3b with diy turbo. Which engine oil to use? (1 Viewer)

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I'm after installing a garret gt2052 Turbo on my 3b engine. I'm trying to decide two things.

1. Which type of engine oil should I now use given that turbocharged engines in modern cars require fully synthetic low viscosity oil. I was thinking of using Castrol 15w-30 fully synthetic? What if the oil viscosity is too low? Big problems then!!! Anyone have a castrol or similar reference that they know works?

2. How do I ensure that the oil restrictor on the turbo feed line is the right size. As I see it, to small and you stave the turbo of oil. Too big and you flood the turbo with oil damaging seals. You'll also drop the engine oil pressure which is never good. My local motor shop reckons that the holes in the 8mm Banjo ring and bolt into my Turbo offer the correct restriction and nothing else is required? Does that sound right?

Thanks
 
you should be fine with any 15W40 synthetic. Amsoil, Royal purple, Castrol etc.
I've used everything under the sun and had no issues. Some synthetics burn off more than others. I notice with royal purple, I go through around a quart every 3000kms.

For the restriction, if youre using a banjo bolt setup, the hole isn't very big(3-6mm), so you should be fine as long as your pulling your oil from a good source(pressure sender hole or similar) . It's when you run a straight hose fitting/adapter where the hole/I.D. is 10mm into the turbo oil feed hole, that you have to add a restrictor.
 
I and many others run Rotella 15w-40. Don't know where you live and if you are in a cold climate. For where I am Rotella year round. Enjoy the whistling 3B!
 
Like the SSBJ, I use the regular Rotella however I change it more frequently than in my NA 3B. The oil is going through the turbo which gets very hot, much hottr than the block and head. Full synth. might be better.
My NA 3B happens to have Mobile Delvac regular stuff this change as it was what was on sale at crappy tire. I'm not as particular for my old 3B as my built one's. They get fully synthetic gear oil and more frequent crank case oil changes.
That's just me.
 
I have the same turbo and run dino 15w40. No issues so far. I just can't bring myself to put expensive synthetic oil in when it soots up so quick in these old diesels. Just my 0.02.

:beer:
 
If the vehicle is operated in temperatures below freezing, then use synthetic oils and lubricants including brake/clutch fluid.
For engine oil select 5 to 15 low viscosity and 40 to 50 high viscosity.
My truck uses 10w-45 synthetic year-round. Every oil change is analyzed.
Good quality synthetics generally allow extended oil change intervals which makes up for the increased cost.
 
The truck is based in Ireland where we get about 10 to 15 days of sub zero weather a year.

The truck will be mainly garaged. Is there any real need to go fully synthetic?

Also how do you analyse your oil John? Do you just to a visual inspection?
 
I'm after installing a garret gt2052 Turbo on my 3b engine. I'm trying to decide two things.

1. Which type of engine oil should I now use given that turbocharged engines in modern cars require fully synthetic low viscosity oil. I was thinking of using Castrol 15w-30 fully synthetic? What if the oil viscosity is too low? Big problems then!!! Anyone have a castrol or similar reference that they know works?

2. How do I ensure that the oil restrictor on the turbo feed line is the right size. As I see it, to small and you stave the turbo of oil. Too big and you flood the turbo with oil damaging seals. You'll also drop the engine oil pressure which is never good. My local motor shop reckons that the holes in the 8mm Banjo ring and bolt into my Turbo offer the correct restriction and nothing else is required? Does that sound right?

Thanks

If its BB frame you can get a restrictor from Kinugawa that is built into the banjo fitting, I use them on my GTR.
If non BB, the holes in your banjo fitting would suffice.
I have used both ways with success.
 
I like a high ZDDP content (zinc) on flat tappet engines. I swear by Valvoline All Fleet 15w-40 or Rotella 5W-40 T6 for applications that require synthetic. I don't run Rotella 15w -40 in anything anymore. A few years back they changed their formula and its almost as if its "watered down". It burns off much faster then other oils in certain engines. Ford, Mack, Cats have all done this just in my experience. And Iv'e read of others seeing this also.

I don't run syn in my 3B. I just don't push my drain times to long.
 
I don't feel you need synthetic. Also the added benefit also has problems. You will leak more oil from all the seals. Synthetic does that.

I run Rotella 15w40 in a turbo 3B. When I drove mine in the winter I ran Rotella 0W40 which is a full synthetic due to its low temp properties. It made starting easy.

The 15w40 semi synthetic is fine. Its usually well priced the shell rotella too.

Really old 3B cruisers should not be forced to winter solitude anymore though. My 60 gets to spend the winters hibernating now. Its a classic car.
 
Folks,

I completed the turbo installation and used 15w-40 engine oil. So far so good.

I then fired her up to discover it was pumping out dirty smoke. I removed the Banjo bolt, welded up both restriction holes and drilled a new one ~1.5mm in diameter.

I reinstalled everything and started her again. This time the smoke was about 80% less, but still too high.

Should I chance reducing the oil feed line restriction to 1mm?

There is no other restriction on my system, the oil feed comes straight from the factory ports on the block. The turbo is a garret gt2052.

Thanks
 
If it was smoking because the turbo was spewing oil then you likely have a drain restriction or crankcase breather problem.

Once you find and fix the cause of the problem, it will take some time to burn the oil out of the inlet.
 
All you need is a diesel oil which is compatible with a turbocharger. So long as the oil can deal with the heat generated from the turbo all is OK.

You don't need synthetic oil or any other fancy expensive oils. In fact, I'd be reluctant to use synthetics due to the looser tolerances of the 3B. The 3B is not a close tolerance engine like the new cars. It's those close tolerances that need the synthetic oils, not turbochargers.
 
For the restrictor, I was running a -4AN feed (5mm?) for almost 3 years, and I had a small amount if oil residue caked in my 90degree bends when I checked over last weekend. I've since put a rivet in the turbo inlet fitting that sizes it down to 2 or 3mm. That said, ALL turbos pass a small amount of oil into the intake tract. Obviously much less on a new turbo.
 

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