I have an 87fj60 that goes from 4Low to 2Low--my understanding is that this is a jerry-rigged modification. True? The problem is that it can slip with a bang from 4low to 2low--and I CAN'T have this happen. How do I remove the 2Low option? Or prevent it from slipping? Looking underneath, I can't see any 'modifications.' What am I up against?
4Low to 2Low? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Polar_Pile
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Why do you think it is going into 2 wheel low? Does the transfer case slip out of low?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=37444
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=37444
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- Thread starter
- #3
It does NOT slip out of low range, but slips out of 4Low to 2Low. Since I'm very worried about ruining the transmission, it has only happened once. I now purposefully put it in 2Low, or if I need 4Low, I have to manually hold it in place with a little bit of pressure on the shifter.
loeky
SILVER Star
you say it's an 87, but i don't get how a manual would slip from 4Low to 2Low. my truck doesn't have 2Low as far as i know? do you mean it's slipping from 4WH to 2WH?
if the latter, then you could try reading this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=42880&highlight=slipping
if the latter, then you could try reading this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=42880&highlight=slipping
by removing the shift gate on the 4wd shifter you can get 2 low
Typically there is not a problem with this. I did that mod and loved it. If you are experiencing an issue with it I would look at a potentially mis adjusted 2wd/4wd linkage or your tcase is in need of a rebuild
Typically there is not a problem with this. I did that mod and loved it. If you are experiencing an issue with it I would look at a potentially mis adjusted 2wd/4wd linkage or your tcase is in need of a rebuild
Mace said:
Thanks for that, I am hoping to do my SM465 swap sometime before next summer, would love to have 2Low, wasnt sure if I could with my 84s split case.
My cruiser does that and it can be quite dangerous. If you are going up a steep and tricky section of track and it slips from 4WD low into 2WD then unexpectantly you can lose traction. I have a front locker and when it slips into 2WD then I go from a 3 wheel traction to 1 wheel traction. You can imaging that if you are going up a rather narrow, steep and rugged section of track then it can become a little too scary. There is a metal bracket between the gearbox and the transfer case that guides the TC shifter and prevents it from going into 2WD low. Apparently this bracket can move on it's mounting bolts and will no longer keep the selector in 4WD low. I currently have my transfer case disassembled and I'm not too impressed with the strength of the 2WD/4WD selection cogs (?), so I want mine to engage into 4WD fully (once it has been rebuilt).
Checking the 2WD/4WD selector detent springs will help as would making sure that the transfer levers' gearshift boot hasn't gone hard.
Checking the 2WD/4WD selector detent springs will help as would making sure that the transfer levers' gearshift boot hasn't gone hard.
But the bracket is designed by Toyota engineers for that purpose!
I habe 2lo mod..use it all the time. you can have my shift gate if need be.
RoddQLD said:
LOL, there is a lot of things designed by Toyota enineers for certain purposes that we undo, modify or whatever....
I like the idea of having 2L. I could go from 4L to 2L if I have an auto locker in the front and I need to turn. Or when in 2H and I need just a little more grunt but not 4 anything I can just flip it to 2L
Neat!
I can see times when it would be handy, but for some in some situations it can be dangerous.
I already have my own bracket and I won't be taking it off. If I need 2WD low then obviously it's only going to be used for low speed situations and for very short periods. For my puposes (If I ever need to use it) I simply select 4WD low and don't engage the hubs. But I haven't really needed 2WD low for anything, and it is a pain to not be able to rely on it staying in 4WD low when you want it.
I'm just a bit wary of blanket statements!
Also, I wasn't implying that you don't modify your 4WD if you think it necessary. I was just making the point that the bracket WAS necesary for keeping the it in 4WD because that what it was specifically designed for!
I already have my own bracket and I won't be taking it off. If I need 2WD low then obviously it's only going to be used for low speed situations and for very short periods. For my puposes (If I ever need to use it) I simply select 4WD low and don't engage the hubs. But I haven't really needed 2WD low for anything, and it is a pain to not be able to rely on it staying in 4WD low when you want it.
I'm just a bit wary of blanket statements!
Also, I wasn't implying that you don't modify your 4WD if you think it necessary. I was just making the point that the bracket WAS necesary for keeping the it in 4WD because that what it was specifically designed for!
No, the bracket was designed to keep you from putting the Truck in 2WD low because Toyota did not think that anyone would want to. It is not designed to keep the tcase in 4wd low.RoddQLD said:
Additionally, they probably did not want John Q public getting confused because their truck was in 2wd low and the front tires weren't spinning.
One of the main reasons I can honestly say this is because there are actually two parts of the shift linkage. One part controls the high/low portion and the other controls the 2wd/4wd portion. So basically, if it is popping out of 4wd low to 2wd low than it shoudl pop out of 4wd into 2wd as well.
You catching what I am throwing here???
Now that's trying to be picky! You believe what you want to believe.
I know how it works and mine doesn't pop out of 4WD high into 2WD high!! Only 4WD low to 2WD low!!!
There has also been remedies posted on this forum about the gear selector rubber getting too firm (and causing the selector not to want to stay in low), so it doesn't necessarily just rely on the detent springs. A detent spring will also not stop you from bumping it into 2WD low with your knee, but a correctly positioned guide bracket most probably will.
Another simple fix that I read about on here was to move the T/C bracket back into it's correct position which cured that persons problem.
I know how it works and mine doesn't pop out of 4WD high into 2WD high!! Only 4WD low to 2WD low!!!
There has also been remedies posted on this forum about the gear selector rubber getting too firm (and causing the selector not to want to stay in low), so it doesn't necessarily just rely on the detent springs. A detent spring will also not stop you from bumping it into 2WD low with your knee, but a correctly positioned guide bracket most probably will.
Another simple fix that I read about on here was to move the T/C bracket back into it's correct position which cured that persons problem.
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by not engaging the hubs, you risk damaging your front end...when the front hubs are engaged, the axles help spin fluid up to the pinion bearing. that does not happen when they are unlocked, but the front driveshaft still spins the pinion, which causes heat at the pinion bearing.RoddQLD said:
i have never had an issue with removing the gate in my 60. only thing i can forsee is a passenger bumping it with their leg, which happens in my 40s but has never happened in my 60. if you dont think no cage is safe, just modify your cage...many people do that.
Why is 2low necessary at all? And to get this just pop up the boot and remove the plate?
nuclearlemon said:
The axles still spin if the hubs are unlocked, but as I said above I would expect there to only be low speed and short duration use anyway. If you said that you risk damaging the splines in the hubs I would have thought that it may be possible.
I have had an issue with the t/c popping out of 4WD and it is quite dangerous. For me it is a safety concern.
polar-pile
i can think of two things that would cause these symtoms:
1: your shift linkage has gotten bent/worn to the point that it no longer engages fully, and extreme/ sudden loads cause the locking coller to disengage. inspect your linkage for interferance/ complete throw.
2: your shift fork or locking coller or output shaft is worn enough to produce the same symtoms. rebuild the front drive as nessessary.should beposible w/o removing the t-case, but if that part is that worn...
most likely a combination of 1&2, problem 1 will lead to problem 2
i recomend a rebuild, good luck, carl
i can think of two things that would cause these symtoms:
1: your shift linkage has gotten bent/worn to the point that it no longer engages fully, and extreme/ sudden loads cause the locking coller to disengage. inspect your linkage for interferance/ complete throw.
2: your shift fork or locking coller or output shaft is worn enough to produce the same symtoms. rebuild the front drive as nessessary.should beposible w/o removing the t-case, but if that part is that worn...
most likely a combination of 1&2, problem 1 will lead to problem 2
i recomend a rebuild, good luck, carl
- Thread starter
- #19
Thanks for everybody's responses. Since I'm an amateur mechanic, I could use some help with the following--if someone would be willing to spend a minute typing...:
1. What and where is the pinion that is mentioned in one of the responses that can go bad by running in low range without having the hubs locked?
2. The 'plate' that has been discussed quite thoroughly goes where? Is it something that blocks the shifter from going to 2Low or does it go somewhere in/by the tcase? Could somebody please describe?
3. And finally, the response immediately prior to this one mentions doing something that doesn't involve rebuilding my tcase. Can someone go into a bit more detail here?
Again, thanks again for all of your input--it is much appreciated.
1. What and where is the pinion that is mentioned in one of the responses that can go bad by running in low range without having the hubs locked?
2. The 'plate' that has been discussed quite thoroughly goes where? Is it something that blocks the shifter from going to 2Low or does it go somewhere in/by the tcase? Could somebody please describe?
3. And finally, the response immediately prior to this one mentions doing something that doesn't involve rebuilding my tcase. Can someone go into a bit more detail here?
Again, thanks again for all of your input--it is much appreciated.
Polar
1. Pinion is in the axle houseing....it in effect is a vital part of the differential
2. On top of the transfer case (under the truck body) there are two linkages connected to the shifter inside truck. On the high/low linkage, there is a plate (I guess you could say it may be similar to a standard ferrari where the movement of the shifter is cut into plastic so that there is no left-right movement of the shifter). That plate does the same thing, restrict sideways movement b/c that movement engage/disengages high/low. You may be able to get at it from under the truck but I don't have my truck here to say for sure.
3. Better leave that for a seasoned mudder
Cheeres
Geoff
1. Pinion is in the axle houseing....it in effect is a vital part of the differential
2. On top of the transfer case (under the truck body) there are two linkages connected to the shifter inside truck. On the high/low linkage, there is a plate (I guess you could say it may be similar to a standard ferrari where the movement of the shifter is cut into plastic so that there is no left-right movement of the shifter). That plate does the same thing, restrict sideways movement b/c that movement engage/disengages high/low. You may be able to get at it from under the truck but I don't have my truck here to say for sure.
3. Better leave that for a seasoned mudder
Cheeres
Geoff
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