‘69 Time Capsule

[tyama]

There's a lot of great ideas posted so far. however, looking at the pristine condition of the vehicle, I would hesitate to do anything that would remove it from OEM. I know that the safety upgrades: disk brakes, dual brake MC, etc... are important, but your 40 could be a rare OEM driver that rarely exists. Anything that is rubber in the drivetrain will have to be replaced eventually, and all the maintenance checks with all fluid changes, grease, etc.. will be needed. It'll probably start leaking a small bit as it has sat for 40 years, and the drums are a pita. But...Very few people have gotten a 'Cruiser that is as close to OEM as the one you have. I would suggest getting it clean, shine the patina?, and drivable, use it as a grocery getter for awhile, take it to some car shows and TLCA meetings and have folks drool over what OEM looks like.

best, ty

 

[Chamba]

1/78-1/79 US market diffs were still 4.11:1 but pinion was fine spline. Wasn't until 8/88 that combo was used again in the US. Those the driveshaft flanges had changed.

You, John, are a legend.

 

[peesalot]

Favorite part, the hood alignment, that thing is so straight and actually has decent gap, coilovers too.

 

[brian]

I would be hesitant to do much other than making it more oe than it already is.

 

[69JortsGuy]

Thanks again everyone for the replies. No point getting too far down the rabbit hole of future "upgrades"/changes before I start delve a little deeper to see what I am working with (which is beginning tomorrow).

First things first, give the 57 year old girl a bath
Take photos (and post them for you dirty dogs)
Flip the bezel
Take more photos
Take apart brakes to see the condition currently is
Take even more photos

Someone mentioned they believe I may have an aftermarket carb. Will take MORE photos and post some later for you sleuths to do your thing.

If my existing brakes are not as far gone as originally thought, I will get those operational until a donor axle can be found.

The family and I have been planning on camping for labor day for a while now. I don't think I've ever been this NOT excited to go camping before. I'd rather geek out and get this thing operational, but such is life.

Cheers!

 

[H2o]

Keep it completely stock. I wouldn’t mess with the brakes. Once you start modifying, it is a slippery slope and it will lose value. Plus you get to drive it as it was out of the factory. Which is cool, and as someone said earlier becoming rarer and rarer

 

[pb4ugo]

Keep it completely stock. I wouldn’t mess with the brakes. Once you start modifying, it is a slippery slope and it will lose value. Plus you get to drive it as it was out of the factory. Which is cool, and as someone said earlier becoming rarer and rarer

Completely Stk? 57 year old belts and hoses, plugs, worn tre's. The coil over shocks aren't stk. I'd guess the springs are sagging. Knuckles and brakes are serviceable items.

It's your 40, you do you. I'd keep the family safe. Your on the right track. Clean it up and check things out. Base line it. Congrats on a great find. Get MMO in the cylinders and let them soak. Have you driven a 40 b4?

 

[69JortsGuy]

Completely Stk? 57 year old belts and hoses, plugs, worn tre's. The coil over shocks aren't stk. I'd guess the springs are sagging. Knuckles and brakes are serviceable items.

It's your 40, you do you. I'd keep the family safe. Your on the right track. Clean it up and check things out. Base line it. Congrats on a great find. Get MMO in the cylinders and let them soak. Have you driven a 40 b4?

Fair points! I think there is a good middle ground I will find. Mostly stock but quasi modern.

As promised, done under hood photos. At least one cable is not connected to my carby I just noticed. Both choke and (high idle?) knobs are stuck/not moving. Any insight to free them before I break something?

TIA.

Cheers!

 

[SteveH]

RE: stuck cables

Squirt WD40 into the cable at the dash end (lightly, if you can get some onto the shaft) and heavily at the carb/choke end. Cables tend to rust and get gunky at the ends, not so much in the middle. You might also choose to loosen the screws at the carb end, and exercise the cable separately from what it controls. If the cable sheath is not vinyl covered, you can spray WD40 along the whole length of the cable, where you have access.

While you're doing all this, check the linkages (what's operated by the cable) and see that they are free-moving.