You can part it at my house. Not sure if that would help tho
60 series....Tech and Classifieds (19 Viewers)
- Thread starter Bomar
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I guess I could buy it, put the semi-float rear & unlocked front back under it, and send it back out into the wild.
But I don't have a tow rig, trailer, etc.
But I don't have a tow rig, trailer, etc.
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Lots of work.
maybe we need to pool our money and invest in a CottonLand roll-back.....it'd dang sure get a lot of use!
Milestone
Infant.
For the record, this thing is back to bleeding oil with the 15w-50 synthetic that that Fing Braswell recommended. It has ZDDP though.......
Still no visible smoke. Running superb. No leaks. Nothing.
I'll keep dumping this expensive oil in it and enjoying the ride.
ZDDP to the top.
Still no visible smoke. Running superb. No leaks. Nothing.
I'll keep dumping this expensive oil in it and enjoying the ride.
ZDDP to the top.
Try Rotella. Many claim that solves the oil-eating problem. Rob's frankenmotor 1FZ ate M1 15-50, but I think he too changed to Rotella or Delo.
BTW, what is ZDDP?
I would avoid synthetic oil on older high mileage motors. Seems like the synthetics find any available opportunity to seap.
It's crazy. I have never seen anything like this. This Cruiser runs and drives perfect.
I am keeping a log.....the last time I filled it was 220 miles ago.....it needed 2 quarts today
I am keeping a log.....the last time I filled it was 220 miles ago.....it needed 2 quarts today
When you pull the oil fill cap with the engine running is there a lot of air rushing out? I think you said no noticeable leaks? Have you pulled the plugs and checked their color? That much oil consumption has to show up somewhere.
When the motor is warm if I open the cap to fill it looks like steam rising out of the fill cap
Nothing in the cooking system.
Runs so goid.....
No air rushing out
Nothing in the cooking system.
Runs so goid.....
No air rushing out
No noticeable air rushing out is good. Suggests that rings are probably good and PCV system is functioning properly.
How does the tailpipe look? Color and wet/dry. Take a business card (or similar) and fold in 1/3-2/3. Hold the bottom 1/3 to the bottom of the tailpipe while the engine idles. Do the exhaust pulses steadily push the card away or does the card get sucked back into the pipe? This will give us a quick and dirty look at the valve condition/adjustment.
How does the tailpipe look? Color and wet/dry. Take a business card (or similar) and fold in 1/3-2/3. Hold the bottom 1/3 to the bottom of the tailpipe while the engine idles. Do the exhaust pulses steadily push the card away or does the card get sucked back into the pipe? This will give us a quick and dirty look at the valve condition/adjustment.
I'll do it
This raises a question though
Is it cheaper to rebuild a 2F before or after it dies?
My RZR motor would have been way cheaper if I was preemptive.
This raises a question though
Is it cheaper to rebuild a 2F before or after it dies?
My RZR motor would have been way cheaper if I was preemptive.
I honestly don't think you are looking at a full rebuild yet. The answer is cheaper early but lets figure a little more out first.
The first check is a rough assessment of your rings. Next we will get an idea of the valve train. Next question is oil pressure do you have 20 or so at warm idle? 40 or more lbs under load?
Last check will be to look at the condition of your plugs and do a compression check. Do you have a compression tester?
The first check is a rough assessment of your rings. Next we will get an idea of the valve train. Next question is oil pressure do you have 20 or so at warm idle? 40 or more lbs under load?
Last check will be to look at the condition of your plugs and do a compression check. Do you have a compression tester?
Texican
s-Moderator
Go back to the Castrol 20w50 and run it
I've always been told zinc = good, but synthetic in high mileage motors = bad. Something about it cleaning things out and fresh oil finding seals that have long since been dried out. If it isn't marking its territory and doesn't seem to be building pressure in the valve cover then I'm gonna get on the Bossman train of thought, sounds like valve seals are shot.
If that were the case, you'd surely HAVE to see smoke out of the exhaust. A quart every 100 miles is a LOT of oil!
I can see smoke from my 80, and it "only" uses a quart per 1,000.....
