80 Series Flip Window Installation Overview (1 Viewer)

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kevinmrowland

Forum Lifer
Joined
Sep 2, 2005
Threads
89
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2,282
Location
Eugene, OR
Website
www.wagongear.com
Bit of an overview to show installation images specific for the 80 series windows.

The details and finicky stuff are almost exactly the same as the 60 series info, of which there is a ton of detailed stuff posted in the main flip window instal thread here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/wagongear/...tallation-instructions-production-thread.html


This will just be a quick look at the big stuff.

First up, the window set as they would be after being unpacked. Got them out and ready with the tools lined up to go.
IMG_1316.jpg


I pop the factory windows out, this truck already had solid glass installed so removal was exactly as pictured and documented in the other install thread. For the factory sliders they come out the same way, but even easier.

After that, pull the taillights to get access to the panel
IMG_1317.jpg


And the marker lights to make a spot for the actuators.
IMG_1319.jpg



This truck being white I did a quick scrub-down of the metal in front of the pressure vent and rattle canned it black, otherwise there would be a strip of white between the window and the vent trim. On dark trucks it wouldn't matter.
IMG_1360.jpg



Next up unbolt the frames and set the hardware aside.
IMG_1320.jpg



To start with all we need are the inner and outer frames and the four standoffs with four washers.
IMG_1321.jpg



As with the 60, set the frames in place, finger tight the standoffs and we can center the frames in the opening, get them justified a little towards the top and double check the fit before proceeding.
IMG_1322.jpg



Then move on with the rest of the hardware we removed. I like a gear wrench for this part, you absolutely must use anti-seize on the treads. I put a little dollop in the nut before putting it and the washer in place.
IMG_1323.jpg



It's not all rose petals and posies, you will have to use a clamp.
IMG_1325.jpg



And for the corner bolts (which I leave for last) you will probably have to use two.
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With the frame in place we can loosely bolt the latches on.
IMG_1328.jpg



Then we've got the outer frame, put a little bit of RTV on the back of the hinge plate, it's not needed but a little extra help wont hurt.
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We've got the frame ready to go.
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Set it in place and latch it to the latches.
IMG_1331.jpg



Get it situated in the opening and bolt the hinges in place.
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Now that the frame is where it needs to go, match the latch holder bracket up to it and snug it in place as well.
IMG_1335.jpg



With the holders matched up move on to the latch itself.
IMG_1337.jpg



Slide them up or down to get the pin to hit center on the pawl and so the pin tab is centered in the cutout.
IMG_1338.jpg
 
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Then we can move on to the actuators. I've got them labeled for each side and which is the back cable.
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For assembly all that needs to be removed is the three nuts, that gives you all the parts you need.
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Throw the backer plate with the cables in through the taillight opening and snake the cables up into place.
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For the back cables be sure to rout them up through the access hole for the vent trim panel nut as pictured here.
IMG_1361.jpg



Then on to the exterior actuators. My thumb is pointing towards the little lock icon on the knob, if you install them with the symbol towards the front the keys will go in with the tumbler cuts forward, that makes it consistent and easy to remember whichever side you are on.
IMG_1344.jpg



With that in place assembling them is as simple as putting the three nuts back on and threading them into place. Easier said than done since space is tight.
IMG_1345.jpg



Hook the cables to the latches. I have switched to using these tiny metal shaft collars rather than the metal clips. They are held in place with a 1.5mm drive set screw. It is typically the smallest size in normal metric allen key sets.
IMG_1346.jpg



Lock the cables in place, using this setting to adjust the cable free-play so they both engage at the same time.
IMG_1348.jpg


You can do all this and make any adjustments before the glass is put in place and it makes it easy to just reach through the frame and get to both sides. Once it's all set we can move on to the glass. The glass frame will pop off it's pins when pushed to the back, and the glass slides under the two tabs on the top of the frame and is locked in place with the lock strip.
IMG_1349.jpg




This small area under the hinges has no lock strip coverage so it's necessary to seal it with a bit of RTV.
IMG_1350.jpg



With that done, pop the glass and frame back on it's pin hinges and install the gas shock, you should have a working window.

The only thing left is to finish routing the cables, this is the only part that is a little different than on the 60s, rather than drilling holes you just need to file a little notch in the plastic like so:
IMG_1351.jpg

Notch:
IMG_1352.jpg

Set:
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Same thing on the front:
IMG_1355.jpg

IMG_1356.jpg

IMG_1357.jpg




And we have flip open windows.

IMG_1363.jpg


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:cheers:
KR
 
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Pure art!

Did I miss the part where the glass is installed? Is that glass?
 
AMMO is a gear whore :flipoff2:

DAMN NICE WORK!!!

I've been called worse ;) Hater ;)

Should I even mention I also have the CB / radio antenna mount to replace the factory antenna... I'll let Kevin start a new thread for that one.

Matt
 
I've been called worse ;) Hater ;)

Should I even mention I also have the CB / radio antenna mount to replace the factory antenna... I'll let Kevin start a new thread for that one.

Matt

Dammit if you have one for the 80 I need it stat!
 
Dammit if you have one for the 80 I need it stat!

NLXTACY you sound just like me, when Kevin made the 60 version. LMAO!!!! And it is really , really, really, the most usefull mod I have ever done, as always workmanship and quality out the roof. Gotta love Wagon Gear.
 
Pure art!
Did I miss the part where the glass is installed? Is that glass?

See post #2 above for:
You can do all this and make any adjustments before the glass is put in place and it makes it easy to just reach through the frame and get to both sides. Once it's all set we can move on to the glass. The glass frame will pop off it's pins when pushed to the back, and the glass slides under the two tabs on the top of the frame and is locked in place with the lock strip.

It's just a really simple step, does not take up much instruction room.


The glass is Toyota part numbers:
62711-60330
&
62712-60270
(just the glass is needed, none of the gaskets or vent trims, should be about $120 per side depending on your dealer)
 
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Very well executed!! The true test of a mod such as this is when closed it does not look like a mod, perfect.
 

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