4-link FJ60

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Just thought I'd throw out a friendly reminder that most places have no problem giving out free advise. Call up some reputable company and talk with them and see what they have to say.
 
Just thought I'd throw out a friendly reminder that most places have no problem giving out free advise. Call up some reputable company and talk with them and see what they have to say.

Thats exactly what I've been doing. :cheers:
 
Last edited:
Awesome. Glad to see someone else not scared to call the manufacturers when it comes to these types of situations.
 
OK, things are coming along, slowly. I do however have a question; the 60 has a 5.7 350 under the hood followed be a 4l60e tranny. Since Im putting 80 axles under it which have 4.11 diffs, my RPMs will jump up and I really don't want that. What are my options to get my RPMs back down for better highway cruising? :cheers:

Ill try and post some pics tomorrow.:)
 
You already have an OD. You will be fine..
 
How does the 80 series unlocked rear diff compare to the 60 rear diff? I was under the impression that the rear diff was as strong if not stronger than the 60 diffs? And with a little modification can be very strong with an ARB? I know about the poor design of the OEM 80 series lockers, the ones in my FZJ are not very reliable.


Based on how the locker works, using a rear 3
rd in the front housing of your 60 would run the same risk. That's a guess, though, and Christo Slee would have a better answer. I'd run ARBs, which do not have this issue.
 
80 series rear diff is about the same strength as a 60 series diff..
 
4.11 and anything over 33" tires will be great. even more so with a OD..

In fact, you would probably be better off with a higher numerical gearset
 
4.11 and anything over 33" tires will be great. even more so with a OD..

In fact, you would probably be better off with a higher numerical gearset

Well the reason Im asking is because before the axle swap I was running 35"s, 4l60e, and even then felt that my highway RPMs could have been a little lower.
 
what were the #'s??

The 4l60E has a .70 overdrive.

With stock 3.70's and 35's you would be turning 1750ish rpm at 70mph..

I am thinking you have different gears in the pumpkins...
 
You ever hear it hit OD?
 
What is your axle ratio?

If you are turning those #'s at 65 your axle ratio would have to be 5.13's or higher if you are hitting OD


A. You are not getting into Overdrive.
B. You have a very high numerical axle ratio
C. Your tach is set incorrectly (4 cylinder instead of 8)
 
What is your axle ratio?

If you are turning those #'s at 65 your axle ratio would have to be 5.13's or higher if you are hitting OD


A. You are not getting into Overdrive.
B. You have a very high numerical axle ratio
C. Your tach is set incorrectly (4 cylinder instead of 8)

D. You are running 29" tyres.

The 4L60e has a very low first gear (for an auto), and a really tall OD. You shouldnt be anywhere near those RPM's with stock gearing...
 
Maybe my tach is off? I guess ill make sure that is working correctly then decide if i need gears.
 
I put a 4 link in my 60 and I don't regret it. It has an air suspension and kony shocks. The car handles very smooth on the road and I can drive on 60mph with with no problems. The entire setup is build by me. I think its better just to do it your self, but only if you know if you're doing ;) . I would with no doubt put 4 link under my next rig. Hey Mace, When my 60 is doing 55 mph in the OD the engine is running on 1600 rpm. I'm running on 5.38, should I go lover when I put my dana 60 axles under?? (Sorry about the off topic)

Here are some pics of my link setup Mor4wd
PictureTrail - Online Photo Sharing, Personal Homepages, Slideshows, Image Hosting
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom