47070-60010 brake booster and accumulator refresh (1 Viewer)

[medtro]

I was selected by City Racer (@Racer65) to participate in final testing of their new product 47070-60010, brake booster and accumulator. Product was nicely packaged and boxed. It arrived with no damage. I installed it to my 2004 UZJ100 with 185k miles, along with a few other Toyota parts. Parts I used in this refresh job are:

1. City Racer 47070-60010, brake booster and accumulator
2. Toyota master cylinder rebuild kit 04493-60330
3. Toyota brake fluid reservoir grommets

• 47225-16010 x 2
• 31417-35010 x 1

4. Toyota brake actuator hose 44571-60010
5. Brake fluid

I used FSM and this thread Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/master-cylinder-rebuild-diy.406533/ for brake master assembly removal, brake master cylinder rebuild and bleeding.

Installation of 47070-60010 is easy and straight forward. 3 bolts to mount it to the master assembly, then 2 small bolts for the wires connection. There is no surprise. I put some dielectric grease to cover the 2 bolts for wires connection, I also applied dielectric grease around the rubber boot to seal it from any fluid getting in there. I am considering using butyl to seal the boot now. Motor runs for 35 seconds when accumulator is emptied, this is within the 40 seconds specified in the FSM by Toyota. Brake is more responsive with the above new parts and brake fluid flushed. I didn't have any problem with my brake system before but I didn't know my brake can be this responsive.

 

[medtro]

I broke this clip which holds brake lines to the accumulator ring.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

47070-60010, brake booster and accumulator

Isn’t that just the motor and accumulator, not the “booster”?

What’s the cost compared to new OEM ($700-800)?

 

[medtro]

Isn’t that just the motor and accumulator, not the “booster”?

What’s the cost compared to new OEM ($700-800)?

It consists of electric motor, pump and accumulator. @Racer65 please correct me if I am wrong.

Toyota web site calls it Power Brake Booster. Other Names: Motor & Pump, Pump Assembly, Actuator Pump, Pump Assembly Brake Boo

Stay tune on their web site for availability and pricing

 

[IndroCruise]

Isn’t that just the motor and accumulator, not the “booster”?

What’s the cost compared to new OEM ($700-800)?

Might depend on what word is being used to describe what. The stored accumulator pressure built up by the pump compressing nitrogen on the gas side of the accumulator piston is used to "boost" brake hydraulic pressure. The attached exploded components diagram and descriptive attachments may help. Extracts taken from FSM for LC100, likely to be the same in LX470.

 

[danimal24]

Any clue on brand of the pump and accumulator sold by City Racer?? In the market for one...at 285k miles on my original...trying to get ahead on potential failure.
Thanks

 

[LX470YYC]

Hey @medtro - how's this held up for you? Tore mine apart today.

 

[medtro]

Hey @medtro - how's this held up for you? Tore mine apart today.

Brake is working fine but the vehicle has not been driven much.

 

[2001LC]

I was selected by City Racer (@Racer65) to participate in final testing of their new product 47070-60010, brake booster and accumulator. Product was nicely packaged and boxed. It arrived with no damage. I installed it to my 2004 UZJ100 with 185k miles, along with a few other Toyota parts. Parts I used in this refresh job are:

1. City Racer 47070-60010, brake booster and accumulator
2. Toyota master cylinder rebuild kit 04493-60330
3. Toyota brake fluid reservoir grommets

• 47225-16010 x 2
• 31417-35010 x 1

4. Toyota brake actuator hose 44571-60010
5. Brake fluid

I used FSM and this thread Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/master-cylinder-rebuild-diy.406533/ for brake master assembly removal, brake master cylinder rebuild and bleeding.

Installation of 47070-60010 is easy and straight forward. 3 bolts to mount it to the master assembly, then 2 small bolts for the wires connection. There is no surprise. I put some dielectric grease to cover the 2 bolts for wires connection, I also applied dielectric grease around the rubber boot to seal it from any fluid getting in there. I am considering using butyl to seal the boot now. Motor runs for 35 seconds when accumulator is emptied, this is within the 40 seconds specified in the FSM by Toyota. Brake is more responsive with the above new parts and brake fluid flushed. I didn't have any problem with my brake system before but I didn't know my brake can be this responsive.

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I'm surprised you booster run time to charge a fully discharge accumulator, wasn't lower. What was your battery voltage?

With new OEM brake booster/master (the whole brake master) I get ~28 seconds using Toyota brake fluid, with battery at ~12.5-7 Volts. I'll typically only need to pump brake pedal about 25 pumps, to evacuate accumulator.

Perhaps your battery voltage was near 12.2 Volts?

I can't see in your pictures, bottom of pump/motor. Is there both a weep hole for pump and a breather for motor?

In picture below. We see the intake air vent of an old factory motor, is clogged. In this motors vacuum, created by high RPMs. Sucked fluid from pump, due to clog in motors intake air vent. Fluid entering motor, reducing its excepted life. This was on a 100 series, with missing inner fender mud skits. Full length mud skirts, would have help to prevent excessive debris from entering engine bay. Thus reducing chances of clogging booster motor air vent.

 

[medtro]

I'm surprised you booster run time to charge a fully discharge accumulator, wasn't lower. What was your battery voltage?

With new OEM brake booster/master (the whole brake master) I get ~28 seconds using Toyota brake fluid, with battery at ~12.5-7 Volts. I'll typically only need to pump brake pedal about 25 pumps, to evacuate accumulator.

Perhaps your battery voltage was near 12.2 Volts?

I can't see in your pictures, bottom of pump/motor. Is there both a weep hole for pump and a breather for motor?

In picture below. We see the intake air vent of an old factory motor, is clogged. In this motors vacuum, created by high RPMs. Sucked fluid from pump, due to clog in motors intake air vent. Fluid entering motor, reducing its excepted life. This was on a 100 series, with missing inner fender mud skits. Full length mud skirts, would have help to prevent excessive debris from entering engine bay. Thus reducing chances of clogging booster motor air vent.

All good questions unfortunately I don't have any answer since this was done over 3 years ago.