'89 fj62 auto tranny shift points

[sandman420]

Hello all,

Im a newbie to the forum (been reading for quite some time though). Have a question about the auto tranny in my 89 fj62. The previous owner used it as a company rig and set the shift points lower in the rpm range to try to save gas while driving highway or rural. Now the tranny only lets the engine get up to 3k rpm and then shifts no matter what. Without looking in the manuals, redline on the 3fe is somewhere around 5500? I'm just wandering what the factory shift point is supposed to be set at and how am I supposed to adjust it? I have a engine/mechanical and engine/body electrical manual, but can't seem to find anything related in either one. Please help.

Oh yea, off-topic, but does anyone have an answer for using some of the new "powerfull" spark plugs like the iridium/platinum/rapid-fire/multi-spark stuff? I've heard that the rapid-fire's give you a hotter spark for better combustion, and the platinum/iridium are only there for longer life.

I've got some big projects in planning for this bruiser and would like to get a stable starting point where things can be done with the "right-way the first time" mentallity.

Mark

 

[RockDoc]

One of the first things you should do is invest in an FSM (factory service manual). It will pay for itself very quickly. Short of that, there is a fair bit of info in a link in post 8 of this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/200762-f-2f-vs-3f-torque-differences.html

For your specific question, the FSM has a chart that gives the expected shift points under wide open throttle: 1->2 at 17-25 mph 2->3 at 45-53 mph 3 -> OD at 63-71 mph
These points will be affected by the adjustment of the throttle cable and tranny kick-down cable at the throttle body. I would start with them adjusted with just a hint of slack at idle, and work from there.

BTW, don't rev you stock engine above 4500 rpm, I think it might protest a bit. :whoops:

On the spark plugs, no expert, but I would say don't waste you money. Stick with OEM or NGK or the like. I wouldn't think a "more powerful spark" can't be had by plug alone, and these engines are usually turning less than 2500 rpm, so it isn't like you need the fastest ignition and combustion possible. But I may be corrected on this.

Oh yah, welcome to Mud Enjoy the addiction.

 

[sandman420]

I think it's a FSM that I have. Toyota "brand" Land Cruiser 1988 repair manual. It has a pub. no. RM080U. If that is it, maybe I'm just not on the same page, but I can't find any of that in there. In the slightest possible, dumb-sounding way, obviously the kickdown cable is not going to affect up-shift upon accel., so I need to adjust the throttle cable then right?

My 62 has orig. most everything that I know of, except new radiator and starter I think. 210k and still purrs. Just wandering if anyone actually could give me a rough guestimate of the rpm at the shift points under wot so as I could use that by a guide (I don't usually pay attention to the speedo). The way it is adjusted right now, it is only using a hair over half redline rpm at shifts under wot. If it really is supposed to be that low, ok, but if not, I think this engine has been taken care of enough over the years to use the full range of rpms it is allowed. And I plan on taking care of it for quite a long time to come as well. Also have a 06 tacoma trd 4x4.

Thanks again for info Doc

 

[Winter Swell]

There, are three FSM's one easy to find, I have never seen the others. If you are lucky enough to come across them. The Publication numbers are: 36262E, (Land Cruiser Chassis and Body Repair Manual), and 36264E (A440F, A440L Automatic Transmission Repair Manual. If you find these let me know because they seem to be rare, or toyota burned them all?

Welcome, and keep your wrenches warm and your beer cold.

 

[RockDoc]

The kick-down cable will affect up-shift, as it relays to the transmission the position of the throttle. Think about how the up-shift should happen at a higher rpm when you boot it than when you are easy on the gas. It does also affect down shifting similarly (before I adjusted mine, I would have to manually put the tranny in 3rd on steep hills, after adjusting, it will downshift as I give it more gas on hills).

I *think* your shifting rpm should be in the 3000-3500 rpm range at WOT, anyone else? I am pretty sure the redline is 4500.

If your FSM is the greenish and while one about 1 1/2" - 2" thick, with long sections on engine mechanical, lube system, fuel injection, auto tranny..... that's the one you want. I found the shift points buried in the tranny section about 1/3 in IIRC.

 

[RockDoc]

There, are three FSM's one easy to find, I have never seen the others. If you are lucky enough to come across them. The Publication numbers are: 36262E, (Land Cruiser Chassis and Body Repair Manual), and 36264E (A440F, A440L Automatic Transmission Repair Manual. If you find these let me know because they seem to be rare, or toyota burned them all?

Hey Swell, I think I have the Chassis and Body one at home as well (not there now though). It deals with several models (61, 62, 70's IIRC), has no engine or tranny info, and has a winch section in the back!! I found it used on ABEbooks.com, it was down in New Zealand I think. If you need anything out of it, let me know.

 

[sandman420]

Ahh yes.. I also have the 36262E manual and I did find it in there. Wow... I wasn't really expecting this info:

WOT
1 -> 2 aprox. 1100rpm @ 21-29 MPH
2 -> 3 aprox. 2350rpm @ 45-57 MPH
3 -> OD aprox. 3650rpm @ 75-87 MPH

I've heard these were tractor engines, but with the EFI I expected a little more power on acceleration that what I currently have. It has had a recent tune-up and everything is supposed to be really good, as 210k and still purring. Just doesn't make sense to me; why my govenor cuts off fuel at much much higher rpm than the tranny allows it to rev up to on shifts. And being tractor engines, aren't they supposed to be used to sustained higher rpms while running?

Like I said, I'm new to the FJ, but love it as is, just a little curious about the things I don't understand. I guess all is well with mine though, as far the manual says about the shift points.

 

[RockDoc]

Are those values supposed to be engine rpm, or governor (within tranny speed signal) rpm? The first 2 seem low to me, and the last one high for engine!! I bet its the governor rpm.

They call them tractor engines because of the low engine-speed performance. These are built for low end torque and smoothness rather than high revving HP. The 3FE was built to get better HP higher in the rpm range (for interstate running and to compliment the auto), but it still has the low end grunt (hard to feel through the torque convertor) and doesn't really rev any higher.

If you haven't adjusted the kickdown, that may translate the engines power to ground better, also the 3FE is supposedly pretty sensitive to plugged up air filters. Has the timing been checked? I adjuster mine a bit on the advanced side and that gave it some more spring (have to be careful of ping though). Search in here and the 80s forum (the 90-92 80s had the same engine/tranny combo) and you will find some hints on what will make it happy. The advanced search function (top of the page, click on search, pull down to advanced) is really good on here.

 

[RockDoc]

The FAQs in this and the 80s forum are loaded with good info too.

 

[sandman420]

I'm not really sure but I would assume engine; the diagram specifies a graph with Throttle Valve Opening % and Output Shaft rpm. I just went all the way to the top for 100% WOT and rough guestimated the rpm range, as they were 500rpm increments. Then the table below the graph had the shift points by mph and just gave the ranges I listed. Both graphs were based on generic tire sizes of 7.0-16-6 to 7.5R16-6, 8 and 9.00-15-6 to 10R-15.

However, I took the LC out on the road yesterday (don't have it licensed yet), b/c I too thought the first figures were a bit low, and I didn't really pay too much attention, but I swear the rpm was well up to the 3k range even shifting 1st to 2nd. I did notice a slight hesitation upon full accerlation on it. I checked the ac and it was perfectly clean and dry and not even a trace of any dirt or leaves or dust or anything in there. I'm going to assume its not that and try plugs and wires and maybe a bit of carb clean in the throttle body. Probably the next thing would be to clean the injectors eh (I would normally assume vacuum line, but I looked all around and it appears that most all of the hoses have actually been replaced sometime recently - maybe the last tune up - as they all appear new and connected)? That'll be a first for me, but I'm willing to learn. I want to eventually soon switch to a snorkel.

 

[Winter Swell]

Thanks Doc,

I am planning some major work soon on my 62, I will pm you if I need anything out of there. Would things change if I told you Im a Flames Fan, HE HE.

sandman, sorry for the hijack. Hope you get your issues sorted. Once you get her on the road, and off you will never drive anything else.

 

[RockDoc]

Would things change if I told you Im a Flames Fan, HE HE.
ad, and off you will never drive anything else.

As long as you don't drive a Heep, it's fine by me.