62 wiper motor stops, linkage is good

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May 11, 2018
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91945
1988 fj62.
Would appreciate some opinions. Wipers weren't working. Pulled the motor, the linkage was off and the bushings decentigrated. Ordered a new bushing and replaced. Perfect! Motor are joint fits right in. Reinstall motor, arms move about a quarter and motor stops. Removed the motor, figured the linkage slipped out, nope its in there solid. Pulled the motor, ran it with it grounded and plugged in just sitting in the engine bay. Ran fine, all modes. Figured maybe the linkage was bound up. Ran the linkage through its motions, easy to do with one hand. Reinstalled motor, did it again, exact same travel. Checked the fuse, all good, pulled the relay and ran just Lo/Hi. Nothing.
So I figure its a bad ground, multi reads out good continuity between ground and frame and battery.
The motor gets hot, quick like within three or four rotations, like its over working.
I pulled it and tried to add resistance to the linkage arm to simulate the linkage maybe being too much resistance. I couldn't get it to stop rotating. Even with putting a wrench on it and trying to hold it back.
I just can't figure out why the thing stops almost immediately when installed in the truck.
Once it move that small bit. There's no getting it started again. Pulling the plug, pulling the dude, ignition off, unplugging the wiper relay. I think I've taken the motor in and out a dozen times atleast trouble shooting.
Anyone got suggestions?
I would say I need a new wiper motor, but the way that it works with it unmounted and trying to give it resistance tells me otherwise. That thing is strong as ever. I also took it apart, its clean as a whistles no dirt or corrosion. Magnets are intact, the three brushes are in good shape.
 
Went in and greased and check the linkages too. Theyre tight smooth and greased. I can easily rotate the wipers and linkages by hand with the motor/control rod end by hand.
 
Did you flip wiper arms off windshield, to remove that resistance on dry glass? Granted, the motor should overcome that, but it would eliminate a possible friction point.
 
Yep, I took the arms completely off.
Still does it. After greasing the hinges up good on the linkage, it takes almost no effort to move the arms and linkage by hand. I can only think that the linkage is hitting and getting lodged in there somewhere.
 
Also, the reasoning im thinking the linkage is hitting and getting bound up, it stops in the same spot every time.
I think im gonna have to get creative and stick a gopro behind the motor and see whats happening from the inside.
 
You may be able to see if you remove the two black oval covers to the right of the motor - center and far right - in the firewall
 
I just went back and saw that you can move the linkage/arms by hand thru the full range. Doesn't sound like its binding.

I had a similar motor issue with my rear passenger window motor. Window went down a few days ago and wouldn't go back up. Pulled motor, hot wired it directly to battery, worked fine, both directions. Checked continuity on switch, checked voltage at last connector, with switch in both directions. Made sure both connectors at door were clean. Plugged motor in, outside of door. Worked fine. Installed it. Worked fine. Put roller/arm in glass channel. No Joy. Pulled motor, hot wire check at battery. Worked fine. Checked power at connector. Check. Reinstalled motor, connected. Worked fine. Continues to work, moving faster than it did previously, both up and down. Thru it all, I noticed the single switch at the door has some horizontal play, as opposed to just rocking vertically when used. I'm going to order a couple of replacements. My point after that shaggy dog story is that I am wondering if your power to the motor is constant or if you are getting a power failure after the initial draw. What about checking/monitoring for power at the motor connector?
 
Thanks for that suggestion. I figured it out. I ordered the ebay Chinese replacement bushings. They work, and pretty well, atleast better than I expected. But, theres a small protrusion inside the bushing that spaces the lever ball away by maybe an 1/8". This is enough to have the backside of that bushing hit the firewall/cabin intake. So, i ground out that protrusion, and it worked. But, I still had a little knock everytime it went around and bumped that part of the firewall. So, I took the bushing and sanded the backside down for clearance. It was either that or take a drift to the firewall, which actually has a very sharp protruding seem and that's what was originally hanging it up. It works! I can barely hear just the slightest of rubs if I put my ear next to it. If I find that it wears the bushing or knocks it off, ill hammer that seem in with a drift. See pics.

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Yeah, same thing, go through the ebay site. Waaaay cheaper. I ordered like a dozen. I broke two figuring it all out.
 

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