'91 (3fe) Radiator options?

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I'll get some pics.
once upon a time I worked on cars for a living, but this car was brand new when I was in my prime..

I have never seen a radiator come apart this way.

Pics to come when I pull it tomorrow..

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anyone with some thoughts on a used shroud? I'd like to put it all together at the same time, the shroud met better days before a motor mount went silly while wheelig.. I don't think it's all that important, but I'd like to replace it. Does CDan or someone deal in used parts?

I think I'll start a new thread for the shroud tomorrow..

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CJF said:
Wow.

At only 100K, your rig should essentially be looking and acting like new, not falling apart at the seams. :frown:

Oh well...
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Sorry, that sig is outdated. It had 89k when I got it, 3 years this Setptember.
pushint 170 now, and ran hard.


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SPECTRE said:
I looked at two aftermarket offerings our radiator vendor had, CSF and Koyo.
Both looked and felt cheap compared to the OEM. I figured that since the OEM lasted 20 years I would spend the extra and get the known quality part.
No problems, fit perfect and was clearly higher quality.
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I've compared the OEM 1917 to the Koyo and CSF. I think you're full of s***. Denso makes trash these days.
 
How to identify a bad radiator.

How to identify a bad radiator.

reminder:
your water temperature gauge monitors water temperature. If you have a catastrophic water loss, your temp gauge has nothing to measure, so it will not show that it is overheating.

And if your lucky like me you'll blow a head gasket.
I did some engineering and hooked up a water hose to the lower radiator hose.
had water coming out of the #2 & #3 cylinders (plugs out).

enjoy,

I'm on my way to buy a lottery ticket..

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Edit: The thing runs like a top (not driving it, just in the driveway) (without water) (also, I have 0 compression on #2 & #3 cylinders, go figure that one out) it's always had a little stumble (last 3 years) at idle, it's gone now, I suspect the HG may have been going for a long time, it's always used a little water (couple cups a week, no smoking tailpipe, no fouled plugs, no water in oil, no bubbles in radiator)

Edit, Again: wonder if stop leak is the solution to all my problems?

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IMAG0011.webp
 
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TX Cruiser said:
I've compared the OEM 1917 to the Koyo and CSF. I think you're full of s***. Denso makes trash these days.
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Koyo and CSF are made by Denso?

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No, the OEM is Denso, Koyo and CSF are aftermarket radiators. 1917 refers to the DPI but is for the 4.5 liter motor, ours have a 2480. Regardless, I see more denso stuff failing than any other OE radiator. I'd stay away from OE denso anything. Quality is a thing of the past with them.
 
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TX Cruiser said:
No, the OEM is Denso, Koyo and CSF are aftermarket radiators. 1917 refers to the DPI but is for the 4.5 liter motor, ours have a 2480. Regardless, I see more denso stuff failing than any other OE radiator. I'd stay away from OE denso anything. Quality is a thing of the past with them.
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Excuse my ignorance.
the OEM rads are the plastic/aluminum? and you think the aftermarket rads (are they all copper/brass?) are better?

I briefly looked at the FSM while pulling the radiator today, and they have instructions about disassembling the radiator, it sure looks like an all metal radiator from the diagrams, which is contrary to what all the experts have said on this thread..

I'm sorry if I'm beating a dead horse here, but I'd like to get this information.

I have a blown HG and will likely take the cheap way out for now, but I'd like to know what to do when I make it 'right'.

Thanks

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My 92 OEM plastic/aluminum radiator lasted about 270K. My aftermarket metal lasted 12 months. Developed leaks in both tanks upper and lower. Took it to a radiator shop and they wouldn't repair and tried to sell me an all aluminum one for about 280 as I recall. Took my all metal radiator to another shop, they repaired about 10 days later. Cost about 100 bucks and after install developed a weep around the transmission cooler weld. Still running it today, added some bars stop leak to "fix" the weep. Not sure, but I understand that "all metal" radiators are made in China and the thickness of the "metal" is very thin. I did purchase an all aluminum radiator off fleebay a few months ago for an FJ 40 and have been very impressed so far with the quality of the material and workmanship. Unfortunately it was also made in China. Hope that helps...
 
There were NO all metal rads in the 80 series in the USA 91-97. They were all plastic tanks and metal cores. If you see an all metal rad in an 80, it's an aftermarket unit. The cooling system on an 80 is not the place you want to take the cheap way out.

What in the FSM makes you think that they are all metal??
 
ToothDr said:
What in the FSM makes you think that they are all metal??
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The part where when you screw up and look at the oil cooler in stead of the radiator..

That part..

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That's funny. I just bought an all metal from radiator barn. Should be in later this week. I looked at the Spectra last night and it is pretty cheaply built in my opinion. It only has a single row which looks to be split in the middle by a small fin or something. I have not seen the Koyo or any others. The Radiator Barn one is 3 rows... I'll post up pics and an assessment on quality when it comes in.

Kyon
 
Got the radiator installed. Construction is good and it does not seem to be cheeply built. It is pretty stout and pretty much slipped in. I have a 1" body lift and although the stock radiator still cleared the fan, this one hit the fan at the oil cooler inlet. It is also soldered in unlike the stocker so I had to bend it a tiny bit to get it to clear. No big deal but something to consider if you have a body lift. Otherwise, I'm pretty happy with it at the moment.
 
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