Still trying to determine IF it is burning oil at this point. As you say, a quart in 200 miles would be smoking like crazy. Grogan would be embarrassed to drive it.
60 series....Tech and Classifieds (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bomar
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Yep. That's the crazy thing. No noticeable smoke from the drivers seat looking back.
You can see it when you follow and switch gears. A puff comes out.
The only thing I really know how to do on the above troubleshoot list is pull plugs.
No compression. No manual oil pressure.
Looking back at my notes I started the 15/50 rotation in (not a drain and fill since so much goes through) 500 miles ago.
I'm going to go get that high Mile 20w/50 Castrol and start working it in.
Bossman hit the nail on the head. It's not in the least bit embarrassing to drive at this point so I'm going to keep dumping oil in it and drive.
You can see it when you follow and switch gears. A puff comes out.
The only thing I really know how to do on the above troubleshoot list is pull plugs.
No compression. No manual oil pressure.
Looking back at my notes I started the 15/50 rotation in (not a drain and fill since so much goes through) 500 miles ago.
I'm going to go get that high Mile 20w/50 Castrol and start working it in.
Bossman hit the nail on the head. It's not in the least bit embarrassing to drive at this point so I'm going to keep dumping oil in it and drive.
A 50 wt oil is a fifty weight oil... one does not leak more than another.
Your mechanical issue are unrelated to the type of oil used.
ZDDP is needed to protect the cam lobes long term not fix your engine.
I showed you an email from Castrol where they specifically did not recommend their oil for a 2F in writing...
Are your valves adjusted correctly?
Rent a compression tester from some place like Autozone, it's easy 1/2 banana job.
Your mechanical issue are unrelated to the type of oil used.
ZDDP is needed to protect the cam lobes long term not fix your engine.
I showed you an email from Castrol where they specifically did not recommend their oil for a 2F in writing...
Are your valves adjusted correctly?
Rent a compression tester from some place like Autozone, it's easy 1/2 banana job.
I have a compression tester if you want to borrow it sometime. Or you can rock on ignoring the oil until you need to drop a V8 in it.
This engine liked that molasses thick Castrol High Mileage. Consumption almost stopped.
I like Andy's idea.
Making a video now. Hang on
I like Andy's idea.
Making a video now. Hang on
Last edited:
Maybe you could just roll it under carport de Cam for a few weeks and see if a LS appears under the hood.
Bluff City Hybrids does have one open bay in the carport right now
Here is a cold start video
About 5 minutes crunched into 2
Let me know what this tells you.
About 5 minutes crunched into 2
Let me know what this tells you.
I'm no help, but it sounds good.
company in there
Card trick looks pretty good. Some smoke but not as much as some. Get somebody to follow at your normal driving speed. Guessing you spend a good but of time above 2500?
We need to get over that way in December to visit. I'll bring my compression gauge and we will check the plugs.
We need to get over that way in December to visit. I'll bring my compression gauge and we will check the plugs.
Guest house is open and Bomar has a damn elliptical he made me hold a year needs s partial ride
I watch it at night. Very little with headlights behind me. That's where I usually see a smokey engine
Texican
s-Moderator
Does it still have a Cat? If so they get hot enough to eliminate oil smoke from the exhaust ........you ever park it on cement to check for drippage?
BTW can't believe you followed advise from a pencil geek over a card carrying Texas Redneck
BTW can't believe you followed advise from a pencil geek over a card carrying Texas Redneck
For what it's worth, I'd run 20W50 in a higher mileage Yota motor in a heartbeat. Wait a minute... I do!
Texican
s-Moderator
Zinc is needed primarily on new start ups......if this truly concerns you use a quart of Castrol diesel oil per change, or zinc additive
"Go back to the Castrol 20w50 and run it" - Well put
Castrol's plain old dino oil in 20-50 kept 3 old MB diesels purring for us for years; the same in 10-40 has taken the 80 to over 350K. Dump it every 3500 miles or so, 5K at most, and keep on for years. I designed high pressure / temp hydraulics pump & motors for a couple of decades, picking up interesting tidbits along the way on oil additives & wear testing, especially in some applied R&D on tribology and when we did a couple of 5000 psi units running on engine and compressor oils instead of typical fluids. I only run synthetic in C's X5 because it started that way from the get go; it's moved from the Mobile 0-40 to MB's 5-40 now and I noticed some decrease in oil added between those longer interval synthetic changes.
Unless you where changing from a truely crappy oil where they went cheap on the additives to save a buck, life improvements to older engines by suddenly introducing synthetics are just not likely to be there. The wear-in of contact pairs for the components happened early on; peaks of the surface texture asperities wore as influenced by loading and the elasto-hydrodynamic film of the original fluids. Well machined components of an LC engine will have settled in to a clipped peak / oil retaining valley comfort place on an Abbott Firestone curve - don't change their eco-system and make the process seek adjustment.
Castrol's plain old dino oil in 20-50 kept 3 old MB diesels purring for us for years; the same in 10-40 has taken the 80 to over 350K. Dump it every 3500 miles or so, 5K at most, and keep on for years. I designed high pressure / temp hydraulics pump & motors for a couple of decades, picking up interesting tidbits along the way on oil additives & wear testing, especially in some applied R&D on tribology and when we did a couple of 5000 psi units running on engine and compressor oils instead of typical fluids. I only run synthetic in C's X5 because it started that way from the get go; it's moved from the Mobile 0-40 to MB's 5-40 now and I noticed some decrease in oil added between those longer interval synthetic changes.
Unless you where changing from a truely crappy oil where they went cheap on the additives to save a buck, life improvements to older engines by suddenly introducing synthetics are just not likely to be there. The wear-in of contact pairs for the components happened early on; peaks of the surface texture asperities wore as influenced by loading and the elasto-hydrodynamic film of the original fluids. Well machined components of an LC engine will have settled in to a clipped peak / oil retaining valley comfort place on an Abbott Firestone curve - don't change their eco-system and make the process seek adjustment.
Nothing gets a mud thread humming quite like a good 'ol motor oil debate. 
Nolen, this thing eats oil like my dryer eats socks. We can run a compression test (or even a leak down test) but are you really going to rebuild the motor or start digging around in the bottom half regardless of what we find? Doubtful. I think it's curiosity more than anything that is bugging you. For some good legalese, just run it until the earlier of the following to occur: (a) it gets embarrassing; or (b) it dies. Then, sell it to me cheap for a v8 or diesel swap.
Nolen, this thing eats oil like my dryer eats socks. We can run a compression test (or even a leak down test) but are you really going to rebuild the motor or start digging around in the bottom half regardless of what we find? Doubtful. I think it's curiosity more than anything that is bugging you. For some good legalese, just run it until the earlier of the following to occur: (a) it gets embarrassing; or (b) it dies. Then, sell it to me cheap for a v8 or diesel swap.
We might as well be discussing deodorant... I got my advice from Jim C. Basically, if the wear has started past the hardening of the cam lobes, a high amountt of zinc is the only hope to slow it down. Wiping of the cam lobes is eminent after that.
Castrol is not making the oil with same chemistry as 1985. Some fail to see that.
Regardless if you put baby oil in there, you still have a mechanical issue as the root cause and none of this matters until that's tended to.
Castrol is not making the oil with same chemistry as 1985. Some fail to see that.
Regardless if you put baby oil in there, you still have a mechanical issue as the root cause and none of this matters until that's tended to.
