‘69 Time Capsule

[69JortsGuy]

Hi All,

Thought you’d appreciate what I picked up yesterday. Previous owners father ran into transfer case issues in the 80s (presumably between 85 and 86 as that was the last registration). He parked it in his garage in Las Vegas… and there it sat. Until yesterday. I drove ~14 hours round trip for the rescue mission. I was told the last time it was started was around 1990. Will be going through everything, but start with a good deep clean. Essentially zero body rust, rear tub shows minimal use. Frame still has the original coating.

There’s a million ways to skin a cat but… what should be my order of operations here? I’m thinking brakes will be near the top, primarily because I’ll be sad when I get it running and I can’t take it around the block!

I have the original pink slip from ‘69, original tool bag (with grease gun!), a bunch of service records, and the receipt from San Francisco where he bought it. Random question - I saw someone comment on a blue 40 about the gas cap (it was blue) is that factory? I only ask because mine is also blue and I would have been surprised if he got a repaint but you never know.

Looking forward to sharing as I get it back on the road.

Cheers.

 

[69JortsGuy]

Oh also, hi. Consider this my intro post!

 

[Pighead]

Bezel.

 

[SteveH]

Lots to love there. Take lots of photos after you clean it, but before you remove any parts. The under-dash mounted radio is a real treat.

Don't even think of turning over the engine until you squirt some ATF in the spark plug holes. The change the oil filter, and drain and refill the oil (minus 1 quart) and remove the valve cover and dump the last quart all over the valve train. Then turn it over with the engine crank (plugs removed). Too easy to scarf up the engine (I'm assuming it's not stuck) by cranking it with a fresh battery, without attending to the oiling.

You have to baseline everything - cooling system, fuel system, wiring, brakes, ignition, suspension, 4WD vacuum system, body/latches/window regulators, etc. Make a big ol' list of stuff to check, and work your way through it. Assume that nothing is 'ready to go' just by dint of the dry climate or low miles/disuse. Better safe than sorry. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

 

[onemanarmy]

don't change anything on the exterior (except the bezel)!
great find....how did you get word of it?

 

[SipLife]

Hi All,

Thought you’d appreciate what I picked up yesterday. Previous owners father ran into transfer case issues in the 80s (presumably between 85 and 86 as that was the last registration). He parked it in his garage in Las Vegas… and there it sat. Until yesterday. I drove ~14 hours round trip for the rescue mission. I was told the last time it was started was around 1990. Will be going through everything, but start with a good deep clean. Essentially zero body rust, rear tub shows minimal use. Frame still has the original coating.

There’s a million ways to skin a cat but… what should be my order of operations here? I’m thinking brakes will be near the top, primarily because I’ll be sad when I get it running and I can’t take it around the block!

I have the original pink slip from ‘69, original tool bag (with grease gun!), a bunch of service records, and the receipt from San Francisco where he bought it. Random question - I saw someone comment on a blue 40 about the gas cap (it was blue) is that factory? I only ask because mine is also blue and I would have been surprised if he got a repaint but you never know.

Looking forward to sharing as I get it back on the road.

Cheers.

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Wow that’s one hell of a find, what’s the story? Gas cap should be plated, not painted

 

[69JortsGuy]

don't change anything on the exterior (except the bezel)!
great find....how did you get word of it?

Okay I’ll bite. What am I missing about the bezel?

Found it on auto trader, was posted last Friday.

 

[69JortsGuy]

Wow that’s one hell of a find, what’s the story? Gas cap should be plated, not painted

I bought it from the son, the original owner passed and the son was cleaning the house in preparation to sell.

Son had fond memories wheeling around nor cal hunting with it. Here’s an old photo he sent me today. In his own words “That’s me trying to push it down my father is dying laughing at me”.

Ironically, the transfer case issues is what saved it all these years. Parked it with the “I’ll get to it eventually” mentality and never did.

 

[69JortsGuy]

Wow that’s one hell of a find, what’s the story? Gas cap should be plated, not painted

And mine is definitely painted… hmmm

 

[69JortsGuy]

Some more photos. Anybody want an aftermarket tank? Still half full with that primo leaded stuff

 

[greenbeasty]

Nice find!! The thick edge of the bezel is typically on the top edge, but there are some old pictures of it on bottom. A real sticking point with some. It would be really interesting to look closely at this one, try to determine if it was switched after factory installation.
Have fun with this one, please don't tear it so far down that you don't drive it for six years. As has already been said, baseline fluids, brakes, steering, new tires and get it running. It is a beautiful mostly unmolested example.
All the help you need is on this site, I've never met such a knowledge base in one location.

 

[pb4ugo]

Lots to love there. Take lots of photos after you clean it, but before you remove any parts. The under-dash mounted radio is a real treat.

Don't even think of turning over the engine until you squirt some ATF in the spark plug holes. The change the oil filter, and drain and refill the oil (minus 1 quart) and remove the valve cover and dump the last quart all over the valve train. Then turn it over with the engine crank (plugs removed). Too easy to scarf up the engine (I'm assuming it's not stuck) by cranking it with a fresh battery, without attending to the oiling.

You have to baseline everything - cooling system, fuel system, wiring, brakes, ignition, suspension, 4WD vacuum system, body/latches/window regulators, etc. Make a big ol' list of stuff to check, and work your way through it. Assume that nothing is 'ready to go' just by dint of the dry climate or low miles/disuse. Better safe than sorry. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

^^^^^^^There's a lot of good advice in this post. ^^^^^^

I'd also add, hand crank the engine 2 revolutions, so it goes thru all 4 strokes. B4 starting disconnect the fuel line and hook up a separate fuel source with fresh gas. Change all the fluids. The headlight bezel is upside down. The thick part should be on top. At this point Running, stopping and driving is the goal. It looks like a great find. Very original. We're here to help.

 

[wimberosa]

This one you really need to dial in lots of documentation pictures for us and careful steps on your way to road worthiness. I think we're all agog at what you've found.

 

[71FFJ40]

Nice find.
I have a similar 1969 all original time capsule and the gas cap is also painted body color.
What is going on with the scoop at the vent below the windshield?

 

[HoundDog]

Man, why don't I ever get this lucky? I'm stuck un-doing 40 years of previous owner hack jobs.

Great find!

 

[69JortsGuy]

Lots to love there. Take lots of photos after you clean it, but before you remove any parts. The under-dash mounted radio is a real treat.

Don't even think of turning over the engine until you squirt some ATF in the spark plug holes. The change the oil filter, and drain and refill the oil (minus 1 quart) and remove the valve cover and dump the last quart all over the valve train. Then turn it over with the engine crank (plugs removed). Too easy to scarf up the engine (I'm assuming it's not stuck) by cranking it with a fresh battery, without attending to the oiling.

You have to baseline everything - cooling system, fuel system, wiring, brakes, ignition, suspension, 4WD vacuum system, body/latches/window regulators, etc. Make a big ol' list of stuff to check, and work your way through it. Assume that nothing is 'ready to go' just by dint of the dry climate or low miles/disuse. Better safe than sorry. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Noted all around. Thank you much, Steve!

 

[brian]

Bezel.

6 minutes.....awesome

 

[diesellibrarian]

What a beauty! Congrats on your new 40 and welcome to the forum.

 

[ryaneddy16]

CHERRY! cant wait to see it cleaned up.

 

[Chamba]

Nice find!! The thick edge of the bezel is typically on the top edge, but there are some old pictures of it on bottom. A real sticking point with some. It would be really interesting to look closely at this one, try to determine if it was switched after factory installation.
Have fun with this one, please don't tear it so far down that you don't drive it for six years. As has already been said, baseline fluids, brakes, steering, new tires and get it running. It is a beautiful mostly unmolested example.
All the help you need is on this site, I've never met such a knowledge base in one location.

I wasn't aware there was any credible source for the bezel having the thick side down. A friend of mine back in the 80s would swap them to thick side down because he was convinced it offered better cooling...... but he was also convinced the earth was flat.

My folks bought a '72 brand new which came from Lyons Toyota with the thick side up (see picture when it was less than a year old). It's still in the family and still has the bezel thick side up. Every sales brochure I've seen from the era shows the thick side up. Many of the parts fiches I've seen show the bezel thick side up as well. Every owner's manual I'm aware of from the era also shows the bezel thick side up in the picture on the cover.

Earlier models of the 40 had LAND CRUISER stamped in to the thick side of the bezel, which made it far harder to install it upside-down. Later models had a safety catch handle which was hidden behind the thick side of the bezel when right- side- up, but stuck out like a dog's bullocks when thick side was down.

Great find, love the '69. Keep her three-on-the-tree, flip the bezel, remove the lead foot accelerator pedal and drive her with a massive smile on your face.