89 truck ring and pinion set up?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

threads are fine, the bearings look fine, I tore everything back down. I bet I went too far pressing the outer pinion bearing on so when i went to get my preload i was already too far. You got a trick to put that bearing on and know when you just get to the sleeve? I hate to just beat on the flange. Why don't you fab me up one of those SST tools and send it over here

by the way after trying latex paint in differrent stages of drying, wax, crayons, rtv sealer it was the sludge at the bottom of a 30 yr old can of barn enamel that worked as a substitute for prussian blue
 
Last edited:
WristPin said:
the funny part is i havent got a bench! :lol: :doh:
Click to expand...

Keep an eye out in yardsales and flea markets for a Black & Decker Workmate. I have two of them and really like them. Here's my ghetto-fabbed diff stand when I do setups:

DiffStand.jpg
 
chesshircat said:
threads are fine, the bearings look fine, I tore everything back down. I bet I went too far pressing the outer pinion bearing on so when i went to get my preload i was already too far. You got a trick to put that bearing on and know when you just get to the sleeve? I hate to just beat on the flange. Why don't you fab me up one of those SST tools and send it over here

by the way after trying latex paint in differrent stages of drying, wax, crayons, rtv sealer it was the sludge at the bottom of a 30 yr old can of barn enamel that worked as a substitute for prussian blue
Click to expand...

you just gotta feel for it. maybe there is a trick, I dont know. Havent really thought about it. I just feel for it. Maybe ZUK has a trick.

If I was at my shop, I would be able to fab all kinds of stuff. but instead I am stranded with a bent axle tube and no way to fix it, or put the axle back in, located in the middle of a wasteland town far away from my shop.

you are a clever guy, finding somthing to show the pattern! that made me chuckle.
 
KLF, that set up is a damn good way setting it up.


I could never see how to hold the ring in a vice with out hurting it, while torquing the ring bolts. Hence my previously described method.
 
FIND something as long as your axle tube like a 6x6, put jack stands at either end and put your whole housing on the stands. run chains aound all 3 at the stands, and where you don't want to straighten. Use a bottle jack between the 6x6 and tube to straighten it out
 
Last edited:
I set it up over the weekend. Drove it about 60 mls with no noise or vibration. I'm pretty sure I did everything right, what should I watch for if I did something wrong?
 
woooh

You need to make sure you have all of the correct parts in the correct locations. If the crush sleeve is difficult to crush (as in stripping threads) You should collapse it in a press, this is easy to do. Just assemble as if you were going to use the nut (and DO NOT GREASE the pinion nut threads, these should be loctite'd). Put the third flange down on the plates of the press and press down on the pinion. Collapse the sleeve, but leave just a little bit of play to fine tune either by hand or with a good impact gun. Once you have preload set, knock the pinion on each end with a drift in order to make sure your races are fully seated, then recheck. By checking preload, I mean with an inch/lb torque wrench, beam or dial style only (no clicker). The dial ones are about $3-400 from snapon, mac, etc. We offer a beam style one for $74 that works really well for anyone but the guy who does 10 diffs a day.
 
ringpinion.biz said:
You need to make sure you have all of the correct parts in the correct locations. If the crush sleeve is difficult to crush (as in stripping threads) You should collapse it in a press, this is easy to do. Just assemble as if you were going to use the nut (and DO NOT GREASE the pinion nut threads, these should be loctite'd). Put the third flange down on the plates of the press and press down on the pinion. Collapse the sleeve, but leave just a little bit of play to fine tune either by hand or with a good impact gun. Once you have preload set, knock the pinion on each end with a drift in order to make sure your races are fully seated, then recheck. By checking preload, I mean with an inch/lb torque wrench, beam or dial style only (no clicker). The dial ones are about $3-400 from snapon, mac, etc. We offer a beam style one for $74 that works really well for anyone but the guy who does 10 diffs a day.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, I've already installed it. I ruined the 1st sleeve b/c i used my press and didn't realize I had crushed the sleeve, so I got on it too hard and put too much preload on the pinion. Got a new sleeve and used the press again and went a very little at a time until i got the correct preload. I use a beam type torque wrench. I spent a lot of time checking and rechecking since this was my 1st third rebuild. I think I'm good. Just wanted to know if there is anything to look for If I did something wrong, like noises or vibrations or anything. It is very quiet and no vibrations.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom