You can short the wires to the EGR temp sensor to defeat code 71. That's how Toyota does it from the factory.
3FE EGR bypass part numbers (for a clean look)
- Thread starter Izeloz
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LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #23
Mine wasn't a California spec truck, so I didn't have to deal with the EGR temp. sensor. No codes in over 1000 miles now. If mine WAS a CA truck, I would probably snip off the plug, solder and shrink wrap the wires together, and tape it into the harness to make it look like it was never there.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Yeah, I'm at about 8k miles and no code. Non Cali spec rig.
This is a 21mm plug guys !!
Freeze Plug - 21mm [90331-21001] - $9.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
Freeze Plug 946779 - Pro Parts - Volvo | Pelican Parts
Freeze Plug (21 mm)
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-555-1...e=UTF8&qid=1472999676&sr=8-1&keywords=555-118
Why can't you order online?
Dorman 555-118 Expansion Plug (Block Parts)
Freeze Plug 946779 - Pro Parts - Volvo | Pelican Parts
Freeze Plug (21 mm)
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-555-1...e=UTF8&qid=1472999676&sr=8-1&keywords=555-118
Why can't you order online?
Dorman 555-118 Expansion Plug (Block Parts)
I guess I'll have to. I just foolishly took my EGR off thinking I could run to any of the 20 parts stores around here and have the holes plugged this weekend.
Well, I did it! Had to drive 30 miles to the M26x1.5 plug, but I got the parts.
I ended up sanding down the opening on the intake as the plug they gave me was a 21.44mm and it wasn't going in. After the sanding it was very smooth.
The exhaust was a different story! Removing the giant nipple (lol) out of the manifold took half the threads with it and galled the **** out of both sides. I had to cut down the first two rows of threads on the plug to make it into an impromptu self-tapping thread. I slathered it with antiseize as a lubricant and managed to screw it in.... with a jack handle on my breaker bar. Not sure how well it will hold up. Either it's going to pop out in a few minutes of driving or stay there until the heat death of the universe. Considering it took probably 150 foot pounds to screw it in I'm hopeful.
I ended up sanding down the opening on the intake as the plug they gave me was a 21.44mm and it wasn't going in. After the sanding it was very smooth.
The exhaust was a different story! Removing the giant nipple (lol) out of the manifold took half the threads with it and galled the **** out of both sides. I had to cut down the first two rows of threads on the plug to make it into an impromptu self-tapping thread. I slathered it with antiseize as a lubricant and managed to screw it in.... with a jack handle on my breaker bar. Not sure how well it will hold up. Either it's going to pop out in a few minutes of driving or stay there until the heat death of the universe. Considering it took probably 150 foot pounds to screw it in I'm hopeful.
After removing the smog pump and rail that feeds into the intake. What did you use to cap those? I think there are two or three?
I have read it's 1/4" NPT, and you can use 4 plugs. Haven't done it myself.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
I didn't use the 1/4" NPT plugs because I thought that was janky. (The truck is japanese donut wouldnuse metric...) I used recessed hex head plugs.
@john schneitman message me you email address and I can send you my write up I did.
What threads on the hex plugs?
Boy oh boy am I scared of doing this.
On the other hand, paying hundreds of dollars to maintain a quarter-century old EGR system with refurb parts is a losing battle.
The one thing that's stopping me is an old cruiser guy telling me that the engine will never run as well as when it's running true to design. Part of me thinks he may not be completely right...
On the other hand, paying hundreds of dollars to maintain a quarter-century old EGR system with refurb parts is a losing battle.
The one thing that's stopping me is an old cruiser guy telling me that the engine will never run as well as when it's running true to design. Part of me thinks he may not be completely right...
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These engines were designed to run with no EGR. The EGR was added later as an emissions concession. There, conscious is clear!
Phew! Now it's research time!
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
I need to make my EGR Delete thread. I spent more time figuring stuff out than actually doing it. It's quite simple really. Intimidating but simple.
My 3FE runs as good as it ever has since I deleted the EGR. I wish I had done it years ago.
I have the write up mostly complete and have it in a word document. I'll try to get it posted in the next day or so.
I basically used Spook's write up but put it in layman's terms.
My 3FE runs as good as it ever has since I deleted the EGR. I wish I had done it years ago.
I have the write up mostly complete and have it in a word document. I'll try to get it posted in the next day or so.
I basically used Spook's write up but put it in layman's terms.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
I filled them with dielectric grease then wrapped them in heavy duty duct tape. Then zip tied them out of the way.
- Thread starter
- #40
I cut two of them off and shrink wrapped the cut ends and taped them into the harness as if they never existed. The third one goes to the fuel pressure regulator and I felt it was important, so I kept it and relocated it to the front of my intake manifold with a homemade aluminum bracket.
