Replacing the fuel filter on a 2001 4runner
Disclaimer
Be careful when doing your own car work and you are going to be playing with fuel, so don't be dumb. No smoking and put away the incandescent/halogen shop bulbs.
Tools/products I used:
14mm flarenut/tubenut wrench
19mm open end wrench
3/8" drive - 6" extension and 12mm socket
1/4" drive - 3" extension and 10mm socket
wire brush
pry tool
antiseize lubricant
spray penetrant lube of your choice, emphasis on penetrant for rust/corrosion.
nitrile gloves
drain pan
rags
You can locate your fuel filter by looking straight at the drivers side mirror if you were walking up to it on that side.
The fuel filter is located a foot or so back from the body and just on the other side of the frame under the drivers mirror.
Once you get under there you will probably run into one of these. No doubt some will find theirs missing.
The above is held on with three M8 bolts with 12mm heads and one of those plastic tree things, here is where I needed the screwdriver to pry out the tree...many tools would work here and some might not even need one.
Parts:
New OEM filter
Earlier in the day I soaked down the filter connections and mounting nuts.
Mine wasn't terrible compared to some of the pictures I've seen, but just soaking them down in a good penetrant oil does wonders.
Use the wire brush to brush away the rust and corrosion that you can get off.
Next open the hood and pull the cover off the relay box on the drivers inner fender and find the EFI relay and pull it out.
Move to the cab and crank the engine over for about 3 to 5 seconds, if it starts it will die shortly, turn off the key.
Pop the fuel door and move further on back to relieve the pressure in the tank.
Using a 14mm flare nut wrench and a 19mm open end, break free the fuel lines at the inlet and outlet of the filter.
If you position the wrenches between your open hand grip, squeeze the two wrenches together in your fist and you can generate a lot of force in close quarters that way.
Unscrew the filter nut until hand tight.
Place drain pan with rag in it under the filter.
Loosen the M6 (ten mm head) mounting bracket nuts till the filter can fall down a bit and loosen filter nuts till fuel exits both sides of the filter into the drain pan. I lost about a half a quart of gasoline.
Remove M6 nuts and pull filter off studs. Wipe out filter nuts with a clean rag.
Install new filter making sure the larger disc portion of the filter points toward the rear of the vehicle.
Position the filter below or just on the mounting studs and hand tighten the fuel lines on the filter (they are easy to cross thread with a wrench) Once the fuel lines are threaded, push up the filter and install the M6 locknuts. (I used antiseize on my studs due to rust formation.
The torque spec for the fuel lines is 18 ft/lbs.......You would need a 14mm Weatherhead fitting socket and torque wrench. I tightened them down till they stopped, essentially.
Tighten down the fuel cap, replace the EFI relay and start it.*
It's going to crank for what seems like a long time. Also, it may start and die.
Get it started and immediately get under and look for any fuel leak at all. When you are convinced you've got a leak free 4runner, install the plastic shield into it's place. (Antiseize was also applied to the M8 bolts that go into the frame)
Here is what my OE filter with 110,000 miles on it looked like. Mud gas ran out of it when I cut it open.
The difference was amazing. It feels as if I've gained fifteen horsepower.
It is truly amazing what you will put up with if introduced a little at a time. I didn't even know my s*** was slow.
Next one is going in at about a 160,000 miles.
Disclaimer
Be careful when doing your own car work and you are going to be playing with fuel, so don't be dumb. No smoking and put away the incandescent/halogen shop bulbs.
Tools/products I used:
14mm flarenut/tubenut wrench
19mm open end wrench
3/8" drive - 6" extension and 12mm socket
1/4" drive - 3" extension and 10mm socket
wire brush
pry tool
antiseize lubricant
spray penetrant lube of your choice, emphasis on penetrant for rust/corrosion.
nitrile gloves
drain pan
rags
You can locate your fuel filter by looking straight at the drivers side mirror if you were walking up to it on that side.
The fuel filter is located a foot or so back from the body and just on the other side of the frame under the drivers mirror.
Once you get under there you will probably run into one of these. No doubt some will find theirs missing.
The above is held on with three M8 bolts with 12mm heads and one of those plastic tree things, here is where I needed the screwdriver to pry out the tree...many tools would work here and some might not even need one.
Parts:
New OEM filter
Earlier in the day I soaked down the filter connections and mounting nuts.
Mine wasn't terrible compared to some of the pictures I've seen, but just soaking them down in a good penetrant oil does wonders.
Use the wire brush to brush away the rust and corrosion that you can get off.
Next open the hood and pull the cover off the relay box on the drivers inner fender and find the EFI relay and pull it out.
Move to the cab and crank the engine over for about 3 to 5 seconds, if it starts it will die shortly, turn off the key.
Pop the fuel door and move further on back to relieve the pressure in the tank.
Using a 14mm flare nut wrench and a 19mm open end, break free the fuel lines at the inlet and outlet of the filter.
If you position the wrenches between your open hand grip, squeeze the two wrenches together in your fist and you can generate a lot of force in close quarters that way.
Unscrew the filter nut until hand tight.
Place drain pan with rag in it under the filter.
Loosen the M6 (ten mm head) mounting bracket nuts till the filter can fall down a bit and loosen filter nuts till fuel exits both sides of the filter into the drain pan. I lost about a half a quart of gasoline.
Remove M6 nuts and pull filter off studs. Wipe out filter nuts with a clean rag.
Install new filter making sure the larger disc portion of the filter points toward the rear of the vehicle.
Position the filter below or just on the mounting studs and hand tighten the fuel lines on the filter (they are easy to cross thread with a wrench) Once the fuel lines are threaded, push up the filter and install the M6 locknuts. (I used antiseize on my studs due to rust formation.
The torque spec for the fuel lines is 18 ft/lbs.......You would need a 14mm Weatherhead fitting socket and torque wrench. I tightened them down till they stopped, essentially.
Tighten down the fuel cap, replace the EFI relay and start it.*
It's going to crank for what seems like a long time. Also, it may start and die.
Get it started and immediately get under and look for any fuel leak at all. When you are convinced you've got a leak free 4runner, install the plastic shield into it's place. (Antiseize was also applied to the M8 bolts that go into the frame)
Here is what my OE filter with 110,000 miles on it looked like. Mud gas ran out of it when I cut it open.
The difference was amazing. It feels as if I've gained fifteen horsepower.
It is truly amazing what you will put up with if introduced a little at a time. I didn't even know my s*** was slow.
Next one is going in at about a 160,000 miles.
Last edited: