5.7 4l60e SOA 60 driveshaft transmission pan Clearance

[chicago]

Yea just to four wheel but I really want to get a cv up there for those rare occasions I get into snow. I'm pretty sure I can make it fit. I'll post up some pictures of how it goes. As a side note I did offset the engine slightly when I installed it so that helps me a little bit as well. I'll get the cv shaft on tuesday or wednesday and then I'll see how close it is. I got the extra pan already in case. While i'm at it I figured i'd have the tranny beefed up a little more.
Correct me if I'm wrong but does an fj60 vibrate over 40-45 stock? It seems like they would as the pinion and transfer case angles don't match to begin with?

Where did you end up getting your shaft from, or did you have it...dont remember.
Ive never had my 62 over 20 MPH in FWD, so not sure on the vibes.
When I did the SOA, I kept the stock pinion angle and just moved the castor.
Its a wheeler, not a DD.

Look forward to seeing what you come up with.

 

[Kurtis]

If you don't need to go over 35 you shoud'nt have any problems. A driveshaft with 2 u joints will fit. Mine with the stock U joints fits. Its the cv that gives me the problems. I just wanna be able to do 60mph in 4wd If I want to go up north and play in the snow. I live in arizona so its not like its gonn a happen very often but I guess its just the thought that it would vibrate that annoys me. You can get a U joint to flex 41 degrees, compared to the 30-35 of a high angle 1310 cv so really offroad U joints give you more flex. For my 60 with the 32 inch front drive shaft 30 degrees at the transfer case is more than enough to flex that thing as far as I can get it.

 

[bkfj40]

where is your pinion pointed? if it is pointed at the t-case, then a cv would work without vibrations. If it isn't pointed at the tcase, then you still might get vibrations even with the cv joint.

 

[Kurtis]

I've got a 10-11 degree drive shaft angle up top and a 3-4 at the bottom so It should be alright thats pretty close. If not I will add a cv at the bottom as well as my angles arent to extreme so I should have enough flex.

 

[Kurtis]

All I can say is this blows. Alright that said... its going to work. If I had more lift it would be even easier. It fits now but its not going to flex up enough yet. First I hammered the pan. Got quite a bit. Fits side to side. Next was the corner and bolt. Ground it halfway down took out the corner a little. Fits and spins. Next i'm going to replace the bolt with a screw with a low profile phillips head to make future pan work possible. I'm also going to slide my tranny mount over an inch as it seems It needs to go over an inch anyway and it will give me added clearance around the cv. Finally the 1310 is getting a shave. Just my luck the fattest part of the cv lines up perfectly with the bolt. This is the beefiest part of the whole deal and taking an 1/8th even 3/16s really won't weeken it as it is defiantly not the part that would fail.

Cut and turn would be a big no no if you want to run a cv in this application and i'm glad I didn't do it at this point. The bottom angle is 4 degrees so not to bad at all as it is. I might add a cv on the bottom as well though to shorten up the shaft and increase the angle of the driveshaft. This sounds crazy but a high angle 1310 flexes a rediculous amount compared to the stock shaft. I will have no binding problems whatsoever. Increasing the angle would lower the cv in relationship to my tranny pan and that would let me flex farther up. Anyway update tommorrow again after more surgery.

 

[Kurtis]

It now clears!!!. It took a little work but it fits and clears even stuffing the tires. What I did.

1. clearanced the pan as much as possible for the last 3 inches.
2. Ground the back of the transmission pan flat andover about an 1/8 inch towwards last bolt. I even took a little out of the tranny. Not much but a little just to be safe.
3. I then replaced the corner bolt with an allen head bolt that is super low profile.
4. At this point it clears but i'm going to take just a little bit out of the cv itself to be extra safe. It really only is close at the 3rd joint from the end. So along those sides I will take about an 1/8th off. Thats already a beefy part of the cv so it will be fine.
5. When I get the valve body work done i'm going to see if I can clearance the part in the back corner of the valve body and move the pan over even another 1/8th just for the heck of it.

But it works and is badass. I'll snap a couple pictures of the madness if anyone else has to tackle this.

 

[orangefj45]

everybody calm down!


you guys all have your panties in a bunch over an issue that only affects very few conversions on here. how many people will actually drive their rigs at speeds over 20mph in 4wd?! barely anybody ............

sure, if you're gonna drive in the snow, then you'll want a front driveline that does'nt vibrate. but for wheeling rigs, there's really no need to run a cv on the front shaft. sure, the geometry won't be optimal ( cnt or not ) but it's going to work great for anything but higher speeds.


if you do have to run a cv, then you have to go thru the steps taken by kurtis and it can be a little frustrating. but it's do-able and it's not rocket science. a little grinding here, a little "massaging" there and you can make it work. don't let e small issue like this deter you from the geartrain you want to run. make stuff work.

flame-suit on.

 

[muddogbob]

Would using a Toybox to adapt the tran/splitcase solve the problem? I remember reading the the Klune-V unit pushed the CV far back enough to clear the trans pan. I think the Klune is 6.5" long. How long is the Toybox? If we're going to spend $800 for an 'akward' outsourced adapter, why not spend a little more for a US build cralwer box to adapt the two, especially if it solves the No-CV/clearancing issue? What do you guys think?

 

[orangefj45]

Would using a Toybox to adapt the tran/splitcase solve the problem? I remember reading the the Klune-V unit pushed the CV far back enough to clear the trans pan. I think the Klune is 6.5" long. How long is the Toybox? If we're going to spend $800 for an 'akward' outsourced adapter, why not spend a little more for a US build cralwer box to adapt the two, especially if it solves the No-CV/clearancing issue? What do you guys think?

Huh?!!? By the time you buy a doubler and the proper Adapters, you'll have $2k invested. The AA adapter is $700 retail

 

[Mace]

Stock mini 2 piece rear shaft ~ $40
$200 to have it massaged into the proper length
Whatever pillow block bearing you want to use (cast or air ride's pretty AL unit)

I have slight vibrations at 60.. Nothing that is gonna tear up the tcase..

BTW, I have two, two piece front Driveshafts. one on the 40 and one on the 60. Both were necessary, and both work flawlessly..

 

[muddogbob]

Huh?!!? By the time you buy a doubler and the proper Adapters, you'll have $2k invested. The AA adapter is $700 retail

I was thinking one could have a Toybox rolling for under $1700.