to clean up all the coolant on the garage floor :rolleyes:

Guard is now back on and one battery tray installed, battery on charge.....
Bit flat with all the cranking and only running for a few mins...

Thats it for today, will play with the throttle next week......
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom