88 4 runner ball joint spacers
- Thread starter pcpnna
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Bear I totally agree with you, but out of the box are those suspensions balanced?
Are you going to buy and instal another drop bracket lift and then balance it?
I never said write compression off, most professional kit manufactures have more droop than stuff I guess there all wrong to.
Whats the P# of your drop bracket kit?
Does the added levarage of tire have any bad effects on the little diff
with the little mounting hardware? i.e rotational forces?
Where you talkin to those people that run 44's on theire 10 bolt chevy's when you said "driven smartly"?
because those little Toyota *factory* IFS joints just love big tires, and big right foot!
My IFS has custom longfields, mosler shafts, and HD CV's
Bear you totaly got me on the BJ spacers, one O'clock in the mourn
and I had those RevTech spacers in my mind
the old, lift vs. bump stops kinda thing. I thought it aplyed here
but it
'ntP.S you got a BA setup it must have took a lot of work to get it that way.
Rancho arms, BJ spacer, downey drive shafts? sway-a-way Tbars?, no drop.
Whats the specs?
Only 3" of lift? Thats what I want minus the (what I call lower to lift) diff drop, $500 shafts high $ other stuf.
How much $ per inch?
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I don't think ANY lift out of the box is going to be all that great. IMO each has to be tweeked to take full advantage, there just isn't a simple bolt and go.
A buddy of mine had a pro comp stage II bracket lift and the only problems he had was the twisting of the lower frame at the trusses. I told him to pull it back with a come-a-long and weld the joints. Since then he's had no issues with the kit. I for one would never go for a bracket lift because I don't have the desire for that much lift. I just want 2-3" with more wheel travel.
The stock axles can take some punishment, but if you push them to the limits of the design spces, breakage is expected. I've blow a front R&P and the flange on the diff but no axle or CV joints. With my new stuff I still think the front diff's spider gears and R&P are the weak link.
As for my setup, you got it all about right but I use OME 23.4mm torsion bars. Even the 25mm sway-a-way were too stiff for the angled arms. Also I machined my BJ spacers down from 1&5/8" to 1&1/4". Also I had to modify the u-joints of the new axles. Not to mention I fabed up my own shock mounts. Downey's have been known to break. I'm after more wheel travel and only want enough lift so that 35" tires don't look too goofy.
My lift has been a long time work in progress and right now it's just about to the point of it's full potential. I first ran larger t-bars and ultra low profile stops. It was ok but the limited compression forced the rear axle to do to much work and always lifted a tire. Then the new arms........Bj spacers......several t-bar sizes tried. I don't judge cost to benifit on my truck, if I'm happy with where it's at then that's all that matters. However I do try to keep it within budget, and that's the only reason I don't have a TC kit on there right now.
The reasons I worked so hard to make this "kit" I have work is because it 1. has the potential for 12" of travel, 2. keeps the center truss high up, and 3. doesn't widen the track.
I didn't know longfield had IFS axles, I personally would use the prosche joints if I did it all again.
A buddy of mine had a pro comp stage II bracket lift and the only problems he had was the twisting of the lower frame at the trusses. I told him to pull it back with a come-a-long and weld the joints. Since then he's had no issues with the kit. I for one would never go for a bracket lift because I don't have the desire for that much lift. I just want 2-3" with more wheel travel.
The stock axles can take some punishment, but if you push them to the limits of the design spces, breakage is expected. I've blow a front R&P and the flange on the diff but no axle or CV joints. With my new stuff I still think the front diff's spider gears and R&P are the weak link.
As for my setup, you got it all about right but I use OME 23.4mm torsion bars. Even the 25mm sway-a-way were too stiff for the angled arms. Also I machined my BJ spacers down from 1&5/8" to 1&1/4". Also I had to modify the u-joints of the new axles. Not to mention I fabed up my own shock mounts. Downey's have been known to break. I'm after more wheel travel and only want enough lift so that 35" tires don't look too goofy.
My lift has been a long time work in progress and right now it's just about to the point of it's full potential. I first ran larger t-bars and ultra low profile stops. It was ok but the limited compression forced the rear axle to do to much work and always lifted a tire. Then the new arms........Bj spacers......several t-bar sizes tried. I don't judge cost to benifit on my truck, if I'm happy with where it's at then that's all that matters. However I do try to keep it within budget, and that's the only reason I don't have a TC kit on there right now.
The reasons I worked so hard to make this "kit" I have work is because it 1. has the potential for 12" of travel, 2. keeps the center truss high up, and 3. doesn't widen the track.
I didn't know longfield had IFS axles, I personally would use the prosche joints if I did it all again.
Now given I never ran a typical bracket lift on my truck, I've been around them enough. With that in mind and all the work I put into mine, I stand behind taking a stock truck, adding 1.5" BJ spacers, low profile bump stops, longer shocks and maybe, maybe OME t-bars as the best bang for the buck. --by far.
Gotcha......
My IFS has custom longfields, mosler shafts, and HD CV's
2MK there are no after market or stronger parts available.
just trying to make another point
My comments were supposed to be to beginers not the advanced
Any one can throw money at some thing till it works but most beginers donot
know this or go this rout just, instal and gone
And now for some more retaliation!!!!!!!
I'm wait'n....................
Is it me or do you think we could start another thread with only IFS (86-95)
I think it would be cool to see different lifts, components and systems.
2"3"4"5"6"...............etc, and it could be updated to show survivabuility....?
My IFS has custom longfields, mosler shafts, and HD CV's
2MK there are no after market or stronger parts available.
just trying to make another point
My comments were supposed to be to beginers not the advanced
Any one can throw money at some thing till it works but most beginers donot
know this or go this rout just, instal and gone
And now for some more retaliation!!!!!!!
I'm wait'n....................
Is it me or do you think we could start another thread with only IFS (86-95)
I think it would be cool to see different lifts, components and systems.
2"3"4"5"6"...............etc, and it could be updated to show survivabuility....?
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I did't mean by you. lol
EVERY post tends to peeve some one or leave some one or something out.
I figured I'd get this:
Newbie here "HOW DARE YOU INSIST I" ........................."balance my TrailMaster kit"............ "I ALLWAYS"..................
EVERY post tends to peeve some one or leave some one or something out.
I figured I'd get this:
Newbie here "HOW DARE YOU INSIST I" ........................."balance my TrailMaster kit"............ "I ALLWAYS"..................
It is notched to fit a certain way and should not be able to be re-clocked. Only the rear anchor is this possible on. I've had both anchors off and test fited them when I was using stock t-bars with my new setup. I for one would not do this because the weak link is the anchor splines and people have broke them with just the lack of grease.
Yes, there is a single notch in the splines on the a-arm side of the TB. It's just a missing spline on the torsion bar; cut another spline out of the TB and call it good. Not a big deal to remove another spline for a mildly wheeled vehicle. I've done this before and it has worked fine for 5+ years.
The a-arm anchors themselves can break, but we're not talking about modifying them.
warning thread hijack
Bear80 where did you get those adjustable tie rod links/sleeves with the jam nuts? could you post a close up pic of the ball joint spacers? I'm curious, whats the suspension setup on this truck?
Bear80 where did you get those adjustable tie rod links/sleeves with the jam nuts? could you post a close up pic of the ball joint spacers? I'm curious, whats the suspension setup on this truck?
Set at aprox. 3" of lift, a full 12" of wheel travel and I have it set to 1" less drop than compression. Not to mention I still have the stock track width:
