4pin trailer wiring problem

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J

jeetS

10 Year
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Threads
13
Messages
198
Location
Mission, BC
Hi all,

2000 LC

My factory 4 pin trailer wiring doesn't work... Where should I look besides inspecting the visible parts of the harness for damage?

Where does the signal come from in the factory setup?

I've seen lots of info on adding a trailer brake controller and harness but not much on the factory 4 pin wiring.


I'm used to working on 80's yotasand am not familiar with these newer ones and my 2volume FSM doesn't have the wiring info on this...

Really appreciate any input
 
bctlex said:
Maybe similar problem to this?

2000 LX470 Trailer Harness Replacement
Click to expand...

Yup, as bctlex said above. Solved my harness problem on my 2000 LC. Mine had not completely failed but only running lights worked. I did not have operating turn signals or brake lights. I replaced the controller and everything worked again.
 
jeetS said:
Thanks guys

Just ordered this on Amazon.

Amazon.com: Hopkins 48845 12" Tail Light Converter: Automotive

Hopefully solves the problem. Looks like I just cut the factory one out from behind the taillight and splice this in.
Click to expand...
You will also likely have to run a fused 12v from the battery to the controller as well. Looks like that's likely the red wire on that one. Not familiar with that model, but pretty much anything has to be better than the sheet (and the redesigned sheet) that Toyota made. They didn't get it "right" until '03+.
 
Just posted this on the LX thread linked above...

I had two dealer-installed controllers fail on me before installing the etrailer 118365. 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser Trailer Wiring | etrailer.com

It's completely plug'n'play and has worked flawlessly for the past 3 years.

Dean
 
I replaced the Toyota controller with etrailer 118365 yesterday. It is plug and play to the existing plug - no splicing at all.
 
jeetS said:
Wouldn't there be 12v there in the factory sheet?
Click to expand...

No need to run any additional wires. Everything you need is right there. Just splice in a new controller and then go tow something. If you are running new wires, it's either you bought the wrong controller or it's because you have an issue besides the controller. The OEM Toyota controllers are weak and have a fairly high failure rate. The good part is a clean swap for an after market one can be done for around $30.
 
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