76 FJ40 restoration

[shipmag]

I am restoring a 76 FJ40. I bought it 7 years ago and rolled it trailer and cruiser in Gallop. Sat in driveway for 7 years. Had the frame and body straightened in Sikeston Missouri. Started to weld qtr panel this February and am trying to get it bead blasted this month. Then painted will post pictures as I go.

I am in need of a bed patch:
From the passenger rear fender 12 inches towards the center, for the length go 6 inches toward the rear from where the mid bed and rear bed meet and from the front bend for the mid bed 6" from that bend toward the front. Cant afford the cost of replacing both the rear bed and mid bed although it could use it.

 

[shipmag]

76 FJ40 pic of bed patch needed

This is a picture of the location of the bed patch I
Need.

 

[shipmag]

Found the patch I needed from Classic Cruisers in Salida Colorado. Now to try and figure how to support it while I butt weld the patch to the old bed.

 

[shipmag]

Found the patch I needed from Classic Cruisers in Salida Colorado. Now to try and figure how to support it while I butt weld the patch to the old bed.

I need to figure how to bend the top of the door post on the drivers side 1/4" to the rear so the new qtr panel fits and the door lines up.

 

[shipmag]

Found the patch I needed from Classic Cruisers in Salida Colorado. Now to try and figure how to support it while I butt weld the patch to the old bed.

Any body have any idea how to bend the top of the door post on the drivers side so my new qtr panel and door fit.

 

[x factor]

Your pic doesn't show the front of the door jamb. If the the front of the door jamb and the bottom of the door to the the sill are even then the quarter panel is the problem. If it is an aftermarket quarter panel don't expect it to fit perfect. A vast majority of aftermarket parts need some kind of tweeking to make them work.

 

[shipmag]

The door at the top of the post is off the same as the qrt panel is so its the post. Trying to figure how to Move that post the 1/4 inch thought about using a high lift jack across the door and push from the front of the door jam to the door post the door post should move first with the qtr panel removed. If the post will move. Thought about using a come along to the rear but there is nothing to attach to except the bumper and the angle from the bumper to the top of the post isn't the right angle to be pulling against and it may damage the bed. Any ideas?

 

[x factor]

Sorry, I think I misunderstood you at first. I would have to see it in person to make a good suggestion.

 

[shipmag]

Sorry, I think I misunderstood you at first. I would have to see it in person to make a good suggestion.

Well I took another look at the rear door post. The front post isnt strong enough to use a high lift jack to move the rear door post. Its going to
Take heat to move it. Tried using a 2x4 and two
Pound hammer on the top of the door post but couldnt budge it. Im wondering if heating the post half way up will hurt any thing. Any body have any ideas?

 

[shipmag]

Well I took another look at the rear door post. The front post isnt strong enough to use a high lift jack to move the rear door post. Its going to
Take heat to move it. Tried using a 2x4 and two
Pound hammer on the top of the door post but couldnt budge it. Im wondering if heating the post half way up will hurt any thing. Any body have any ideas?

I just completed welding a new bull horn on and got my qtr panel tacked. The new bull horn did not have a hole for bolting it to the frame so now I have to cut a hole for the bolt with a tour h cannt get a drill in the space allowed. Oh well one step forward two back. S

 

[shipmag]

This is the qtr panel tacked on.

 

[shipmag]

Well today I got the qtr panel welded. The bull horn looks like it was 1/4 inch to long which caused more gap between the qtr panel and the body. Wish i would have caught it earlier too late now. Ill just have to live with it. I changed to .023 wire and it made all the difference in the world. Didnt realize it until after I bought new drive rolls but my existing drive roll had a .023 groove by just rotating the drive roll. Oh well now I have two. I am using a Hobart 135 handler. 1/4 inch gaps are hard to fill but after grinding down the welds I only missed a spot 1/4 inch long. I was pleasantly surprised. I need to get a coarser paper for my DA done all I can do with a right angle grinder. I have degenerative arthritis and grinding down the welds had left my weist in a lot of pain. Nothing i can do about it but put up with
It im going to start on the bed patch next. I got the patch from classic cruisers and am happy with what I got. I ordered butt weld clamps from Harbor Freight for 15 bucks set of eight should get here about the time I need them. Dont know how I can set the Bed pan with the clamps without some help. Maybe i can figure it out. Welding with little or no gap is a lot easier. I found that making about 4 Places







with the mig on the new qtr panel made it easier to fill the gap. The existing metal is thinner and wants to burn thru. The pictures capture where I am at now. Once i get the air compressor working I can use the Da and smooth the welds out. I am going to try 40 grit paper, 80 grit aluminum oxide doesn't cut the welds.

 

[shipmag]

Well project is on hold until I find a shop to work in I can rent. This could rake months before I can find a place to work.

 

[shipmag]

Does any body in st louis knoe of a shop that can boil out and coat a couple fj40 gas tanks? I found Afton Radiator but know nothing about them. Im in cape a long way from St Louis so o would like some help finding a reputable shop.

 

[toyminator]

Does any body in st louis knoe of a shop that can boil out and coat a couple fj40 gas tanks? I found Afton Radiator but know nothing about them. Im in cape a long way from St Louis so o would like some help finding a reputable shop.

I can't speak for them personally but gravois auto radiator also does it and they've been around at the same location since the 70's so they can't be all bad. They are in the south city area.

However, I've never heard anything bad about Afton either.

 

[shipmag]

Thanks for the response. Afton just quoted me 456 dollars per tank. Ouch I will try to do it myself for 50 buckss if it was a couple 100 I would di it but not 456.

 

[autobon7]

Thanks for the response. Afton just quoted me 456 dollars per tank. Ouch I will try to do it myself for 50 buckss if it was a couple 100 I would di it but not 456.

If this has not been done yet try American Radiator in St Louis....been in business since 1946. I will be using them for my old BMW radiator if I can ever get some spare cash

 

[shipmag]

American wanted 250 to clean and coat the tank. At that cost I should just buy an after market from ccot.