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Did the dealer give you their written recommendations for service and repair with associated costs? If so, use that to negotiate with seller to either have him pay for the work before you pick it up or drop the price so you can have the work done on your own.
The dealer didn't give any recommendations? When I did a pre purchase inspection the inspector went over all the details with me. Thats why you do a PPI.
Trunk Monkey
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Rare for a 2uz to blow the headgasket. Coolant may just be low, if the 90k is due and the water pump was never changed, you may have a weeping leak there. Power button, not really a concern, not many people use it. More than likely it's gummed up from a spill on the console. Diff is curious, should at least get the blinking light in low when the button is pressed if it's trying to lock. Wouldn't surprise me either that the tech wasn't 100% sure on operation.
The coolant and the center diff would really worry me even though the center diff might just be something minor electrically. Unless one of the absolutely awesome mechanics on this forum are nearby, I would look harder. I think you can probably find a lower mileage LC in better shape for a few thousand more, but it will probably take some time.
#1 - Maybe just a light out on dash as opposed to not working. I wouldn't worry about this, not sure when you'd ever really use it.
#2 - Maybe related to light not working in #1 and really does work? Or switch related as dealer mentioned.
#3 - If its due for the timing belt, replace the water pump too.
How much coolant did it take to fill the radiator and overflow? If it was just the overflow empty, it's probably ok. If the radiator was way down too, I'd leave it. Otherwise, I would get the center diff lock diagnosed before purchase. Trunk's likely right about the power switch just being full of gunk?
How long have you been looking? If you just started, I'd be a little more patient and keep looking. JMO
Only if the seller is paying for the diagnosis. Don't spend your money paying to have problems diagnosed on a truck that belongs to somebody else. The PPI did its job and turned up the problems.
At this point, the seller either needs to get the diagnosis done, or give you a pretty large concession for taking on a truck with potentially very large problems. Otherwise, walk away. There are what appear to be better options in the mud classifieds now.
It's not a smoking deal, not a bad deal either if everything checks out. Money well spent on the PPI.
#1 should be easy to check to see if it's just a light out or something else. Drive it and note the RPM shift points and then make sure the button is depressed and do the same thing again. The button's primary purpose is to change the shift points so it should shift at higher rpm if the button is engaged and working.
#2 CDL's are notorious for being stubborn since they sit unused for so long with the typical original owner. This should be something that can be remedied without much drama.
#3 This would make me lean towards walking from it. Was it from a weeping water pump? Who knows. How low is low? The reservoir was empty but they didn't comment on the radiator level. Assuming they checked and found no problem is a big assumption to make. This could range from no big deal to a serious ouch moment.
#1 should be easy to check to see if it's just a light out or something else. Drive it and note the RPM shift points and then make sure the button is depressed and do the same thing again. The button's primary purpose is to change the shift points so it should shift at higher rpm if the button is engaged and working.
#2 CDL's are notorious for being stubborn since they sit unused for so long with the typical original owner. This should be something that can be remedied without much drama.
#3 This would make me lean towards walking from it. Was it from a weeping water pump? Who knows. How low is low? The reservoir was empty but they didn't comment on the radiator level. Assuming they checked and found no problem is a big assumption to make. This could range from no big deal to a serious ouch moment.
If it's not that good a deal why take risks, you might find a better deal with no risks to take. Coolant level would be my biggest concern, it shows lack of maintanence, if you don't check your levels on a regular basis then you probably ignore most maintanence. It was probably a break then replace owner more than a PM owner, these type of owners accumulate issues then sell on.
Price is a little high to me? Did a quick search on my local CL and saw a '99 with 137k miles for $8.5. I got mine with 154k miles for $9.5. They're not white, though.
If you decide to travel for one, I'd be glad to check one out for you if it isn't too far from me. Done it before for another mudder.
If you decide to travel for one, I'd be glad to check one out for you if it isn't too far from me. Done it before for another mudder.
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