80 Series inner axle seal surface is marred? (1 Viewer)

[swamp-thing]

Hey braintrust — first off. Happy 4th to all — secondly, I’m in the middle of knuckle rebuild on my 80 series. I pulled out the old inner axle seal ( was non OEM ) so I know someone has been in here. After cleaning up and prepping to install the new seal I am feeling around on the seal surface and unfortunatly the previous mechanic left me a couple knicks / gouges / or lack of a better descriptor: marred spot in one area of the surface where they clearly leveraged a screw driver or a seal puller……. Anyway…..it’s not a massive area, about the size of a regular screwdriver tip….can I just grease the new seal & send it? This seal only recently started leaking and I think it was because my breather was plugged. My intuition says if the previous seal held, then mine would hold too, but should I put some FIPG or something in there as a precaution. I can’t be the first person who’s come by this issue — anyone?

All help appreciated!!!

TIA

 

[BILT4ME]

Hey braintrust — first off. Happy 4th to all — secondly, I’m in the middle of knuckle rebuild on my 80 series. I pulled out old seal ( was non OEM ) so I know someone has been in here. After cleaning up and prepping to install the new seal I am feeling around on the seal surface and unfortunatly the previous mechanic left me a couple nice knicks / gouges / or lack of a better descriptor: marred spot in one area of the surface where they clearly leveraged a screw driver or a seal puller……. Anyway…..can I just grease the new seal & send it or do I have bigger issues? This seal only recently started leaking and I think it was because my breather was plugged. My intuition says if the previous seal held, then mine would hold too, but should I put some FIPG or something in there as a precaution. I can’t be the first person who’s come by this issue — anyone?

All help appreciated!!!

TIA

Clean the surface of the steel with brake cleaner, then place a small smear of "The Right Stuff-black" on there then insert the seal.

Grease the sealing surface of the seal prior to inserting the axle shaft. Is your axle guide still in the housing?

 

[swamp-thing]

hey, thank you for the reply. I’m not sure what the axle guide is?

 

[BILT4ME]

hey, thank you for the reply. I’m not sure what the axle guide is?

This is a venturi looking piece of metal about 1" behind (inboard) of the inner axle seal that allows the axle shaft to drag on it during installation to reduce the drag of the shaft on the new seal. This is not a replaceable part. There are many that have found it loose or even floating around inside the differential.

Those that are loose should be rewelded in to save you seals. There is one on each side on the front axle only.

 

[swamp-thing]

Ok gotcha, then yes, my axle guide is still in its spot, nice and tight.
Is the “right stuff” similar to Toyota’s FIPG seal packing? I only ask because I have the oem seal packing, but no right stuff — I can buy some, unless its the same stuff under a different name? although the “right Stuff” sounds like some stuff I should own anyway

I appreciate your help

 

[BILT4ME]

Ok gotcha, then yes, my axle guide is still in its spot, nice and tight.
Is the “right stuff” similar to Toyota’s FIPG seal packing? I only ask because I have the oem seal packing, but no right stuff — I can buy some, unless its the same stuff under a different name? although the “right Stuff” sounds like some stuff I should own anyway

I appreciate your help

You can use the Toyota seal packing.

"The Right Stuff" is a sealant that is highly oil resistant and can be placed into direct oil service immediately. It cures in about 5 minutes. The correct version comes in a Cheez-Wiz can and is expensive.

There are other versions that are more silicone based and not as oil resistant and don't cure as quickly.

 

[voodu3]

For future reference Permatex 25229 The Right Stuff 1 Minute Black Gasket Maker, 3 oz. https://a.co/d/fwkPZ0F

 

[BILT4ME]

For future reference Permatex 25229 The Right Stuff 1 Minute Black Gasket Maker, 3 oz. https://a.co/d/fwkPZ0F

Be aware that the other product called "Ultra Black" is NOT the same stuff.

Also, don't use the Gray color product, as it is not as oil resistant as the black, even though the packaging is extremely similar.

 

[swamp-thing]

@voodu3 and @BILT4ME would the 25228 Permatex work just as well? I can't source the 25229 Locally so either I hold this project up and wait for Amazon or I get what I can here?
It seems like the main difference I'm seeing between the two "Stuffs" is one is 90 minute cure and one is 1 minute cure..... I'm good with 90 minutes if that gets my project wrapped up sooner, but not good with 90 minutes if what I really need is the other "stuff" entirely -- also, as mentioned I do have a brand new tube of the Toyota version FIPG.....

thoughts?

 

[BILT4ME]

@voodu3 and @BILT4ME would the 25228 Permatex work just as well? I can't source the 25229 Locally so either I hold this project up and wait for Amazon or I get what I can here?
It seems like the main difference I'm seeing between the two "Stuffs" is one is 90 minute cure and one is 1 minute cure..... I'm good with 90 minutes if that gets my project wrapped up sooner, but not good with 90 minutes if what I really need is the other "stuff" entirely -- also, as mentioned I do have a brand new tube of the Toyota version FIPG.....

thoughts?

The Toyota FIPG will perform just as well.

The 25288 does appear to have most of the same ingredients, but with a 90 minute cure time. A little more handling perhaps. I has the same warnings on both about no direct contact with gasoline.

I use the 85224 all the time, but you MUST stuff a screw in the tip of the dispenser in order to keep the product from curing in the nozzle and rendering the can useless.

Use what you've got.