450 Rear Frame Rail/Crossmember Chop

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Delancy

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I'll preface with uncertainty as to wether or not this thread belongs here, but a few posts on others prompted no replies, so posing to y'all.

Looking for general input about chopping the rear frame rails and cross member behind the wheel well, tapering to the new rear crossmember at near the same angle as the OEM fender.



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Require fabbing new body mounts, but short of that, there's no other structural attachments I can see.

A preliminary consideration, and I have little knowledge of frame flex, forces, or material properties to use, reason for query.
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Didn't you just buy, and travel to AR to get a bumper?
 
Layonnn said:
Didn't you just buy, and travel to AR to get a bumper?

Did you think this to be any less arduous and painstaking than the previous "build"?

I'm waiting on the slow boat from down under, and the longer this sits in the driveway in anticipation, the more the plans change.
 
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Arya Ebrahimi said:

Perfect. Thanks.

I hadn't given much consideration to chopping the body, note tapering the rear frame rails and a new crossmember to whatever thickness the ends of the rail wound up.

Have been laying out a rear mounted sway bar that I'd considered mounting on the bottom of the frame rail. Considering the suggestions on the other thread, going to look into the difficulty of running a thicker housing through the frame rails, and attaching to the inner and outer points.

Jury's out on this one, since I'm only capable of speculating the issues with extending the linkages on the OEM sway.

Can only imagine what transpired on the thread for it to be locked, considering all evidence has been removed.

Thanks again.
 
Perfect. Thanks.

I hadn't given much consideration to chopping the body, note tapering the rear frame rails and a new crossmember to whatever thickness the ends of the rail wound up.

Have been laying out a rear mounted sway bar that I'd considered mounting on the bottom of the frame rail. Considering the suggestions on the other thread, going to look into the difficulty of running a thicker housing through the frame rails, and attaching to the inner and outer points.

Jury's out on this one, since I'm only capable of speculating the issues with extending the linkages on the OEM sway.

Can only imagine what transpired on the thread for it to be locked, considering all evidence has been removed.

Thanks again.

I'm pretty sure older, dormant threads are locked at some point. I was reading a thread on a 2UZ swap into an 80 that was also locked without any signs of discord.

I think tapering the frame is an excellent idea. It serves no structural purpose from a suspension standpoint and slid off of obstacles would be a breeze.

bend up a piece of .188 wall 2 inch DOM and throw it on the back and call it good, you could easily build a swing down tire carrier from that.
 
Makes perfect sense on locking. Keeps 6 year old threads from bumps.

I'm not seeing any structural support offered from the frame rails, short of the body mount bracket, which could remain and be gusseted, or new fabbed.

I was starting to think about boxing the frame rails, using the sway bar housing as the crossmember, welding recovery tabs inside the cut rear rails.

Then building a bumper out of 1/8", and reinforcing with substructure. At the wings go 3/16 with a tie back to the frame where I'll be cutting the rear fender, if it cuts, and tie into the lower, tapered rails.

I've no need for swing out, or swing down, since the goal is to keep it lean.

All this sounded like a really good idea, until I was rear ended in the FJC by a BMW a few hours ago.



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Considering the difference in the height of the FJC and the estimated height of the LX with the 4" slinkies, he might've just wound up bouncing off the tires, but I guess I've little option but to consider this as a potential occurrence.
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