4.56 Gear Install Trouble. Pinion Preload??

[Suprunner]

Hi,

I'm currently trying to install 8" Nitro 4.56 gears into my 3rd members. I have a V6 E-locker from a 2000 4Runner in the rear, and an Aussie locker in the front (front is a 4cyl 3rd member). The 4.88 gears that were in the V6 3rd member were not set up correctly, and had seen some very, VERY hard use. There was evidence of cracks in the Pinion teeth. . . I bought a setup kit with my gears as well. I am very close to finishing the V6 3rd member, but I'm not sure if I've done something wrong. I'm currently trying to set the preload on the pinion bearings. . . I set both bearing races, checked the pattern and backlash, pressed on the inner P-Bearing (with shim installed),put on the crush sleeve, installed the pinion seal. . . I'm trying to set the crush sleeve, but I'm not sure if everything that I'm doing is correct. I have the nut as tight as I can possibly get it, and there isn't a decrease in effort. . Do I keep going? The drive flange seated straight on the splines, but part of it looks crooked. . . Do I need to take the nut off, and start all over?

Any insight would be great.

 

[Richmondo]

Sounds like you need to keep going. I ran into the same problem setting up my gears. I was afraid I had completely crushed the crush sleeve so I pulled it all apart and the crush sleeve hadn't moved at all. So keep going. I personally gave up on the crush sleeve and went with solid collars. You should know when the sleeve crushes as the effort needed to turn the nut should decrease a good amount.

That first pic looks extremely deceiving. Honestly it looks like the dust shield is just crooked but it couldn't hurt to pull it apart and check s*** out.

 

[Suprunner]

Sounds like you need to keep going. I ran into the same problem setting up my gears. I was afraid I had completely crushed the crush sleeve so I pulled it all apart and the crush sleeve hadn't moved at all. So keep going. I personally gave up on the crush sleeve and went with solid collars. You should know when the sleeve crushes as the effort needed to turn the nut should decrease a good amount.

That first pic looks extremely deceiving. Honestly it looks like the dust shield is just crooked but it couldn't hurt to pull it apart and check s*** out.

I forgot to mention that the drive flange is no longer moveable. Everything is so tight. . . Will things loosen up a bit after the sleeve has been crushed?

Thanks for the input!

Greg

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

You over crushed the crush sleeve... You will need a new one. Your dust shield is bent. Tap on it and it may straighten assuming it is just cocked

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I'd pull the nut off and check the crush sleeve to see if it's been crushed or not. How does the pinion turn? Any play?

Check out gearinstalls.com Zuk usually starts the crush sleeve off by putting it in a press and getting it to crush just a little before installing it as using the nut can be a tough way to crush it.

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

judging by your pinion threads that are extruding from the nut you are right at the spot. I am guessing by you saying that the flange will no longer move you meant it will no longer turn... If so you over crushed the sleeve. If you are referring to pinion slop or flange slop then keep turning. I know it drove me nuts trying to crush a sleeve back in the day I had a huge cheater bar. Now I use solid collars but you need a pile of shims to get it right.

 

[Richmondo]

judging by your pinion threads that are extruding from the nut you are right at the spot. I am guessing by you saying that the flange will no longer move you meant it will no longer turn... If so you over crushed the sleeve. If you are referring to pinion slop or flange slop then keep turning. I know it drove me nuts trying to crush a sleeve back in the day I had a huge cheater bar. Now I use solid collars but you need a pile of shims to get it right.

When I set up my diff I want to say the nut was in about the same position and I couldn't move the pinion either. It's like it was right on the verge of crushing but I just couldn't it over the hump. I pulled it apart and put calipers on the one I pulled out and the one that was going in the front diff. They measured out to the same size. So I'd say it could go either way but regardless pulling apart and seeing what's going on will be your best bet.

A solid collar is definitely worth it as far as I'm concerned. I don't know how much I buy into the extra strength argument but to me it was just easier. I honestly would rather add/subtract shims than fight the damn sleeve trying to get it to crush or worry about over crushing it

 

[H8PVMNT]

Solid spacer sleaves are the only way to go...