'91 (3fe) Radiator options?

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lordbater

lordbater

10 Year 15 Year
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www.andrewsshizzle.com
I've done the searches, and it appears the people with $$ & experience opt for the OEM.
My radiator is all metal (copper?), no plastic, aluminum. Is this factory?, or has it already been replaced?

I didn't see any mention of having them repaired/cleaned?

I'll steer clear of the aftermaket ones I think.

I'm not %100 sure it's the radiator, because I can't lay my eyes on it, but I will soon. It/something has been leaking for about 2 years. In the past few months it's required a quart or 2 a week, and now I need to top it off daily (been using water) to the tune of a gallon or better, so it is time to address this problem.

I have a local radiator shop that I've used in the past, most recently on my Jeep, I've also requested them to not repair it if it requires bypassing any of the cores.

Anyone have any thoughts on repair vs. replacement?

btw, other than a bad thermostat a few years ago, I've never ran hot, I know it leaks and check it frequently.

I think it's a leak on the upper 1/3 of the radiator, because it will leak down to a certain level with the car turned off and no pressure on the system. I'm almost certain it's going to be a radiator, I just haven't put eyes on it yet, the leak must be blocked by the shroud.

I also read in a PP that someone used Simple Green to clean out the condenser, this sounds like a great idea, I think I'll mix some up in a spray bottle. Anyone have any reason not to do this?

Thanks

Andrew
 
Michael Hanson said:
The original was aluminum and plastic. Mike
Click to expand...

I was afraid someone was going to say that.

Sure bout that on '91?

What are the benefits/drawback to both designs?

A
 
Yes, just replaced mine. I got the all metal one from Radiator Barn in Dallas,Texas. less than 300.00 I have used their rad. for years. mike
 
lordbater said:
I was afraid someone was going to say that.

Sure bout that on '91?

What are the benefits/drawback to both designs?

A
Click to expand...

100% positive on aluminum core/plastic tanks. I replaced my original last spring. Go with OEM, replace the rubber cushions with new.
 
CJF said:
Dude.

You *really* need to figure out whether it's an internal or external leak before you start throwing parts at it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, once I get the shroud away I'll be able to tell. The leak/s has gotten so bad that it will most likely blow up in my face, literally, It's just in an area that it drips from below the radiator, along the frame rail. I'm sure it's radiator..

jonheld said:
100% positive on aluminum core/plastic tanks. I replaced my original last spring. Go with OEM, replace the rubber cushions with new.
Click to expand...

Does the aluminum radiator dissipate heat faster, is that the benefit? I'm not really in a position to spend that much money on a new OEM at the moment, and I don't see it as so much work to pull it, what would your reasoning be for not having the all metal one repaired? That said. I run the truck in places that I can't afford to have a catastrophic cooling problem. (I'm well versed in running with the cap not locked down to prevent pressurization).

I guess I'm asking for some good reasons not to have my current (apparently aftermarket, excuse me, confirmed aftermarket, (going to go through the PO's records tonight and find out when it was changed)) radiator repaired. I need to convince myself, then the finance minister to drop the $$ for OEM..

And by OEM yall mean genuine Toyota, from the dealer right?

a

PS, why are the aftermaket radiators all metal? seems to me that they MUST be cheaper to manufacture, otherwise why bother?

a
 
My 1988 fj62 has aftermarket its over 10 years old and no over heating problems. In 7 cruisers Im running no Toyota radiators. I use distilled water and Preston and Toyota fluid. I have seen no difference in operating temp. or reliability. I do not use the cheapest radiators I could get. MIke
 
For the $ reason I would try to have it repaired if possible. My 92 was original plastic and aluminum and lasted about 275K. Bought a replacement brass/metal? radiator that sprung a leak about year later. Took it to the first radiator shop and they wouldn't touch it. They mentioned it was leaking out of both tanks and was thin and junk. Found another shop to remove both tanks, rod and resolder for 75 bucks. Still working today. Not sure about 80's but I purchased an aluminum radiator on ebay for about $200 for one of my 40's. Very nicely built, unfortunately in China.
 
I looked at two aftermarket offerings our radiator vendor had, CSF and Koyo.
Both looked and felt cheap compared to the OEM. I figured that since the OEM lasted 20 years I would spend the extra and get the known quality part.
No problems, fit perfect and was clearly higher quality.
 
Koyo seems to be good and cheap. Also, I thought the 91 came with a brass/copper plastic mix... and 95+ was aluminum. check summitracing.com for specs, just enter in different years.
Also, newer radiators bolt in with little modification. I've posted about it before. I did it.
Also, replace your water pump hoses while you're in there. If you end up needing a water pump too, pm me. I have a brand new OEM one that I ran for 20 minutes before I discovered the hole in the motor...
 
A,
I looked at my records and called the shop that did the work but still couldnt find out what kind of radiator was installed. Invoice shows the cost of it was $360. Definitely not OEM but looks like its put together well. All metal and black.
 
Last edited:
wspastorbryan said:
Also, replace your water pump hoses while you're in there. If you end up needing a water pump too, pm me. I have a brand new OEM one that I ran for 20 minutes before I discovered the hole in the motor...
Click to expand...
I just replaced all the hoses and waterpump last year, hope they will hold for a while..


flow said:
A,
I looked at my records and called the shop that did the work but still couldnt find out what kind of radiator was installed. Invoice shows the cost of it was $360. Definitely not OEM but looks like its put together well. All metal and black.
Click to expand...

That's the quote I got for an all metal one at Performance radiator.

I've got a couple days to make up my mind..

a
 
It came with the truck from the island 19 years ago, and now has 327, 158 miles of pig cooling under its belt. And if it goes tomorrow I blame you forever
SANY0711.webp
 
update:
the radiator had a 'significant' leak on the top 1/3rd of the radiator. I checked the fluid daily.

Today, the lady was driving and the car died. (never showed any signs of overheating cuz there was no water in it to register on the water temp gauge).

The radiator split about 4" along the bottom seam. totally separate from the other leak.

What's the thoughts?

It was low on fluid, got hot, built up pressure, and blew out the seam?
Radiator was a piece of s*** and is coming apart all at once?

Anyways. Once cooled off, she starts, 'ok' and runs good, with the water hose stuffed in the radiator..

has that 'sound' when starting that tells me 'head gasket' no water in oil, no way to check oil in water, I'll do a comp test tomorrow.

it's possible it's not totally cooled off yet either, but that 'sound' is there..

ugh..

a


btw, who here can hook me up with a 3fe fan shroud?

a
 
Ahh man, what a bummer. I've learned a lesson from you though, when the rad shows signs of leaking, order a new OEM one pronto. When overheated the head of the 3FE can warp and cause head gasket failure, that may be whats going on as you suspect. I wish the best for you
 
I'm going to put an aftermarket rad in. (don't have the $$ for OEM) and go from there.
backtrack. I'll do a compression check first..

even cooled off, it has that 'low compression' sound to the starter,
I may drive it a while, but I won't trust it on a trip.
gonna weigh my options.
I'm a candidate for the LS swap, but I don't have the $$ for that either, so I may do the HG myself.
:(
feel like I'm loosing a family member..

a
 
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