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slightly OT, but what distributor would be the upgrade from the 1978 small cap electronic in my 40?
I tried a non Toyota aftermarket high performance distributor once sold by Manafre. It was a Mallory Dual point. I did not like it. Then I tried a new Non USA distributor from SOR along with one of their new carbs. I loved the setup.
A non USA carb with a Petronics is a great setup...
However, over the last ten years or so I've become an ever bigger fan of the GM HEI and you can now get them brand new and modified to fit your F/2F for pretty cheap. Even though it's electronic, a spare module is dirt cheap and easy to find and I like the one wire hookup and power of the units.
I have a Mac tools HEI tester for them if you have an issue.
I have to come to Manassas to get the part I order. You up for some pinoy food?
vacuum & timing
The Mallory distributors alway seemed to have a sloppy gear interface which made for iffy advance and timing even when calibrated correctly at idle. Aviod the Mallory units in f/2F' engines.
I would do a thorough test for vacuum leaks and considder replacing any brittle/cracked vacuum lines. Also check all of the plastic vacuum fittings for cracks and clogging. I do not know where the gunk comes from but a pipe-cleaner cleaning of the inside of the plastic vacuum fittings can sometimes de-gunk and free up the air-flow through the fittings.
The genuine Toyota non-USA distributors give about the best performance that I have found although Downey off-Road used to sell a comparable if not better disributor during the 1980's. They may still offer it. The US-spec Distributors do not realize enough advance to get the most out of an F, later-F, and 2F engines. The Downey distriutor had a great advance-curve.
For best results particularly at higher altitudes you may want to advance the timing several degrees at-idle over what the manual says it should be (particularly with a US Dist). Where I am living at the moment (7000 feet above sea level) you NEED to advance the timing over factory specs.
While you are at it make sure that the carb-heat bi-metal mechanism is working correctly (if you truck is so equiped). These things get stiff and stop working and can overheat and cause a crack on the bottom side of the intake manifold right under the carb. This part will not cause the problems you are having unless the intake does develop a crack.
Regards
-- Eugene
thanks for the tips.
Stumbaugh, I'll be free from 1300-1400 this week
Cool, PM me your cell and I'll call you ahead of time. Probably tomorrow or Wed.
What you been up to Eugene? Still have that cool aqua colored 45?
