3rd World buying help!

[peripatew]

Greetings! I posted a week or so back in the 80 forum for some info, but have since decided to look for a 100 series first. The price jumps here in a major way once you hit year 2000, so I'm looking at 98-99. I'm more interested in lockers than ATRAC/VSC, though I'd take either if price wasn't a big factor.

Used 98-99's go for $16-19k, and if it's the turbo diesel, they are $22-27k. Import tax here is nuts! I'm fine with either engine, but I'm basically limited to the gas V8 for budget reasons.

I've read over slee's guide, and I've spent faaaaar to much time on the forum. But I'm essentially selected the best lemon over here, as hardly anything is maintained well, workmanship is shoddy, and parts are cheap knockoffs.

All of them will be over 200k miles as well.

Our family works for an anti-human trafficking non-profit, so we'll be making frequent trips out into very remote areas via some brutal (but fun!) roads. I will be hunting for a while to find a 100 in the best possible shape, but I know there will be a lot of work that needs to be done.

So! Three questions:

What are the top 5 things to look for that are "run away fast"? On my list so far: engine, tranny, frame swaps and electric rats nests

I have to import all of my replacement parts that I'm not salvaging from other vehicles. So what should be on my list for a pretty thorough baseline? What would you want changed for peace of mind and general PO? Timing belt, pump, plugs and wires, flush all fluids, and?

What spare parts would you consider essential to have with you? It takes about a month to get new parts, 2 weeks if I want to pay and arm and a leg. So I want to get things before I need them (within reason).

I won't be wheeling hard, but even good roads here are pretty rough, out of the city most are dirt and turn to magic mud when it rains.

If you are curious, mod wise I'm planning on simple things. New tires, full roof rack, and possibly sliders to start with. Once I decide if I will get full bumpers and winch, I'll choose my suspension. Ironman is easy to get, but OME isn't toooo difficult from a neighboring country.

And I settled on the 100 as its a bit newer, and here than means people have taken better care of them than the older body style. Usually that's just cosmetic care, but it's a better lottery to play I think. The paved roads are also really brutal, so I'm looking forward to a more comfortable ride (1 gen Tacoma currently). I've had numerous abdominal surgeries, so short trips can wear me out.

Thanks for any and all help! If there's an older thread that you think is helpful please post it up!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

There's a really good thread on essential parts to take on the trail as well as one on "I have a new truck what should I baseline?", search for those. If you're going 98/99 and going to be back country/mud, I'd put a front locker high on your list. As for what to walk away from, list in the US is probably going to be different - rust, salvage, mechanical issues maybe.

 

[arcteryx]

Second the front locker, especially if you are remote. The 98/99 had a weak front diff and there are stories about them breaking very easily with no wheeling really. It changed in 2000, so factor that in your budget when looking to see if a 2000 is within reach.

 

[Sandroad]

Is there any chance you could find someone near you familiar with the 100 series to help with inspection when you find one? Your reading/homework can help, but there's really no substitute for experience when evaluating condition, especially in situations where things may be ad hoc or aftermarket, or "temporary". I wonder too if the VIN checks are available in 3rd world countries like they are here in the U.S. If not, that increases the need to find someone who can help find damage/flood/accident repair evidence. I'm not saying you can't inspect one yourself, but help would be worth a lot!

 

[PADDO]

What's everyone else drive? If logistics and tech support are tough to come by then, to me, it makes sense to buy the most common vehicle platform that's fit for your purpose - Patrol? 70?
Locals mechanics tend to know how to improvise and cannibalize platforms they are familiar with to keep you rolling.

 

[peripatew]

There's a really good thread on essential parts to take on the trail as well as one on "I have a new truck what should I baseline?", search for those. If you're going 98/99 and going to be back country/mud, I'd put a front locker high on your list. As for what to walk away from, list in the US is probably going to be different - rust, salvage, mechanical issues maybe.

Lockers are hiiiigh on my list. But, if I find a great one without, ARB is an option, but that would be a lot of my budget.

Thanks for the search tips.

 

[peripatew]

Second the front locker, especially if you are remote. The 98/99 had a weak front diff and there are stories about them breaking very easily with no wheeling really. It changed in 2000, so factor that in your budget when looking to see if a 2000 is within reach.

Good point on the front diff. I posted about that specifically a few days ago, and I think swapping to a 4 pinion is relatively simple to do... But maybe not if I have the factory locker? Or does having the factory locker make the 2 pinion front stronger?

 

[peripatew]

Is there any chance you could find someone near you familiar with the 100 series to help with inspection when you find one? Your reading/homework can help, but there's really no substitute for experience when evaluating condition, especially in situations where things may be ad hoc or aftermarket, or "temporary". I wonder too if the VIN checks are available in 3rd world countries like they are here in the U.S. If not, that increases the need to find someone who can help find damage/flood/accident repair evidence. I'm not saying you can't inspect one yourself, but help would be worth a lot!

Definitely a good point. I'll have my local mechanic who was a rockstar at finding me a good Tacoma. I got that one "off the boat", so I was the first owner. They no longer import pre-2000 vehicles now, so I'll have to be the second owner or more. So it might take a lot longer to hunt for a good one now. I'm ready for a few weeks of it, likely with my mechanic doing the first round.

He's very familiar with the "local" ways of "fixing" things.

 

[peripatew]

What's everyone else drive? If logistics and tech support are tough to come by then, to me, it makes sense to buy the most common vehicle platform that's fit for your purpose - Patrol? 70?
Locals mechanics tend to know how to improvise and cannibalize platforms they are familiar with to keep you rolling.

Huuuuuuge amounts of Land Cruisers here. More 100's than 80's now it seems. One of the reasons I want to go Land Cruiser from my Tacoma is for a bit more robustness (as opposed to other SUV's here). Love the Tacoma, but need more room for family and long trips.

 

[PADDO]

Well good luck in your search @peripatew. Sounds like a 100 is the way to go. Working against human traffickers is a noble cause. I spent close to two years whilst in the Service combating human traffickers and am uncomfortably familiar with the misery of their victims. I wish you and your family well.

 

[CharlieS]

I've had several 80s and a 100 series, and if I was in your situation, I'd get an 80. For a place with mostly good road driving the 100 is a peach, and it is pretty capable otherwise. The 80 is a tank, and a whole lot simpler to maintain. It has fewer electric gizmos, and is easy to work on. An 80 with good tires, lockers and a modest lift is a tank.

 

[mcgaskins]

Good point on the front diff. I posted about that specifically a few days ago, and I think swapping to a 4 pinion is relatively simple to do... But maybe not if I have the factory locker? Or does having the factory locker make the 2 pinion front stronger?

Factory locker is in the rear, so it's not related to the front diff weakness at all (I'm speaking to NA vehicles - although I don't believe the 100 had a factory front locker offered anywhere). You would want to add a front ARB locker to replace the theoretically weak factory front diff. I did lots of wheeling in my 100 and never had any issues, but some have broken it in fairly benign circumstances. Being in a remote location with difficult roads, I would say strengthening the front end is a must for safety.

 

[stonepa]

I think folks are overplaying the so-called weak front diff. My experience is that deep mud will do nothing to the diff. The only thing that will break them, in my rather extensive experience driving all over north and South America in my 100, is rock or ledge crawling where you let the front end hop. That will break a lot of diffs. Just driving in deep mud is nothing to a 100.

 

[Lowbudgetlc100]

i would carry at least 2 extra coil packs

 

[peripatew]

I've had several 80s and a 100 series, and if I was in your situation, I'd get an 80. For a place with mostly good road driving the 100 is a peach, and it is pretty capable otherwise. The 80 is a tank, and a whole lot simpler to maintain. It has fewer electric gizmos, and is easy to work on. An 80 with good tires, lockers and a modest lift is a tank.

I've going back and forth in my mind as to which I'll get. An 80/450 goes for around 7-9, turbo diesel for 9-13k. If I could find one that was in reeeeally good shape I'd probably jump on it, but all the ones I've seen so far have had engine swaps which at this point I'm avoiding like the plague.

My Tacoma (2" lift, wheels, and rear locker) has only got stuck once, and that was on an insane road, that we were exploring for fun with a local group of guys. So the roads are terrible, but so far I've been able to handle them without any problems. I might be leaning towards a bit of driving comfort for daily driving. But I figure a 100 with at least a rear locker can "hang with" my Tacoma.