7-pin trailer socket question/rigging up Kaymar 100-series towbar tail lights

[Jim_Chow]

The 7-pin trailer socket on the 100 has markings on the rubber cover indicating in the following terminals: +12v, ground, reverse, electric brake, left turning/stop, right turning/stop, parking light. Looking at the FSM wiring diagram, the turning/stop signal comes from the brake controller relays. Since I have zero experience with trailer lighting, my question is, does the turning signal for the trailer connection only flash when the brakes are not on, and once the brakes are applied, the brake light will override the turning signal?

I did turn the ignition "on" and verified that I got the parking light and turning signal voltages, but didn't have an assistant to step on the brake.

BTW, all this is for connecting the bumper tail lamps for my new Kaymar rear bar. The tail lamps that fit into the bar on each side have a parking light, turning light, and stop light. The bumper included a harness w/ OEM plug (6 pins, male plug), while the vague instructions merely say to plus it into the connector behind the fuel tank. Talking to the tech guy at Man-a-fre, he says to search for the same plug underneat the rig, unplug it, then plug the harness in. When queried about what I would be unplugging, he didn't know. So I'm skeptical about unplugging a connector only to find something else won't work. If I can't get separate turning signals/stop lights from the trailer connector, it looks like my only option will be to splice off the left/right tail lights (ie, remove outer taillight, splice the new wires and lead them out the grommet on the bottom; I've had success in using those little plastic splicer clips for internal splices; anything on the outside of the vehicle, I normally solder and shrinkwrap, then enclose in split loom.).

 

[100 TD]

Not sure this will help Jim, on the OZ 100 series, there is a 6 pin connector on the right side at the back underneath(behind our sub-fuel tank), which has a blank cover plug plugged into it. You remove that blank cover so you can plug in the trailer harness. On the American spec vehicle I am uncertain that it has ths as well as your standard wiring for the US (there are so many spare connectors everywhere or 8 pin ones with only 1 or 2 wires plugged into them). I am unsure of how your lights should work, our brake(stop) lights comes on without a key in the ignition with the barke pedal depressed, our tail(park) lamps need the park or headlights switched on and our indicator(turn) lamps flash when the IGN is on, all work seperately from each other, and can all be on together.

 

[100 TD]

When you look into the connector with the pins closest to the top(the equals sign is the slot in the housing for the locking pin to slide into, then the six pins then on the outside of the plastic the locator or connector designater


===
_ _ _
_ _ _

/

Is there a plastic locator at the seven o'clock position?

 

[Jim_Chow]

100TD, does your Oz-spec trailer wiring have it so the turning signal and brake lights are separate lights on the trailer? After doing some searching, it seems that US-spec trailer lights have a single lamp that acts as both a turning lamp and brake lamp. There's a relay box that takes the left/right turn signals and stop/brake signal as inputs, and gives two outputs (a 3-2 converter). In each output, the brake light and turning signal are combined. Many other countries have separate brake/turning lamps, so to use a US-spec vehicle in another country requiring that, one needs to get a 2-3 converter.

It sounds like this plug behind the fuel tank you're talking about it a plug before the 3-2 converter, as this is the only way I can get the brake and turning signals separated into 3 lines. According to my FSM electrical manual, there are two connectors feeding that converter box, and neither has the same pin layout as the Oz-spec connector.

It looks like my only options are to either use a 2-3 converter spliced into or connected to the trailer plug, or just directly splice off the rear tail lamps. If I do the first option, I'd have to hide the 2-3 converter in the rear quarter panel to protect it from weather. If the latter, I splice off the rear tail lamps, and the wiring just behind the tail lamps are pretty well protected from the weather, so that might be my best option.

The US-spec 100's have the trailer socket on the left side. Just behind and to the left of the spare, there's a 8-pin plug that comes out of the 3-2 converter. The 7-pin RV US trailer socket/wiring plugs into this.

 

[100 TD]

100TD, does your Oz-spec trailer wiring have it so the turning signal and brake lights are separate lights on the trailer?

YES

According to my FSM electrical manual, there are two connectors feeding that converter box, and neither has the same pin layout as the Oz-spec connector.

It looks like my only options are to either use a 2-3 converter spliced into or connected to the trailer plug, or just directly splice off the rear tail lamps. If I do the first option, I'd have to hide the 2-3 converter in the rear quarter panel to protect it from weather. If the latter, I splice off the rear tail lamps, and the wiring just behind the tail lamps are pretty well protected from the weather, so that might be my best option.

The US-spec 100's have the trailer socket on the left side. Just behind and to the left of the spare, there's a 8-pin plug that comes out of the 3-2 converter. The 7-pin RV US trailer socket/wiring plugs into this.

Splicing will probably be fine, thats what most shops do here if a connector is not provided, however if your ECU senses current draw to give blown bulb status it may create a problem.

We also have an 8 pin connector on the right side with only 1 pin used, although I haven't pulled it yet to see what is there.

 

[Jim_Chow]

YES



Splicing will probably be fine, thats what most shops do here if a connector is not provided, however if your ECU senses current draw to give blown bulb status it may create a problem.

We also have an 8 pin connector on the right side with only 1 pin used, although I haven't pulled it yet to see what is there.

I've decided to try the converter box method. I had to buy a new trailer socket and bracket since the OEM one won't fit w/ the Kaymar. There's also no room in the rear quarter panel to splice...too many harnesses (I counted 8) in one area, plus the grommet where the wires exit is way down there where my hand can't reach. My plan to splice off the trailer socket should work, I hope. They have dedicated fuses, so current draw shouldn't be a problem.