60K service (1 Viewer)

[firensteel]

Hi guys, just performed this 60k mile service, checked brakes and cv boots etc and all good. Tires only have 3K on them so they can wait for rotation and engine oil only has 6K at this point.Coolant change can be next weekend, the drain pan I ordered is not coming until Monday .

I drained and refilled front diff, transfer case and rear diff. There is a package available online from Amazon that is a Toyota product containing the correct gaskets for $5, it included copper gasket and crush washer for front diff, 2 x plain washers for Transfer case plugs and crush washers for rear diff plugs.I used Mobil One 75W/90 synthetic gear oil and a Pews pump to install, that worked great.
I replaced the spark plugs with new Denso plugs, that was easy! I saw some youtube vids on 2007 FJ's which showed removing a lot of stuff but all I had to remove was the plastic top engine cover that just plugs in with no tools on my 2012. That was easy but needed a couple of long extensions to reach the plugs, was a good excuse to buy new tools. A good buy is a 10 inch long 3/8 "wobble" extension, it gives 10 degrees in 4 directions, like a universal joint but not as much, works great on the drivers side plugs. Bought a plug wrench that has a magnetic tip and built-in 10 inch extension.The drivers side plugs do well with 20 inches of extension!!
Also bought a new "click" torque wrench.Goes down to 5 lbs/ft so great for the coil bolts at 7 ft/lbs. Was surprised to see that Toyota did not use anti-seize at the factory, the plugs were squeaky to remove! Used a dielectric silicone grease on re-applying the coils.


I also greased the 6 points on the drive-lines. Only trouble I have is with the front u-joint on the rear driveline. I have to change tips to one that is a needle type tip cos I can't get the standard tip in at the angle the driveline sits when on the ground or on jack stands. Easy job though if you put the car on stands and put in neutral so you can rotate the drivelines to get the best angle for the grease nipples.

Overall very easy and the FJ is ready for more miles! With no rush this took me a saturday morning to complete, probably 4 hours. I imagine the coolant change next weekend will take this long because of the flush time and cool down time to replace coolant. Anyway, I will report on that next week.
Steve.

 

[lgrt]

Nice job... the FJC is pretty easy to work on and most things are pretty accessible.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

I know they modified the motor in 2010 but my 2008 calls for the valves to be inspected at 60K and adjusted if needed. I'm at 62K and just hesitant because that's a huge job just to inspect. To adjust means pulling 4 cams, buying new lifters (unless you're crazy lucky and you can swap them around to get clearances in spec - not likely with 24 valves.)

Having said that there's guys that never even inspect their valves on Toyota's and of course they run forever anyway. The 3RZ in my Tacoma needed adjustment at 60K but not badly and I didn't notice any difference in performance and noise.

My Toyotas are manual trans but I find they shift better after greasing the driveline (mostly due to the slip yokes I bet.) And I have recently changed from Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil to Redline and wow what a difference. On my FJ Cruiser I think I have 3 or 4 different gear oils: Limited Slip for the front axle, GL4 gear oil for the manual trans (recommended by Toyota), straight up GL5 for the rear (electric locker) and transfer case (Torsen limited slip - all gear limited slip so unlike the front axle no friction modifiers.) \\

Eric

 

[BMThiker]

I'm pushing 190K on my odo and have never adjusted the valves, but you got me curious and I just snipped this from a 4R forum site. The guy I quoted works at a dealership...

Toyota recommends Valve Adjustments every 5yr/60k; but typically with the shim/bucket style set up you can go about 100~120k while still being within specifications. That being said I still would recommend one you hit the 100~120k range to get a valve adjustment done on your V6 or V8 as a maintenance item to make sure everything is running at its best. It's a bit pricey but at that mileage you're replacing the valve cover gasket, your 4th set of plugs (on the 1GR-FE its every 30k, the V8 uses Iridiums that are replaced at 100k) and so on.​

Looks like I may look into this sooner, rather than later. I've already got a very very slight valve cover leak that I've been meaning to repair.

 

[BMThiker]

Found another post with this info:

For the 1grfe (v6), the total clearance range (tolerance) on the intake and exhaust, each, is .004" (4 thousandths of an inch). Not really what I would call a wide range. They are solid lifters, not hydraulic.
Spec is (cold) Intake: .006 to .010; Exhaust: .011 to .015.

There is no "SHIM"; as in a little sliver of metal that is specific thickness (ex .001) that you insert between the lifter and cam or something else. The whole lifter is sized to a specific thickness. You have to replace the whole solid lifter with one of the correct thickness to change the clearance.

It is all in the Svc manual. Here is an excerpt:

(3) Select a new lifter with a thickness as close as
possible to the calculated value.
HINT:
Lifters are available in 35 sizes in increments of
0.020 mm (0.0008 in.), from 5.060 mm (0.1992
in.) to 5.740 mm (0.2260 in.).

Changing the lifters is no easy task. The Cams have to be removed along with the timing change tensioners. I don't think Toyota expected them to be changed/adjusted much, if at all (even though our svc manual states that the clearances need to be checked every 30/60k miles or so).​

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Yeah the 3RZ in the Tacoma has shims over bucket and they are $8 or $10/piece. I never did price the 1GR lifter but I wouldn't want to buy 6 or 8 of them in any event. When I did the Tacoma I got lucky and was able to swap a bunch around and 16 valves I only had to buy one shim I think.

And yeah with shims you can compress the lifter and sneak the shim in and out of there. With there being no shims in the 1GR you HAVE to pull the cams.

The guy on the 4Runner forum was right that it's a good chance to get in there and look around - but seeing the 1GR is so much more labor I'll probably let it ride at least until 75K.

Thanks for the information.

Eric

 

[firensteel]

Hi there BMT, you wrote: ///plugs (on the 1GR-FE its every 30k, the V8 uses Iridiums that are replaced at 100k)///
My V-6 came with Iridium Denso's. The manual says 100k for replacement but I can't imagine trying to get those out after that mileage. Mine were pretty squeaky to get out since Toyota used no anti-seize lube. I used that on all of them. I replaced them though they looked ok, because the "severe" duty in the manual calls for 55k replacement and I go off road a lot and that driving is much more severe than street driving. But like I said, easy job on my 2012, $44 for plugs, $1 for dielectric silicone grease for the coil boots and 1 hour to do all 6.
Steve.

 

[TrickyT]

Found another post with this info:

For the 1grfe (v6), the total clearance range (tolerance) on the intake and exhaust, each, is .004" (4 thousandths of an inch). Not really what I would call a wide range. They are solid lifters, not hydraulic.
Spec is (cold) Intake: .006 to .010; Exhaust: .011 to .015.

There is no "SHIM"; as in a little sliver of metal that is specific thickness (ex .001) that you insert between the lifter and cam or something else. The whole lifter is sized to a specific thickness. You have to replace the whole solid lifter with one of the correct thickness to change the clearance.

It is all in the Svc manual. Here is an excerpt:

(3) Select a new lifter with a thickness as close as
possible to the calculated value.
HINT:
Lifters are available in 35 sizes in increments of
0.020 mm (0.0008 in.), from 5.060 mm (0.1992
in.) to 5.740 mm (0.2260 in.).

Changing the lifters is no easy task. The Cams have to be removed along with the timing change tensioners. I don't think Toyota expected them to be changed/adjusted much, if at all (even though our svc manual states that the clearances need to be checked every 30/60k miles or so).​

Wow. This will be a fairly major project when the time comes. Has anyone seen a thread on any forum that documents someone doing this?

 

[BMThiker]

Hi there BMT, you wrote: ///plugs (on the 1GR-FE its every 30k, the V8 uses Iridiums that are replaced at 100k)///
My V-6 came with Iridium Denso's. The manual says 100k for replacement but I can't imagine trying to get those out after that mileage. Mine were pretty squeaky to get out since Toyota used no anti-seize lube. I used that on all of them. I replaced them though they looked ok, because the "severe" duty in the manual calls for 55k replacement and I go off road a lot and that driving is much more severe than street driving. But like I said, easy job on my 2012, $44 for plugs, $1 for dielectric silicone grease for the coil boots and 1 hour to do all 6.
Steve.

Yeah, I just recently changed my plugs for the 3rd time and a couple of them were extremely hard to get out. I was worried I was going to shear one off in the engine. I put a healthy dose of copper-based anti-seize on them.

Here's further evidence that my valve cover gasket is leaking too. Ring of oil on the coil pack assembly right where the valve cover gasket is located.

 

[firensteel]

Wow. This will be a fairly major project when the time comes. Has anyone seen a thread on any forum that documents someone doing this?

Lots of info on this in the Blue Room if you do a search.
We have a Tacoma at work with 500k on it and this valve service has never been performed, its the same 1GRFE engine from 2011 that I have. That truck runs like a top and is the most reliable truck we have.
These engines did go through a huge upgrade/modernization/change in 2010 model year. The valves are hydraulic not bucket and shim for e.g.. The oil filter got changed to a bottom mount cartridge, the plugs changed to iridium, oil changed to full synthetic, etc etc, all to increase endurance and gas mileage. Different intake set-up, a bellows system to quiet down the intake air noise. Larger air filter. Etc.

 

[firensteel]

Just performed coolant change on my 2012. Another great opportunity to buy a new tool !!!! Had to get a 3/8 universal joint. I only had 1/2 inch versions. The coolant plugs on the block are great ideas. I wish I would have remembered to get hose to plug on them, oh well, with the skids off they didn't really drain too far from the drainpipe and I have large drain pans. The universal was required on the drivers side because there is no straight shot at that petcock.! Passenger side is simple.
With a cold engine I drained the engine petcocks and the radiator drain.( Of course with radiator cap removed. ) I got the correct amount out. So I know the heater core drained too. Sealed up the petcocks and radiator drain and refilled with Toyota brand pre-mix coolant (pink). Got it all in at first try!! Burped hoses but didn't need extra. BTW I did remove and drain the overflow container and refilled it as well. Pretty simple project and was required on my engine at 50K but I forgot about it until last week. My mileage is 59,119.
Coolant didn't seem dirty enough to require a flush this time. I will do that at 100K.