ccasteel
SILVER Star
I'm gonna guess some sort of noise suppressor for a radio. Doesn't look stock to me.
Builds 77 FJ40 Build, It begins...and may take a while (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter franklin40
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I'm gonna guess some sort of noise suppressor for a radio. Doesn't look stock to me.
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- #22
I looked at the inside firewall of a friends 40 and didn't see that part there but his is a 73 so enough time for changes. it looks old (as in not required for the modern stereo in there now) as its not a circuit board but resistors and other stuff I really don't know anything about. i guess I circuit board is just a bunch or resistors etc but you know what I mean. it's not a new technology part.
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- #23
little by little I'm making progress. I spent two hours tonight taking off four bolts. they are the last four that separate the tub from the frame mind you!! I had to shear the last one off with my cold chisel but its free. the body mount was just spinning and it was up in a crossmember that I couldn't get a grinder in. I started to drill it but figured its a pretty big bolt to drill the head off. the rest seem to break when I don't want them to so maybe the head will snap off. it took a while and now I'm sore.
now I have to clean up the shop of all the little bits of metal and broken bolts then set up a place to transfer the tub to. then I must decide what step to take next. pulling the donor motor or pull the dead 2F and drive line and get the frame ready for work. at least I'm still doing the free stuff so I can keep saving for the rebuild
. no pictures tonight as nothing has really changed that could be appreciated by a camera. I'll get some once the tub is off.
now I have to clean up the shop of all the little bits of metal and broken bolts then set up a place to transfer the tub to. then I must decide what step to take next. pulling the donor motor or pull the dead 2F and drive line and get the frame ready for work. at least I'm still doing the free stuff so I can keep saving for the rebuild
. no pictures tonight as nothing has really changed that could be appreciated by a camera. I'll get some once the tub is off.
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- #24
finally got the body off. rolled out the frame for now. time to pull donor engine so that can get rebuild while i start some body work. once the donor engine is out then i'll roll the fj40 back in and start pulling the 2F and drive line to start work on the frame. the parts pile is getting bigger but it's almost apart now.
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- #25
by the way i hate the revolver rear shackles so don't judge me for having them i'm going to use a proper suspension set up with this build
i'm going to use a proper suspension set up with this build
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Subscribed. Mirroring your build with mine.
Nice shop! don't forget to brace your tub before you start into it. Good luck!
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- #28
what do you mean by brace the tub? are you talking about making it a little more stable than the saw horses because I'm going to adjust that. it's actually pretty solid as is but with kids around I don't want any accidents with it falling!
He means that depending on what you plan on cutting out and replacing, unless you weld on some bracing as soon as you start cutting into that tub it is going to come out of square. Common places to brace are from tub rail to tub rail in the rear, b pillar to b pillar and potentially pillar to b pillar to a pillar. I braced the rear of my tub from tub rails to the rear frame member when I cut out my rear quarter panels, but neglected the b pillars...big mistake!
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- #30
good to know. thanks. that would suck to screw that up!! this will be my first go at any kind of body work so I may be asking some fairly newb type questions such as this.... what should I use for bracing. cheap but effective would be nice. is 1x1 square tube enough/ overkill?
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- Thread starter
- #31
halloween
not any new tech but meh. i asked my 2 year old what he wanted his pumpkin to be and he said landcruiser. here it is
not any new tech but meh. i asked my 2 year old what he wanted his pumpkin to be and he said landcruiser. here it is
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- #33
didn't think I had a carb fan on this truck. my 62 has one but not this truck
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- #34
half tub vs panels
so i'm contemplating what i should do for the body. i need rear corner patches, rear sill, both fenders tops and sides (well the sides are rusted and the tops aren't original which i want). it seems as though a half tub from EBI in canada is about $800 more that all the patches but then i would have to add all the welding supplies and primer that would go into fixing mine to make it the equivalent to EBI half tub. i haven't priced out the welding supplies or primer but i would guess roughly $200 for each so that would make a rough difference of $400. I only have a few hours a week to work on it so the half tub would get me a lot further ahead i would guess time wise but i also would like to learn body work. that also being said i will be learning body work so my job will likely be less awesome than EBI's. i can weld i've just never done sheet metal this thin. for those who have used the half tub how tough is it to put the front and back together? for those who have done the body patching would you do it again or go half tub? thanks for any and all advice.
so i'm contemplating what i should do for the body. i need rear corner patches, rear sill, both fenders tops and sides (well the sides are rusted and the tops aren't original which i want). it seems as though a half tub from EBI in canada is about $800 more that all the patches but then i would have to add all the welding supplies and primer that would go into fixing mine to make it the equivalent to EBI half tub. i haven't priced out the welding supplies or primer but i would guess roughly $200 for each so that would make a rough difference of $400. I only have a few hours a week to work on it so the half tub would get me a lot further ahead i would guess time wise but i also would like to learn body work. that also being said i will be learning body work so my job will likely be less awesome than EBI's. i can weld i've just never done sheet metal this thin. for those who have used the half tub how tough is it to put the front and back together? for those who have done the body patching would you do it again or go half tub? thanks for any and all advice.
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- #35
further progress once again on the tear down. I got the transmission/transfer case out tonight and got pretty much everything disconnected from the engine in prep for pulling it. got the old exhaust off and started getting the shocks off. wiring harness is now off. it's down to the engine, steering and the axles and springs. after that I'll be ready to start prepping the frame. I'll be starting with a test fit of my new engine/tranny/transfer case, shock mounts, radiator, etc before the proper cleaning and painting stages. lots to do yet but I'm making progress! unfortunately no pics tonight.
It's a standard light socket--I think it is the plug in for the trouble light
subscribed to your thread ... I bought my 78 in BC and while the frame looks good on mine, I hope its as clean as yours looks in the pics ... all things considered i.e. DD etc, your truck looks pretty good ... re the tub, have you thought about the Aqualu or Gozzard options ... I know there are mixed opinions on both, but steel up here is a never ending battle, frankly ... economics is always a big consideration, of course, but the thinking re mine when the time comes is, do it once with the easiest to maintain option that will allow using the truck whenever I want to use it ...
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- #38
finally a little more progress. i have the frame pretty much ready to start building. the drive line is all out and now its time to start putting things together so i can get fitments right before doing finishing to the frame. i am using a different engine that i hope to get the rebuild started on in the next couple weeks. i am going to have it done by a shop as time is limited and as much as id like todo the work to say i did it I'm also really wanting to drive this truck again and it'll take me years to do everything on it if i don't farm some stuff out. here are are a few pictures of where things are.
there is a little rust on the frame that needs to be rebuilt but not too bad. the rear crossmember and angles frame channels are going to have to go. still debating as to whether to integrate these into a new bumper or should i rebuild them and then attach a bumper in place of the cross member? suggestions? i want to do a rear bumper that has a swing out tire carrier and gerry can basket and isn't attached to the body in any way.
yes that is actually a little factory paint on the frame in the above picture!! i sure wish there was more though
there is a little rust on the frame that needs to be rebuilt but not too bad. the rear crossmember and angles frame channels are going to have to go. still debating as to whether to integrate these into a new bumper or should i rebuild them and then attach a bumper in place of the cross member? suggestions? i want to do a rear bumper that has a swing out tire carrier and gerry can basket and isn't attached to the body in any way.
yes that is actually a little factory paint on the frame in the above picture!! i sure wish there was more though
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- #39
lastly here is what part of the delay getting to this point was from. here is the new heart of the truck. mercedes 0m617 from my old 1981 td300. the rest of the car isn't worth restoring so this came in useful. a few other threads out here on this engine do i have a few people to follow. i'll have a few differences along the way. i'll give more info on that as it progresses though. i plan on using luke's adapter from 4x4 labs to go to a 5 speed trany, probably nv450.
oh and thats not paint. thats oil from mostly from when the oil cooler sprung a fountain and covered the engine as i drove. thankfully i could keep up with the leak until i was able to find a new one but now the whole underside of the car and the drive line should never rust!!
oh and thats not paint. thats oil from mostly from when the oil cooler sprung a fountain and covered the engine as i drove. thankfully i could keep up with the leak until i was able to find a new one but now the whole underside of the car and the drive line should never rust!!
